Gyvven

All of the injectors are good, they don't leak, and they do flow nicely. I used my air compressor at 40psi and some sea-foam to test/clean them forwards and backwards. I haven't done any flow testing, but all of these have been in my car at one time or another. (I was troubleshooting a problem and it turned out not to be a fuel problem.)

I'm pretty sure it's 240mm, but I'll double check when I get home. It came from an 88, and I guess I never bothered to check since my manual conversion never took place.

Fedex is $14 to 92316.

I sold my car a couple weeks ago and need to get rid of my spare stuff. I think my prices are fair, but offers are welcome. 5spd Tranny - $100 Torque converter and ring gear - $20 Intake, no ICS, TPS still good - $30 Ex manifold, small crack in #1 - $10 Stock clutch and PP, still has some meat on it - $10 Stock flywheel - $25 Clutch master - $15 Clutch slave - $15 clutch pedal assembly - $20 AC compressor - $25 Complete exhaust, dp to muffler, good shape - $40 Long block; oil pan, block, pistons, reground crank w/ new bearings (still in box), head, valve cover (dis-assembled. I'm willing to sell individual parts if you need them.)- $250 Injectors - (2)L - 580cc black primary - $50 each (1)M - 1080cc green secondary - $65 All prices are OBO, and shipping will be cheap (except for the motor and tranny). I have a few other items but can't think of them right now. Thanks, Jon

Thanks for all of the input Indiana. Your suggestion about the resistor prompted the fix. I checked the resistor last night and found that it was 2.36k ohms. I figured that was probably ok since it read something other that infinity. I then decided to start checking the wires going back to the ecu, and guess what I found... The stupid ecu plug had fallen out, but not so far that you could tell by looking at it. That was it, car's fixed. I just wish I had come across that idea before I swapped in a fuel pump. On the plus side I got a new multimeter and timing light. Thanks for all the help.

So you're saying that because my ecu doesn't think the car is turning over it's not letting the fuel pump turn on? Would this also explain why my tach would occasionally stop working? I'll run out and check it now.

I just ran out and tested the fuel pump check terminal and the pump comes on. Then I found my big green book, that says 1989 Chrysler Conquest on the front, and looked up the fuel pump circuit and it showing me a sub fusible link 2, which I don't have. When I was working on the fusible link for my headlight I mentioned that and was told that the later models didn't have a sub fuse 2, BUT IT'S IN MY BOOK! So now that I know the fuel pump is good, where can I start looking for this problem? Would it be the main eci relay? It makes clicking sounds like it should.

It's an 89. And if the test port works, then what?

Oh, yeah. The fuel gauge is working.

I haven't yet. I do hear a relay over by the passenger kickplate clicking, so I was assuming the relay was good, but I'll try the test connector tonight. I'm guessing that if that doesn't work, then that relay is bad?

I was driving around this past weekend when the did a small stutter and ran a little poorly. I got home and didn't think much of it until I tried starting it the next day and it would start for a second then die. I checked spark, that was fine. I checked everything I could think of and found the fuel pump wasn't coming on. So narrowing it down to that I started checking that, but not having my multimeter on hand I could only make some guesses. I checked all the fuses, they were good. I put in a tested good fuel pump and that wasn't it. I replaced the fusible link that's on the battery with a piece of wire, because it felt like it had a soft spot, and that wasn't it. I should have my multimeter back tonight and will be able to see if I'm getting juice to the pump connector. If I'm not getting signal to the plug what other things can I check?

Did they change the fusible link box for the 89? I don't seem to have the sub-fusible link box and the one I do have has a plug that says "Tail" in the second position looking front to back.

The lights were working fine then one day they decided to take their time turning on, and then the next day decided they weren't coming on at all. They pop up and down just fine, but they won't turn on. Is this a contact issue in the switch? Or is there a switch up by the lights that completes a circuit once the lights are up?

The guy buying the car has requested I leave the flywheel in it.

I have a few extra parts left over from my SQ projects. Willing to ship just about anything to just about anywhere for very reasonable prices. Pics upon request. FMIC - $40 5spd Tranny - $100 Torque converter and ring gear - $20 Intake, no ICS - $30 Ex manifold, small crack in #1 - $10 Stock clutch and PP, still has some meat on it - $10 Stock flywheel (I may swap this back in and sell the aluminum one on the car now if anyone wants it. I think it's Fidanza) - $25 Clutch master - $15 Clutch slave - $15 clutch pedal assembly - $25 AC compressor - $25 Complete exhaust, dp to muffler, good shape - $40 fried 12a turbo, good for rebuild - $25 Long block; oil pan, block, pistons, reground crank w/ new bearings (paid $200, still in box), head, valve cover (dis-assembled, but I can put it back together for you. I was replacing a rod w/ a spun bearing.)- $300 Injectors - (2)L - 580cc black primary - $50 each (1)M - 1080cc green secondary - $65 (4)MDL450, Nippon Denso INP-018 450cc - $100 all (was going to use these in an mx6 intake and fuel rail, also available) All prices are OBO, and shipping will be cheap. I have a few other items but can't think of them right now. Thanks for helping me clean out the garage, Jon

I finally decided to get a photobucket acct. http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z432/Gyvven/DSCN0182.jpg http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z432/Gyvven/DSCN0181.jpg http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z432/Gyvven/driverint.jpg http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z432/Gyvven/interior.jpg http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z432/Gyvven/passint.jpg http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z432/Gyvven/3inexhaust.jpg

The frame rails are rusted, I wouldn't trust a jack on them. But any other rust has been taken care of either by new parts or taking down to bare metal and repainting. The only rust that got bondo'd is in the rear fender wells going into the rocker. the fender itself is good but I replaced the rocker skirts. Other than the frame rails everything else on the underbody is in good shape. I can get pics of the frame rails if it stops raining. should be able to get them by tomorrow.

So, I'm selling my 89 SQ. I decided I needed another project and this one has to go so I can fit the other one in the driveway. I posted it up here: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/1931620509.html Some of you may note that the seats look like they're from an 87, and you're right, but they're clean. Anyway, I'd appreciate it some of you guys would look over my listing, I have a lot of spare parts that I could be talked into selling and pulling out of the CL ad. Let me know if you want anything in the list or want specifics. The parts are kind of scattered across the countryside (parent's house and another buddy's) so be patient if you want photos because I might have to drive 40-50 miles to get it. Thanks guys, Jon

I was trying to find out the same thing last year when I painted mine. I've found that it doesn't really matter if it was base/clear or single stage. What matters is using a good compatible sealer on it before you paint. But definitely give it a good sanding (500 grit or so), poly (for small dings and scratches) and prep (clean, clean, clean, tape, tape, tape). Good prep will keep your paint from peeling more than anything else. DO NOT use lightweight body filler unless you're taking it down to bare metal. USE polyester glazing putty if you're filling scratches or tiny dents.

Here are a couple photos. And it appears I can't upload any more. I do have a few more that highlight the rusty areas. BTW: it has 159,000 miles.

No, it's the 4 lug. The only reason I'm getting rid of it is because I have too many cars as it is. So, no I'm not interested in a trade. Thanks though. I'll get a bunch of pics tomorrow.

No, it doesn't have the digital dash.

I've been sitting on this car for about 9 months. I had planned to turn it into a dedicated track car, so I didn't title it (but I can get one for you if you want). I borrowed the interior to replace the one in my DD that the mice chewed up. So it's missing the carpet, but the seats and stuff are still there. The front fenders are in decent condition, the rear has grind marks from some yahoo trying to take off the paint. Floor pans are a bit rusty at the edges. Auto tranny is in good shape. The car runs and drives, but 2 tires don't hold air very long. The turbo is still good. I know I could get more if I part it out, but I like to see these cars keep going. I have everything needed to do a manual conversion for an extra $175. Includes; clutch, flywheel, clutch pedal, master and slave cylinders, tranny w/ crossmember on it (I think). I also have an intercooler, and some piping. $50 I don't have pics, but I can get some this weekend.

I have one fender that may have a ding or two. It's at my buddy's house, 50 miles away. I'll ask him to send me a couple pics and forward them on to you.

I've got a few parts I need to get rid of to make room for my new project. I have a complete motor - currently disassembled. Only things it's missing are lifters (you're welcome Andrew). The rod bearing on #3 spun so I had the crank ground and bought a new rod. The crank was not re-hardened, but it came with new bearings. Intake mani Throttle body - missing a piece or two. Exhaust mani - small crack at 1. Stock exhaust - all cats still on, in good shape, no holes. 89 seats - driver's has usual wear, pass and rear are decent. 2 12a turbos - one is only good for the housings, the other needs a rebuild. I also have some hatch area trim and a few body pieces. Ask and I'll look, I can't remember all of it. Set of rims, only slight rash on one - 7s and 8s. I might be persuaded to part w/ my megasquirt (MS - I 3.0) fully assembled and tested, w/ tuning cable. I started a mx6 intake mod, I just needed to get the wiring harness and mount the edis wheel and it would be ready to go. Just haven't got around to it. I made the adapter plate from 1" alum and it fits, if anyone is interested. Pics to come later, or as requested. Lemme know if anyone wants this stuff. Make reasonable offers. Jon