Joel

The wastegate will open at 10psi, not 12psi. Doesn't matter if something ballons or not. If you are going by the stock gauge, that would be more of an airflow adjustment (as the stock gauge uses the MAF to calculate boost). If you have a 10psi wastegate actuator, and you add pipes, and it "gains 2psi", why does the wastegate not open sooner? You do nothing to the wastegate, or the hoses leading to the wastegate, boost readings should be the same unless you have boost creep. After all, if you can simply change pipes and hoses to change the boost, what good is a wastegate? Joel

The 16g is not a stock DSM turbo (14B is, which is a 410CFM turbo at 15PSI or so, larger than the 12A). There is no major gain in switching to a DSM turbo, other than the wastegate is better (it uses that seperate area that is blocked off on our turbos into an O2 housing, much better flow). The bolt right up to the manifold, you just need a new downpipe with DSM o2 housing, and then the intake nozzle that attaches to the turbo on the inlet side and your done. Joel

How does one gain 2psi over stock without changing the wastegate, or regulating the pressure to the wastegate? Joel

325 crank hp is possible, although you'll need tons of fuel to go with the boost. Might want to hand port your head a bit. If you can make it to the 250 range and cant seem to get much more out of it, add a shot of nitrous to bump you up to that 325 your asking. I may end up doing that to get my my 400hp goal. If your looking at making your own stuff, I have an additional injector controller that you'd have to make injector bungs to place the injectors in the intake. I have it for sale, it'll control up to 4 injectors, and will do high and low impedence. It will come with 1 550cc injector. Email me if interested joel@tristarion.com Joel

Generally mods like that will put you in the 200-230whp range, with TONS or torque (300ft/lbs or so). Some claim more, some claim less, all the dyno sheets I've ever seen for these cars scream low hp high torque on stock intake/ecu. Don't forget to mod the fuel system! Joel

the eclipse ECU would require you to use a DIS setup, and the cam angle sensor (which wont work on our setup). Maybe you could somehow retro fit it, but its gonna be a tough setup. The DIS conversion isn't the hard part, its getting a matching signal to the DSM CAS that will be the big deal. Joel

The IMS uses Thottle position load sensing... not a great way to do it, but it can be done. I'm gonna try to answer the question the best that I can, as I don't know if this is what your asking.. "Coil Amp".. Well, I believe this unit has a built in ignitor, so you don't need a separate one. As far as the load points go, you have 8 throttle position "load points", and 16 RPM steps. The RPM steps they use are not linear, more like a gradient. They have the map start at 200 rpm steps, and by the time you get to 4500 your going in 1000RPM steps. This gives you a total of 128 points of adjustability. The problem is you wont go over (without a good built high rpm motor) over 6000RPM if you like your engine. That means you loose 3 of those RPM points. Now you only have 104 points of adjustment, and the software simply sucks. With the haltech I have upto 10500RPM, adjustable in 500RPM increments (21 RPM points) in which I will only use up to 6500 (as opposed to only the ability to use the 6100 on the IMS as the next RPM point on it us at 7200), so I will have 13 RPM adjustment point there (all in equal proportions). Then I get 32 load bars based on a speed density (as opposed to TPS). I have 416 adjustable points to use now. The biggest thing is that the IMS is using a TPS base for load mapping, in which TPS isn't exactly a great device to use for that, although it can be done. Additionally, since its going to already be a challenge to tune using a TPS based map, now couple that with really confusing and under-developed software to tune with. Joel

There is rumor both ways on ignition tables. For instance. If there is no "ignition" maps, I wonder where the claim that the 88-89 ECU has superior ingition and fuel maps came from. I do believe these cars will run fine without have a computer controlled unit in place, as the mechanical ignition can take care of most of that. Bottom line is that while you can run perfectly fine without help from the ignition controls of an advanced computer, when asking for huge power from a smaller motor, its certainly not a disadvantage to have the ignition adjustable and multiple levels (RPM and load based). An MSD unit does not tell the distributor when to fire, it doesn't do that even on a DIS setup. The BTM just has a vacuum connection that will let you retard based on a per pound of boost setting. I.e. you set it to retard 2 degrees per lb of boost, and you've just retarded your timing 20 degrees at 10psi. I'm going to be using a DIS setup on my car (using a mix of RX7 parts) and a hall effect sensor on the crank. Most standalones sold to date (except the AEM, and possibly the ProEFI since the AEM is based off the ProEFI) do not have ANY type of knock control what so ever. Most of the professional tuners claim that using knock control as a tuning tool as a very bad idea. Especially if you plan to drive the car around any where other than the track. Tuning by a knock sensor is basically tuning to the "ragged edge", and if you were to get some interesting gasoline at the pump, or just some change in weather, you could be putting your motor at risk that way. That was me, I posted that information. The Mic-3 by perfect power is an alternative to the more expensive units, don't let that fool you. This unit is mostly a two-dimensional setup and poor resultion (i.e. not as many adjustable points). It also does not support as diverse of a setup (i.e. I don't believe it will support a motronic trigger, which doesn't matter for us anyway). Taking the timing from the coil (i.e. motor position) is not an accurate way to do it. If you think about it, RPM and motor position (where the piston is in what cylinder) has no relationship at all. While you can make a motor run pretty decent firing injectors, emissions won't be as good, and you can still get a decent amount of performance out, especially when going "all out" on the tune for max power. Also, if this unit was to ever control ignition, it would be nessisary for it to use another triggering device (obviously it cannot just guess the values itself for itself). Joel

Batch injection happens 2 times per crank revolution. Not once. For emissions, thats bad, especially since you essentially doing it "whenever". Batched injection on an ECU that pulls the trigger from a hall effect or some optical/magnetic interface will fire when its "supposed" to, although it still fires them all.. Thing about it. Lets start the motor at #1 at TDC. The intake valve is open, and your sucking in your "mix". Without a trigger, the "batched" event could happen... after than valve is closed waiting for the next cycle, or could happen earlier, or later, or, well... whenever. Since sure, you'll have fuel sitting there waiting, its not real optimal for a daily driver, you won't get good gas milage, and its important to not randomly run rich or lean to help with transient response time. The less "random" theses events take place, the more likely you are to be able to tune it out really well. Now, you maybe able to upgrade to a 16G and run 20psi on leaded fuel, maybe, but I think you'll find the net result to be less than optimal, which as you should expect, is relative to how much money you spent. Building the component yourself means your already prone to failure sooner than later. You will be hassled with troubleshooting a PCB that you built, and even when it does run the constant shaking, moving, shocks, and moisture will all effect its lifespan, etc. By all means, don't let me hold you back, I'm explaining what I know, and would hate others that don't understand what they are getting into that this is not a project for your average electronically challenged enthusiast. Its also going to be a tough road to power with tuning due to the inefficiencies in the system. As far as running 3 computers, its not quiet the same thing. An MSD has nothing to do with ignition control... you can buy modules that will statically change the timing, but you cannot reshape the timing curve, or drastically change it. You would be better off keeping the stock setup unless you need the ignition amplifier for high boost. Your stock ECU will do fine with the fuel pump, and ignition events otherwise, but you still don't have the flexibility you could otherwise have. You could probably do decent with the stock timing maps, but pulling the times at a 1/4 mile track will be a bit more limited, as its much easier (and allows you do give more timing) when you on leaded fuels. You'll be able to run more boost, more timing, and all that. If your goal is not to be a dyno queen, or not to run fast 1/4 mile times, then it could be worth a shot. You may even run decent 1/4 miles, but just be warned that if your looking to be faster than the guys with the full setups, save your $150 towards a real setup. Joel

I think you miss the point I was trying to get accross with performance in regards to this unit. The SDS units ALL use a trigger, this one does not. "Functionality wise" doesn't nessisarily say something about how well something performs. Look at the SDS units, and you will find a triggering device. You will have a trigger device that (on a four cylinder there is 2 event triggers) so the injectors know when to fire. This device on the other hand, does not do that in any way. It "calculates" when the motor will need fuel, and when you have your foot stuck in it at 20psi, I really doubt this 8mhz processor will calculate it fast enough to keep up. I still don't believe this system is optimal in anyway about 250hp, if even that. Stock intake or not. This device has no idea when to start firing injectors, and its no configurable in that way. 3000RPM can be read in to start at #1 cyl TDC, and the very next time it could be exactly the opposite. I'm honestly suprised it runs. If you've read up on how Multipoint injection works (Multipoint is batched), there is always a trigger. only CIS type injection systems (which use fuel valves for injectors) don't have a "trigger". Also, after learning some interesting things last night, there is very little need to use barometric correction factors on a speed density type system. If your using a MAP sensor, your fuel correction will almost never need to be adjusted for altitude. If you live at sea level, you'll get the "same" tune as at 5000ft, but you'll never get to the last 1 or 2 load bars at WOT. The fuel values will always be the same. So including that feature (unless I missed something and you can use the TPS as your load sensing device) is almost pointless. Not being able to match ignition to fuel is one problem, not being able to fire the injectors during the correct time is a major drawback. For the price, however, you can't beat it. But you DO get what you pay for. There is no magic in tuning, its all about having the right equipment, the right support for the equipment, and how much you care to tinker with getting it there. Even the Haltech units, SDS units, and TEC units have complaints that 1000-1200hp is pretty far fetched on these units. People have done it, yes. I would imagine one could possibly get this "up there", but I believe that will that limit the drivability and the safety of the motor. Joel

I would like to point some things out about this kind of setup. This ECU is using a tach signal to figure out when injection events should occur. That doesn't work, its far from optimal. Your car will run, it may even slightly give you a tune, but you'll still be in that "less than optimal" stage you are now with the stock ECU. The stock ECU uses 3 magnetic poles inside the distributor for 3 things... Ignition timing (which is almost not required), injection timing, and fuel pump relay. Tach signals are in frequency. There is nothing in that signal to tell you which piston is at TDC, and which valve is opening. Batch mode would be much more optimal then trying a semi-sequential setup, as you have a greater chance of getting the valve timing right (although still not exact). Likewise, there is no ignition control, so if you can get your fuel tuned in, you still have no control on how ignition is done. So you have to base all your fuel maps on how much ignition advance you have already. When it comes down to it, this unit really isn't for "performance" but rather to change away from a stock setup (carb or maybe even tbi) and see some difference in fuel economy and a slight performance gain. If your aiming for high hp, this is not a wise investment. If your looking for a learning experiance, perhaps a little tunability, and < 250hp, this might be an ok unit. Also, keep in mind that the build quality of an OEM ecu is several times better than your average SDS, Haltech, and TEC-3. If you all haven't read the DIY-EFI list, you might want to (DIY-EFI.org), as those "electronics geeks" have gone over that several times. If you believe that you can build a better unit than the OEM as far as longevity, you may find yourself very mistaken. Joel

I'll be installing a Haltech E6k soon enough in mine (i'll be ripping the entire engine out before hand, as well as the interior). We just finished up an installation of a haltech on another kind of car... very cool setup... I love this Haltech Joel

oh... oops.. also, if you like to avoid backfires, and perhaps even more "explosive" episodes, run a window switch. I've seen it a few times (and have had a video of) many boucing off the rev limiter and blowing things up while on the shot. A window switch is one of the best safety devices for nitrous that you can buy. Look at ALL your options when thinking about nitrous. Eveything from progressive controllers, Direct port, dry/wet shots, staging controllers, window switches, bottle openers etc. Learn what all of these systems do and don't do. With a stock intake manifold a standard wet/dry shot you could get away with. A Dry shot won't back fire as much if at all, a wet shot is more likely to. A dry needs you to give it more fuel to support the nitrous, a wet does not. A Direct port wet is the best of both worlds, and runs about the 600-800 dollar range to get most of eveything you will need to run a 50-200 shot. I'll be happy to answer any questions you have, but unfortunately I've not run nitrous on any of my own cars. Joel

Fuel systems don't have to be upgraded nessisarily if running a direct port wet shot. The nitrous comes with fuel via fogger nozzles (kind of like running 4 injectors except they are for nitrous and fuel. The "cooling turbo" effect is not cooling off the turbo physically, but cooling off the charge the turbo emits (ie all the compressed air volume even after the intercooler will be cooled more with the nitrous charge). On a turbo/FI setup with a wet shot direct port setup, you avoid most all backfires (which happens due to deatomization of the nitrous charge), and a 50 shot can add even more than 50hp, due to the other effects it has on the already existing charge. For example, the compressed air is now cooler, nitrous brings its own oxygen which can help get around flow limitations in the cylinder head ports, and no frictional loss to hp gain ratio to deal with. Every little bit counts, but when you start playing with nitrous, boost, and fuel, don't be cheap just to say your a thrify person, spend it where it counts and do it right. Buy now or buy later.. Later is ALWAYS more expensive (new block/head/pistons/rods, you get the idea). Joel

Been curious about this for a while... On the square flanged units, how do you seal up where the fuel pump block off plate is on the head? Joel

Personally I would shitcan the TecII/III, way to expensive for what you get. SDS or Haltech setup will work as well if not better, and you'll save some money (like almost 600-800). Joel

Who is this Tyrrell guy? He's awefully pissed off at me, and all I wanted to proof of his claims. 400WHP seems awefully high for a claim on a 14B (which the engine pics don't reflect) at 28psi (with no BOV). He claimed alot of things that made him sound like he had no idea what he was talking about. I would much rather hear this stuff from someone like yourself. Since this is kind of offtopic, maybe we can talk off here in email? Joel

How durable is the sleeves after a .075" bore-over? What is the maximum? Joel

I can do that entire $995 package (with the machinsts bill included) for about $600 (I build motor myself). You can do it cheaper, but its your labor you spend. I like to know what all the measurements are on all the beaings, instead of relying on someone who doesn't care about YOUR individual motor... Nothing against TEP, or any other shop, but no one will take better care of your car than you. Joel

Sorry if I offended, the maps that were produced to me for all To4E's were way off. I appriciate Chad on producing a map. Joel

A To4E is not huge... depending on trim (i.e. a 46 trim) it ranges from a little bigger than a big 16g to a 60 trim which is a little smaller than a big 20G Joel

Just an observation here... But if your A) relying on power from a bottle (no lag from a bottle) using a nitrous kit to do it why aren't you C) using nitrous in the bottle. Use a wet kit, aux fuel pump (armed with the switch), and not only will you eliminate lag, you will make more power. Letting off CO2 sounds like a great idea, except you'd need a 1000psi bottle of it since its not 500-700 degrees F. Theres no expansion, infact, all current exhaust would cool off and contract. The bottle would only last a few runs. Joel

RPS Turbo Clutch. Maxx Torque PP for higher HP. I haven't run mine yet, but I do know that at least the guy who runs the place will give me the time of day, and talk to me. Joel

Its driving me nuts guys! hehe Whats the reason for the post size limits? If there is a major performance reason, is there any problems with me making my long post in response to someone over here on my site, and then posting the link over here? 50% of my posts seem to be so long winded (I talk to much) that I go over the character limit. Joel