Joel

thats funny. Me and a buddy put in a haltech E6k on a Hyundai (which is going to see both nitrous and turbo at one point), we put in some 710cc injectors, ripped out the stock ecu... He's running a motor thats built with Ross racing forged pistons and crower rods, went on a road trip after the break in and pulled in ~35mpg. Better than the stock ECU, and we're not "experts" at tuning. Very drivable on the street. It is a "low end system", but that does not mean its not drivable on the street. Joel

Small Block Chevy Joel

There is one availible that people are welcome to use at www.tristarion.com. Joel

Where you also aware that the engine being cold can change many more variables in the map than you think. For instance, the colder map has retarded ignition. A Colder car with a cold altenator is likely to put out different voltage than a hot car with a hot alternator... What does it do when the car is "cold" and the alternator is hot... it changes the map still. Fuel enrichment by this method will lead you on very short trails of gains, cost in economy, and ruin your paint near your bumper Joel

Why are you getting a 3angle on new SS valves? 3angle is a standard cut valve job. Should already be cut when you bought them? Joel

I think you'd have a problem making the injectors fire in time the way you want. Likewise, you'll likely find problems with signal losses on triggers and some of the resistance-type sensors would have to be recalibrated with the extra wires going to the additional ECU. I'm sure it could be done, enough to run decent.. however i think the trouble you will have (adding complexity to a system which doesn't need anymore added to it) will negate the reason why you would do it. Joel

you have two options: Apexi SAFC or the like (SAFC is cheaper for what you get then others) Or You can hog out the bypass tubes in the mass to enlarge the holes, allowing more bypass air through (unmetered). That will lean it out. Could require some trial and error, start small. Joel

No one could ever convince me that shelby is ripping some one off. Have you priced what a DSM IC hard pipe (ONE pipe to the tb) costs? ~100-130 for ONE pipe! Shelby does this BY HAND! You want it CHEAPER, make it yourself! anything less and its not worth selling one! I would imagine, by hand from personal experiance, to finish it like shelby does to take ~ 4-6 hours including test fits and oiverall finish. the price of materials is ~50-75 including tools (like sand paper/files/welding wire/gas etc). If you sold them for $100, you would make $10 an hour on average. You can make that at most burger joints! Lets wager this in... Spend time with family... or make Hard pipes for people at $10/hr. Hmmmm? Joel

Jegs and summit are cheaper if i recall right now... I was looking for mild steel versions, not aluminum. Joel

Summit, Jegs, and some racing shops if you search on the web. You won't find them much cheaper than 30-40 a peice. I been down that road myself. Joel

conquestpa, The hole you are referring to is the fuel pump entrance on the carb'd cars, and that is between 1 & 2, not 3 & 4. Joel

No, the hole between 3 & 4 is for EGR. You dont have the option for the EGR on that manifold (obviously), dont worry about it. the heater core should be after the thermostat to match how the stock configuration was done. Joel

Shelby did say that these numbers were taken at that valve retainer. That can skew these results some. I think what we DO know is that the cam is slightly advanced from the factory, irregardless of measurement location. Joel

Yeah, you have to be careful with comparing A/Rs. Another example is a .63 A/r on a T3 vs a .63 A/R on a T4... ones larger then the other... .63 a/r on a T4 is decent in size while a .63 A/R on a T3 is hideous! the housing itself is more important than JUST a/r when your looking for a turbo. You have to look at both, but first choose the housing that will support what your looking for (i.e. HP numbers via compressor map), then attempt to theoretically match the A/R with how much spool up vs how much pressure you want in the exhaust housing. For "Racing" applications, you would optimally like to have your exhaust pressure less then 1.5x your intake pressure...this allows the cam to be more flexible with overlap issues. Closer to 2x your intake pressure is decent for a street car with pep. Make wise choices when buying turbos unless you have $900-1200 laying around every time you fail to make the right choice.. Joel

But the roller rockers are a 1.6 ratio, so lift will be more when comparing the 2 cams with ~ the same specs. Joel

Thats EXACTLY what I was noticing. I ment no offence to Mike about this post, I was simply commenting that Mike's basically already done better on his setup, and the curve still looks the same. Perhaps if this wasn't a so-called incomplete dyno it would be different? It honestly doesn't help sell a cam if the curve looks like that! Joel

Not impressive at all yet. I don't believe, according to these numbers, I would spend $10 on the setup no less $300+. I agree with Tim C on this one, don't bother wasting my time telling me about dyno numbers that are supposedly on a screwed up car. Its worthless. Joel

Well, I think there are a few things missing in your theory. You are assuming that long strokes cannot make power above X rpm. That is simply untrue. SOHC/8valve motors have and will make good power if done right. Yes there is an advantage to the 16valve/dohc heads, but that doesn't mean it can't be made up with the extra displacement. Long stroked motors require more flow in the head (obviously), BUT the wonderful thing it DOES have an advantage over is more effiecient burn times (due to smaller bore than stroke). The flame front travels from the spark plug (roughly center in our hemi design but not exactly). The smaller bore allows for propagation to take less time. The large bore motors typically take less time to fill the chamber, but take more timing advance to burn the mixture efficiently due to flame propagation speeds. The larger motor will spool a larger turbo. I don't know if you realize this or not, but keywords like "Laminar flow" don't have to mean as much under boost. Â I will not argue that a WRX/DSM with a pent roof head will likely make more power per lb of boost per cubic inch, but I will argue that with the added cubic inch it matters less. V8's are good powerplants not due to efficiency, but because of total power output. I wouldn't personally suggest anyone here attempt 8k redlines on a street car with a l/s ratio of 1.36, but for a all out race-mobile it can be done with excellent results. The hemispherical SOHC head does not allow placement of the sparkplug in the dead center, since the cam is in the way. They get somewhat close, but not quiet. Flame propagation takes place from an outter edge rather than dead center. This is not all lost, as chamber swirl does actually take place in a hemispherical head. Naturally, this does not happen on pent roof designs without special head work done, unless the manufacturer built that in. Those techniques were not used on the WRX or DSM heads. To be completely and udderly honest with you, I think the 2.6L has some major advantages over most other 4cyl due to displacement. The problem is, the car has been out of production for 13 years, and in those 13 years only a handful of people have TRIED to get power out of these cars... Of those successful individuals, very few of them will utter a word voluntarily about the setup used. WRX's and DSM's have thousands of individuals who have played with these cars, and now the internet is availible to help them in their quest. Now you can setup your car based on someone elses knowledge. That honestly is not an option on a G54B. The long stroke of the G54B is advantagous due to its enormous torque output per revolution. That does not require one to rev the hell out of it to make up the difference. I think the choices between the WRX/DSM/Starion will all be somewhat equal when all are given equal attention in the proper areas. I have some pretty decent connections in DC that deals with mostly the WRX, and the shop has put the stock-motored WRX in the 12s without nitrous. Thats damn good. By no means do I believe that you cannot do that with a Starquest. Its just never really been payed the attention that we are now giving it. Long strokers generally are not as efficient, but generally come out in the top few when setup properly... For those of us really trying hard on this, we can't expect the same power output per X mod we do as any other "different design" motor. Just design the system to work for what you want, and stop caring what "Other motors" that have NOTHING in common with this one aside from "It has metal, and pistons, and valves, and 4 holes" etc. On a side note, G54B still holds world record times... The 2L motors are still in the 8s iirc. Joel

iirc Mike here is running a 292 Schnieder cam... and yet the curve looks stock... write that down, thats something to note for sure. Joel

Yeah, Haltech has a two stage, and you set the type of cut you want, spark or fuel. I would always cut spark not fuel. You can run cylinders lean that way. Most rev limiters that use the spark cut method with chop off 2 cylinders at a time for that cycle, then move to the next 2 and then back. So you only miss spark on one cycle per cylinder. Must better than just chopping the spark off to the whole motor, letting it load up with fuel, and then going to take off and not go anywhere fast. Also the spark cut limiter with a 2 stage will load up the exhaust with rich exhaust, and if you set on the limiter just long enough your 1-2 shift will be a nice flame ball... thats only good for burning your opponents to the ground however. Joel

The price is gonna drop on the E6K, as the E11 is coming out. You won't NEED the E11 to get the same HP numbers, its just got some nifty features. You can save the MAP off the Haltech anytime you like (just dump it down to the laptop and make changes). The latest firmwares allow you to have 2-3 maps saved on the ERPOM at once, and you can wire one of your outputs to switch between the maps!! Just think.. "Low boost map/pump gas" and "High boost map/race gas" maps at the flip of a switch! awesome stuff. The Haltech will let you do DIS ignition just like the TECII, which i'm going that route. I'll be using some random RX7 parts, and if you have a crank trigger you are about $100 away from switching to a DIS ignition on a haltech. Good for 500+hp on the ignition, no need for MSD Joel

I really like the haltech. You can run it with a $50 laptop that you can beat to hell and you wont care. Windows sometimes can have "issues" as we all know... I would hate to get a blue screen of death while the eprom was being written... I love the interface to my haltech, and honestly the HP differences between the two units would be minimal if any... haltech sometimes even more because more people find it easier to understand. LOTS of support out there too. Joel

you can only do so much with a stock ECU. And no one is going to sit around and reprogram an ECU to your specs without your car in hand to do it... and having someone do that for you will be nicely eating out of your wallet. I don't believe there is a better way IMO than a standalone. I said it before, I'll say it again... It will cost as much as a standalone, and you'll regret not buying a standalone if you don't do it. Its only ~1300 or so to have your choice of 3-5 different systems.. that may seem like alot, but you'll spend $800 for the ecu/wiring harness from a DET, then you gotta pay someone to reprogram it while they have your car in hand. Then if you change things around, guess you'll have to get it reprogrammed again (since your running a MAP sensor now), unless you want to start the bandaides again (AFC, raising fuel pressure, etc). Joel

Shouldn't his posts be moved to the proper location and the thread at least be locked? It's a nonsense post, no point in keeping it going in my opinion. Joel

Rolo's best time was done on who knows what exact setup. I believe it was a T3/T4, 75 shot of nitrous, EIP pistons/rods, EIP Intake, TEC II, 20psi of boost.. I believe it was a 11.18 or a 11.85, can't remember. That was on very leaded gas. If I remember right, he bought a package deal from EIP. He told me he pushes 585hp to the wheels on 30psi no nitrous, but wouldn't run that at the track for fear of blowing the head gasket. So he ran the boost down to 20 and used the nitrous. Joel