itimport2nr

Once you compress the spring using the device you are describing, you are essentially changing the spring rate characteristics of the spring. You don't want to do that. Get REAL springs... and buy quality springs. Some of the cheaper springs out there sag A LOT after it settles, lowering the car much more beyond what you originally bought in the first place. Also remember to pair up the new springs with a set of aftermarket dampers (or struts, shocks, etc as they are called... but that's a misnomer in every sense) that are valved to handle the new springs. The stock dampers are designed to work with the stock springs... so toss those out.

Picking up on an earlier post about using an SR20DET ECU with MPI... a funny suggestion was brought up by Gary @ McKinney Motorsports... Why not use a reprogrammed SR20DE ECU... makes things easier since this ECU works off a distributor just like StarQuest ECUs. Thoughts? Ideas? Just trying to come up with more creative solutions as the interior is almost finished on the project car and as we edge closer to working on the motor... Thanks.

I was having a conversation with a friend of mine at Nissan and I brought up the issue of converting the 2 injector system in the project car to a brand new intake plenum + 4 injectors and stand alone ECU. I told him that I was leaning away from that because there would be too much downtime and complexity involved in getting the car up and running properly. He threw out this idea at me... He said that it would be possible to an SR20DET ECU from a Silvia with a MAF sensor for a Mustang Cobra and some other bits... with tuning by Wolf Technology to get the car running... INSTEAD of a stand-alone system like Electromotive, SDS, Motec and the like. I know that the SR motor does not have a distributor for one thing... Any other reasons / questions I can throw at him during our next discussion that would make this not possible? I am thinking that if an SR ECU was INDEED usable, then why couldn't I apply the same principles to a 4G63 ECU?

I'll be meeting with Hose Techniques tomorrow and they will be using the project 87 Starion ESI-R to put together a complete kit for our rides. Speaking with Lucky (owner of Hose Tech), we were at a conflict as to what the proper ID for the lines should be. He actually said that 3.2 is a weird size, with 3.5 being more appropriate.