JSwan

I have the same injectors as you and had a difficult time getting it to bolt up. I did what the above guys said and loosened the two bolts that hold the black hardpipe than runs through the front firewall and then installed OVCP at the TB coupler first. After that, I starting forcing the IC pipe to mate the OVCP and IC pipe together. I used soap/water (kids bubbles actually) to make it easier.... Mine acutally sits high at the radiator end now but I have the hood off and cant test close it yet.... I'm pretty sure the TB part will clear b/c its lower than the injector housing now.. JSwan

Looking for the factory rubber spacer that slips around the turbo inlet for the accordian hose. I'll take a good used one or a referal to a part number or equivalent to the local parts store. Thanks in advance. JSwan

I'm looking for small plastic square cover on the maroon interior that is between the radio and the steering column about where your right knee rests when driving. Its about 1"x1". You still got it? Jswan

I just wanted to add that overall, I was happy with the Trilogy Injectors as well before all this other work was started. The primary injector added a little more response on the low end since it was a little bigger (cc flow) than stock. The secondary injector is a little smaller than stock and I felt I lost maybe a hair on the top end, although it may have just been becasue the low end felt stronger and made the high less impactfull. JSwan

Thanks all! Jswan

Looking to hook up a BOV and had a suggestion to find the fitting from the intake runner on an auto transmission car intake. Its located on top the intake between the TB and Firewall on the last runner. JSwan

Yes it is.

Ok everyone, I finally got time to chime in here on this topic and clarify as needed. I am the owner of the car and the log style header in question. First, I would like to take my hat off to Ulrichwolf for making the lengthy trip here to KC so we could make a valiant effort to get this car of mine running. It has sat in my garage for over 3 years and I have slowly accumulated various parts to assist in improving the performance and appearance of one of my prize possessions. Tim knows the history of this car better than anyone but myself and was committed with me to get it back on the road so I could finally drive it again and also attend the next Starquest meet. Second, I want to thank Matt Tainter, T-Man, and Ryan V for there quick responses on Saturday night while Tim and I were working diligently to get everything bolted back together and we hit this snag with the header clearance. With all of Tim's help and the concern and assistance from these guys, this absolutely confirms to me that this is one very strong car club where guys are really trying to help each other out in the grace of friendship and the common thread of one of the most unique cars in recent history. I thank all of you for this. If anyone recalls the group header purchase, we had the option to choose from the equal length header, which required movement of stock components and the log style manifold, which was to my understanding, a direct replacement for the somewhat restrictive and typically cracked stock exhaust manifold. I had already dropped about $400.00 in my down pipe, B-pipe, and CAT back exhaust so after careful thought, I decided to go with the log style header after Chad promptly answered a series of questions I asked him in a PM or two before I committed to the purchase. SQF, if you read the header GP post thread more clearly, the log style manifold was supose to be a direct bolt on. In fact, this is a direct quote from questions and answers I put into a PM to Chad before the purchase just to be clear: Me- "Fifth, Is my understanding correct when I say the log manifold will be a direct bolt on and all mechanics around the manifold will bolt up to their stock locations, including the heat shield and other misc? Chad- 5: I make this log manifold with a stocker as my template. I can say it will bolt on with little or no effort. I may end up making it off 1-2 degrees, I am human afterall :wink: It may move the turbo ~1/2 further from teh head to get the runners enough clearnce so the turbo position will varry slightly. this is nothign that can't be worked arround wtih a little tweak here/there, an you probalby wont 'notice it when you put it back together unless you have some custom stuff that has no room for movement. I guess what I'm saying is that I make it to fit the stock hardware, but there will be some tolerances to work with. If you got it and it just plain ole' didn't fit or suit you, I'd buy it back (if it were mounted but still unused ofcourse)." I have no beef with Chad's product whatsoever, except that it just didn't fit as I expected. The welding was very good and I was extremely excited to bolt it onto my new ported and polished Marnel head (thanks Rich). However, on Saturday night at decision time, I was faced with two very serious problems on hood clearance and the downpipe fitment with my B-pipe. If I had one problem or the other I could probably live, but both together was enough for me to call the install off, since I still had a good stress relieved and uncracked stock manifold to put back on and time was ticking to get the car running again (I'm moving by the way and don't want to tow this car to the new house!). I was very disappointed on Saturday and still a little bumed about it now. Chad, I will tip my hat off to you as well for living up to your word that you would buy this header back if it didn't work for me. I will likely have you do this, although I am still without an exhaust header, which I want so badly. I have a realistic goal of reaching about 300-320 hp on this car some day and I was building for the future with this header install while hoping to save more $ and finish off later with a decent turbo upgrade. I may now switch my thinking from header back to turbo upgrade and use my refund towards my turbo budget.. I don't know yet. Bottom line here is this. I don't want anyone in this thread to take any heat for standing up for me. Thanks again Tim for everything this weekend, you are a true friend. Similiarly, I don't want anyone to take any heat if they are honering their word to refund the purchase price if the part doesn't perform as expected. Both of these efforts are what makes this a strong club. Thanks to everyone, JSwan in KC

PICTURES! http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/8337/dscf0039ft7.jpg http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/1469/dscf0046kb4.jpg http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/917/dscf0047vq1.jpg http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/9589/dscf0048om7.jpg http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/4040/dscf0049zt5.jpg I dunno, boys....I'm pretty sure I put it on right. Tim

This is Tim. I can't post pics till I get back to Wichita (in Kansas City now) however, after reviewing Tman's install pics on 26liter, we have a very serious heigth issue. The upper most bolt on the turbo, originally for securing the pipe for the oil seperator system, is DEAD LEVEL with the top cap of our K Mac camber plates on this car. I have pictures, and we are working on a way to get them up.... Bear with us. Call with questions. Tim

I'm interested. I like the oil cap idea as well.... jswan

ill have to check Couldn't quite see it in your photos, the steering wheel buttons were in the way. Did you find it? Jswan

I need the small square cover that clips into the lower part of the dash to the lower right of the steering column about where your right knee is when driving. Do you have this little piece?

I improved on overall quality on the Gen II versus the Gen I sets. Fit and finish is better too. The main improvements are in the design and how the set goes together for added strength. Adjustments are also a little more refined on Gen II. And the Gen II sets are more rigid by design. However the Gen I set will do just fine for you. Shawn Nice work Shawn. Glad to see your making this great product again. Thanks for the update on Gen II bars. Jason

I have an older S&M Front set that I havn't installed yet. What makes the GEN II different from the GEN I? THANKS

Hey Chad, Sent you a PM and deposite via pay-pal. Thanks, JSwan

pm sent.

I'm very interested in this, but it will come down to timing of the group purchase for the stock set up (already invested in new downpipe, hardpipes, and turbo in stockish locations) as my $ and car might be done before then. JSwan

Ditto on the pm's. If the hard pipes are still available I could be interested if there are any photos. You can send photos to jcrows@hotmail.com if you got any. J

sent you a pm

Got your pm and e-mailed you pictures. Thanks for your interest! JSwan

Thanks Mike, Yes, they are IVAM vales and they are Hydraulic Spec... 1987-89 Starion/Quest, not 100% sure on other years JSwan

Got a new set of stock Marnal valves for my Marnal Head from Richie Rich but decided to go with oversized valves now. These are new in the box and never used. Got pictures to e-mail if you want. $50.00 obo shipped (in US). JSwan

Jeff, I know this is wimmpy... but I'm looking for the plastic rectangle piece that fits on the lower dash between the steering column and radio. It's about where your right knee points when your driving. I need it in Maroon. Let me know if you got it and what it would cost. Jason in Kansas City

Another Pat on the back for Lower Shores Performance! Brian has been great to deal with. I have bought several things from him in the past few months and he was quick with the shipping and his e-mail responses. JSwan