Bill Hincher

yes, the only diffence is the starter is mounted upside down from the narrow block to clear the balance shaft casting in the bolck for thG54b http://www.billsautofab.com/images/GMtransadaptor22.jpg

hey jay, whats going on? Bill

exhaust valve guides dont cause oil usage, there is no suction on the guide, they only work when the piston is on the upstroke, that problem will be in the intake guides because those valves are open when the piston is sucking in on the downstroke the exhaust valves run much hotter then the intake valves, they tend to swell more, so I suugesst the giudes ID is too tight to the valve stem and siezing up, you should have a snap ring or circlip in the guide and a rotater flat washer on the bottom of the valve spring holding the guide in place

I have them on hand Jay, they are 5/ x 1 in pm me an adress and I will send a set

yeah, the dowels do need to be there and did you use the dowel in the crankshaft? that needs to be there too if you dont use the dowels there is no way to center the trans

try to get the yoke with the trans and have a shaft built right now, the only option I know of is for powertrain industries in California part # 1303-23 23spline 1.200 inner diameter 6.125length 1.575 outer (seal) diameter Toyota Car power train industries garden Grove, calif 1-800-798-4585 $107.89 the reason this yoke is a good option is because it uses a 1330 U-joint or equivilant to a 3/4 ton truck U joint I would love to find a 1350 ( one ton) U-jiont to finish out this swap

okay, heres the deal, I have seen cranks break right in the main bearing, so the crank looks like it is good but its the main cap holding it in place I know you had the balance weights machined to 'knife edge' but that would increase the vibration what I would like to do is chuck your crank in the lathe with the flywheel and adapter attached and check it for run out or spin it and see how the balance is effected I have a stock G 64 crank here if we need to exchange it. I am worried that the surface of the crank/adapter is comprimised but we need to find the problem before you go through all this work again My only goal is to put you in a position to succeed

you use the Mitsubishi pressure plate and the Toyota Supra disc from the 7me turbo engine

it re uses everything from the Starion , the starter, flywheel pressure plate all re use the G54b engine stamdard parts

the wideblock is either the G54b or the 4G64 truck motor the slave cylinder was chosen for the drivers side to avoid the exhaust system, the difference is the bleeder valve has to face upward

are you there Jay?

sorry about my late reply Ron, I been doing a lot of R&D lately I have about 10 wideblock R 154's in service right now, and I have one on hand they run $425.00 and include the slave cylinder, front plate. throw out bearing and throw out bearing coller, they are a direct bolt up that use the original pilot bearing with a Toyota Supra disc

bump

I bet that crank is busted, well, at least the crankshaft bolt threads are ruined, it dont matter, I got a good crank you can have, I can come over when you assemble this time and help you out

what happened jay?

the Subaru guys are replacing the RX 7 engines with sub turbo units and using my bellhousings for tthe W series Toyota trans for RWD set ups and the shifter needs to set back 12 inches, so I need a longer extension then just a longer loop, so I am building this 'box' so I can use either a solid shaft or cables if needed anyway, its a nice remote shifter for a veriaty applications

this is the remote shifter, the first thing I did was replace the shifer loop extension with an R 154 internal set up http://www.billsautofab.com/images/W55remoteshifter.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/W55remoteshifter1.JPG then I located and mounted the second peice from the R 154 shifter and located the shift rail http://www.billsautofab.com/images/W55remoteshifter2.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/W55remoteshifter4.JPG then I started building the body of the remote shifter http://www.billsautofab.com/images/W55remoteshifter5.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/W55remoteshifter6.JPG I could have done this a lot of different ways but it had to be very universal because it will fit a variaty of aplications and it had to work just as well as a 5 inch extension to a 2 foot extension http://www.billsautofab.com/images/W55remoteshifter8.JPG I will probably spend just as much time building the tooling to machine this part

welcome home Matt, wish I had your spirit of adventure

doode, didja make it home otay?

hey button, I am working on your adapter, if you wanna come down here there is a GM / hydromatic car show on Sunday that is well worth your time, you could kill 2 birds with one stone, usually over 700 cars

whats all the fasination with the starter Button? the difference between the 1.0 kw to 1.4kw is like knowing the quailty of tiolet paper to use, who gives a rip?

its part number 604 from powermaster through jeg's they are $14.00 http://www.billsautofab.com/images/startergear1.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/startergear3.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/startergear4.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/startergear5.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/startergear6.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/startergear7.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/startergear8.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/startergear10.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/startergear11.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/startergear12.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/startergear13.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/startergear14.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/startergear16.jpg

its old school, fully hydraulic, I will be building some electronic models later on

wow man, I dig your style, when you get ready for this adapter, come on down over the weekend and pick it up, you should check out my shop , maybe I will make a run up there, its about 2 hours

yeah, thats why it was used, because you can get them anyware dirt cheap