MadMax

any pics??

Any pics? hey your colingibbs brother right tell him to check his pms.

found bubbles in the oil when i got home from work today and the sound returned after a long drive on the highway. I guess that means the head gasket went out...again! any other possibilities i changed the intake mani gasket when i did the head gasket about a month ago. maybe these felpro gaskets just arent that great??

:eek1bluegreen: looks like the aic system from tep cost close to a grand. im guessing this guy doesn't know what he has. that system came with injectors fuel pump and a fuel control computer if i remember correctly. look at the compressor housing on the turbo does that look like a 12a?? didnt those extra injector systems cause a lot of fires?? I've always wondered what those systems looked like. I bet its got the tep camshaft and more under the valve cover.not to mention the radiator and hardpipes.

Without ps youll end up ruining the rubber bushing in the steering coupler above the steering box, that will cause lots and lots of play in the steering. It doesnt take long for this to happen.

supposed knock vanished when i started car after work today. I drove the piss out of it and no noise to be heard, go figure. Car now runs great, idle is not so great when cold but thats cause i have no isc. anyone know what would cause the car to cut out when "warm", not when cold not when hot just warm???

I am seriously considering purchasing this mani but your post kinda scares me. any idea what those bad mani you are talking about are made of?? was is cheap material or bad welds??

Found a crack in my exhaust mani. Anyway to determine if this is the noise im hearing. any help is appreciated.

clicking sound when at idle and accel. It sounds like a lifter but slightly different, ive yet to spin a bearing in this motor so i am not familiar with the sound. Im trying to eliminate possibilities of a rod knock or turned bearing cause it would be the worst case scenario for me right now and i dont think that is the problem. lifters pulled, bled and pumped up much quieter than previous. i watched the oil pressure from cold to warm and under accel it seems to be operating as it should, also the sound doesnt stop or change from rpm range only gets faster as expected. also got my handy mechanics stethoscope, i listened all around the valve cover and sound can be heard just about all over though sounds louder in the rear which leads me to believe the problem is in the head. if i listen at the bottom of the oil pan i hear nothing it is nice and quiet. i havent been able to reach all the way to the back of the pan yet but if it is quiet back there is it pretty safe to say my problem is not in the crank?? also just changed oil and found no evidence of metal shavings. so what say you? can i eliminate that possibility?? are there any other tests i can do to check for bad bearings, besides the obvious pulling apart the motor??

ill take one in black or charcoal whatever you got. please pm me info needed.

nice, but those pics are teeny. Is it stainless steel, and that is a tdo5 flange on there right?

:sweatingitout: I spoke to soon. now the problem is opposite it cuts out when when cold and runs fine when hot. lifters sound like they are gonna pop when driving. but they clear up after it idles a min. Are they bad or am i pressurizing the system? I have new mitsu pcv valve bought from dads shop and stock oil separator system recently reinstalled. If i pop off the oil cap while they are ticking and it clears up then it is pressure in the head right?? I guess it wouldnt hurt to go ahead and just buy new lifters. Im gonna recheck the timing and swap out the cts to see if that helps. any other suggestions are greatly appreciated. also if anyone knows where the blinker flasher unit is off hand that would be great, ineed to get this car inspected and friday is my only day. last time i took it in it failed , they said i had an exhaust leak and bad wipers. they didnt notice the fact that i have no cats no egr and no charcoal canister. lame.

thanks Tim i got it to grab on the drivers side while driving today. still cant get the belt alarm to shutup. Anyone know where the blinker flasher is ???

:ylsuper: i fixed it i fixed it :jumping0045: :woot: :lock: finally got a decent volt meter is was the tps combined with a broken connection at the knock sensor and the timing one tooth off. i ran the car for two or three weeks that way without knowing, I wonder what set it off????

i reset timing and now distributor shows proper timing. Im not sure what you mean about the stators, i pulled the cap and rotor they dont line up at center of the distributor travel only when turned all the way up. if that makes sense. and if so would that be right? only difference after wards is now im getting no 02 sensor code but instead ignition pulse and cts trouble codes. I think i need to start fresh. cutting out only when warm is usually symptoms of what??

forgot to mention i swapped the tps but im having a hard time resetting it i cant seem to get any kind of reading out of either sensors. im gonna try setting in some alligator clips between the harness with some exposed wire to see if i can get a reading. also i have no isc so im just letting the motor warm then trying to read it.

everything under the console has been removed and replaced with the 86 parts. I yanked the crap out of the belts over and over and nothing. is there any way to maybe retro fit or repair these???

Swapped all sensors on intake including maf, swapped back in 87 ecu, fixed knock sensor connector and now the timing is screwy. either to advanced or to retarded, it was fine before i discovered the broken connector at the knock sensor. Is it possible that my cam gear is off, would that even cause such a problem? also motor will now rev all the way up depending on how much gas you give it but as soon as you let off it wont come back up till it hits 15k. so progress is being made, i think. i just cant get the dist to stab right or something is off with the timing. I did recently change the head gasket , everything went back together fine and timing was right although i do not know if the knock sensor was working then. i will pull the valve cover today and set at top dead center to see if my cam gear lines up. After that i am at a loss as to what the next step would be. Maybe i am missing something i have yet to check voltage to fuel pump and test regulator cause the fuel system seems fine. ignition pulse error code went away only to be replaced by an o2 sensor code ??????

Found broken connection and knock sensor, fixed that, stabbed in new distributor and still having the same problem.

Ok blew out connections and distributor with air, still not working, what are the symptoms of a bad knock sensor or a bad transmission speed sensor?

Got injector clips installed, tested injectors, and it's not a fuel problem. The only difference is it only starts cutting out when warm. Any idea what other sensor could cause this?

Other way around. i put manual belts in my 87. I got tired of replacing the tracks for the auto belts. im wondering if i can test then somehow, without my wife slamming into the dashboard.

I swapped the auto seatbelts in my 87 for the mech belts in my 86,but i cant tell if they even work. Is there any way to test them besides slamming on the brakes. I plan to let my family in this car so i want to make sure they are working properly. also the damned seatbelt alarm wont shutup!

87 Starion took a dump. I re-torqued the head, changed the plugs, and degreased the engine. Now it cuts outs and hesitates around 3k rpms and wont come back up till it drops to about 1k, sounds familiar. I have new clips on order from dads shop just because. I did pull my existing clips and re soldered them and cleaned up. Im not great at soldering but they definately went back in better than they came out but they got worse. now it will barely make it to 3k. it seems like a fuel problem even my af meter reads lean. i unplugged my o2 sensor to throw it into rich mode and no difference, is it true that unburned fuel can cause a lean reading?? Ive yet to check injectors, im too afraid. any chance of this being something other than a fuel issue? Reason being is because i changed plugs and degreased engine maybe i broke a sensor or something? Ive never had an ignition pulse error in this car before so i am a bit lost. The possibilities are to great. installed an 88 knock box earlier that week timing is right and champion plugs came pre-gapped at .45 maybe to large a gap?? any help is always appreciated.

possibly, but the car didn't do it before it sat for a month or so while i was fixing it. The door does creak alot and the hinges look out of place. the door itself will actually twist about a 1/4 inch or so both ways. it feels as if it will just fall off one day.