GCNTSi

Well if you want here's another one: http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/52/652/4/53/59/2760453590103494354wQJqmD_th.jpg http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/66/666/8/58/38/2710858380103494354thZdlq_th.jpg I know what this one is from, and it might be a little more difficult, so I'll give you a hint: It's made in the USA, if that helps at all. -GCNTSi.

I searched all the numbers on it and couldn't figure it out. Close enough for me to figure it out, it's a Chevy Uplander. Thanks! That was a different one, lol. When I get to the junkyard and they are doing the half price weekend I usually try to buy some stuff that I can turn around and sell online for some extra $. The Galant one was a few months back. But thanks, I'll be putting it on ebay now. -GCNTSi.

These were from a '97 GS-T, oem pistons and rods. The wastegate hose came off while racing and overboosted and detonated, then rod knock, I believe one rod (#3) was knocking, but these were stock so probably just need a .010 over turn, or just use the other three rods, they should be in good condition. http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/69/469/0/15/41/2806015410103494354dKhaPO_th.jpg http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/69/469/1/90/98/2160190980103494354mQcnnU_th.jpg If interested PM me. -GCNTSi.

I can't figure out what this headlight came off of: http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/69/469/2/51/26/2326251260103494354zxzJDD_th.jpg http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/69/469/8/69/55/2736869550103494354sVHMIE_th.jpg I pulled it off during the half price weekend at PickNPull, now trying to sell it but forgot what it goes to.? Anyone? Thanks, -GCNTSi.

I've got one of those, where do you get $225 for it? -GCNTSi.

I have one from my 88 that I recently removed w/94k miles on it, I believe they are the same from 87 to 88.? Let me know if you are interested and I'll get some pictures of it. -GCNTSi.

I've seen some that leak just a small amount of fuel, and after it gets kinda baked on there, the residue looks like oil, but it's actually old fuel. If you have fresh oil dripping somewhere that's probably a different story, but some brown kinda sticky residue is most likely gas. -GCNTSi.

Well he made it right with me, I just received the engine wire harness that I paid him for last fall. I didn't ever think I was going to see it but it came just as described. Thanks for completing the transaction, a little late (well a lot late) is better than never. -GCNTSi.

It seems that when the light comes on in my car I start running out of gas like right away. The light won't even be on solid, and the motor starts breaking up and the fuel pressure drops a bit. But my last Star would give me like 50 miles once the light came on solid? What could cause this? Isn't the light suppose to come on solid when there is about 2 gallons left? And the tank was dropped and cleaned out last summer after car sat for 6 years, installed all new filters, and Walbro255. -GCNTSi.

What kind were they? That's the problem I just had trying to install the Diforza pads. -GCNTSi.

I only applied heat to the claws of the caliper with it in a vice on the workbench. No fluid in it, and I had aluminum foil around the boot/piston. I know it probably was not the best idea now, sometimes I just get set in making something work and I wanted to use the $50 pads I bought that everyone had said they were the best for our cars when I bought them last fall. -GCNTSi.

I vote for you to shoot for this: http://www.geocities.com/toy_dakota/Dakota.jpg -GCNTSi.

Yeah just imagine what it would be like here in this country with no police. That dispatcher should be :hangman: and :character0056: at the same time. But she probably thought it was a prank, college students do it here all the time, pulling the fire alarm sending the fire truck to the dorm for no reason, making everyone exit the building in the middle of the night as if it's really funny. Once the building is actually on fire and dozens are killed because nobody took it seriously, the pranksters should be charged with manslaughter. And if they had lots of pranks in this case before the victim called they should charge those pranksters with involuntary manslaughter, if that's the case. But I'd want to hear the call, either way the dispatcher should have at least called back after hanging up even if she thought it was a prank. -GCNTSi.

I don't see why the calipers would be junk by heating them, they are exposed to lots of heat while in use. I'd bet lots more than what a little handheld Mapp gas torch will do. And the heat I applied was only to the very outer ears, or claws of the caliper, that touch the outside pad. I stayed well away from the piston boot, aiming in the direction away from the rubber boot. But after measuring the rotors and pads it's the pads that are too thick, I got some Autozone pads (since that was all I could find in town) and they fit just fine. I really wanted to use some good metallic pads but I'll have to try to exchange the oversized ones I got. The FSM doesn't list the max size of the rotors (that I could find), but the minimum thickness is 22.4mm or .88", and the new rotors I have measured to 24.6mm or .96". The manual shows the brake pads thickness to be 10mm or 0.39". The pads I was trying to put on were 11.1mm, or .4375" so they were the problem. Thanks for the input, -GCNTSi.

This is the front, and yes I compressed the piston all the way, it is completely flush with the body of the caliper. The reason for heating the caliper and bending it out is that my idea is that it previously got overheated and warped, when cooling it contracted around the pads that were on there. So I was simply trying to shape it back to factory form. At least that's my idea. But I'll measure the new rotors and if they're OK, probably just try some new (reman) calipers since they are pretty cheap. Thanks, -GCNTSi. Oh and the pads I filed with them level in a vice level, with a long flat file so they are still even, at least with naked eye.

Please elaborate Sully. I'm installing a set right now, I thought I heard lots of good things about them. But with that comment I'm a little worried, especially since I thought I was getting the GR-2's but the ones I got are the regular standard Excel-G. Are they really garbage? If so then the factory Tokico's I took out might be better. -GCNTSi.

So I'm installing some new rotors and pads along with Eibachs, but today I ran into a problem. With the new brake hardware on, the caliper wouldn't fit around the pads, they are too wide, or too thick. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem or if my caliper may have gotten warped.? The rotors are some cross drilled and slotted from some company in Cali, I forgot who but I think they are all the same manufacturer for our cars (look pretty cheap), and the pads are some metallic ones I got from *DM. I thought maybe the caliper was warped from heat but the piston collapsed smooth no problem so I don't think it was sticking, plus it didn't feel like it was sticking. But I'm wondering what I can do to fix this, without buying a new caliper. I did put the caliper in a vice and filed on the "claws" of the caliper without much luck, so I heated up the claws and pryed out on them, then dipped it in water, that seemed to help alot, but still not enough. I just needed like 1/16th", So then I put the pads themselves in the vice and used the file on them, I know now that was a BAD IDEA, even with a face respirator mask and goggles on, good in theory, but really bad idea. I got brake dust everywhere and still burned the eyes and nose, and hardly removed any material. I thought asbetos was no longer used in brake pads.? Anyway, So I heated the caliper again and bent it to the point that I was able to put the caliper on over the pads only just barley, but the rotor wouldn't turn as it should, as if the brake was being applied just barely, and the car doesn't want to roll on it's own like it should, only downhill. I know I won't drive it like this, just maybe back and forth in the driveway until enough pad material is worn away without too much heating of the assembly. But I think that will take forever. Any suggestions, anyone else had this problem? Thanks, GCNTSi.

They look sweet! If you find what they are, I'd be interested to know, for sure. -GCNTSi.

So I finally got around to installing the Eibachs today, at least the rears, and I was surprised to see how much they lowered the car. Looks like a little more than 2". It seems to hit the bump-stops on speed humps and tight turns. I will finish the front tomorrow (hopefully) but I was wondering if the bump-stops should be cut, or not??? Thanks, -GCNTSi.

Thanks JustPaus, I'll probably do that tomorrow, but I dunno if I can find a helper, they are getting few and far between these days. Any trick of doing it solo? -GCNTSi.

I would like to get out all the old fluid and replace it with new. Anyone know of the best way to drain whats in the system??? I know it would not be a good idea to run the car with a line open to drain it, as that would probably burn up the pump. -GCNTSi.

Damn another great resto, looks like your rebuilding it from the ground up with everything your doing. You might as well get a new title issued as a 2008! Looks great! Who polished the wheels? They look awesome! -GCNTSi.

That Looks AWESOME!!! :thumbsup: Very nice job, one of the best I've seen in a while. :kowtow: I'm jealous. But I'd recommend not running with that oil cap, I tried the same one (I think) and it leaked a little oil residue onto the VC, so I only use it when going to a meet now. But AWESOME CAR!!! Way to keep it on the road! I hope you have a nice garage for it, a cover, good insurance, and a damn good alarm! -GCNTSi.

Well you might try posting in the Virtual Mechanic section if you just want advice on engine building. But I personally would recommend rebuilding the internals strong first, if you add lots of bolt on power your bound to end up needing a internal rebuild before too long, unless your stock block is in real good condition. How many miles does it have, had you done a compression test before head gasket blew? But check out the HP club: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=8890 Alfonso G has a T3/T4 turbo on a stock block with a MPI system making 302HP, I'm sure many other upgrades also, probably a low mileage strong bottom end, but it shows it can be done. But depending on the bottom end's strength, and your budget, I'd go ahead and freshen up the bottom end while doing a new head. And I wouldn't really do any fuel management unless your talking about a full MPI system. Along with a good turbo+exhaust+fuel pump+good injectors with a proper tune you should be near 300 HP. Just be ready to become lots more involved than you planned, that's usually what happens with these cars, but they can be well worth it. -GCNTSi.

Try checking the secondary injector, possibly pigtail connector is bad, or clogged injector. When it bucks does it backfire and/or pop? Any clouds of smoke? If thats not the problem look for intercooler plumbing leaks, and vacuum leaks, particular at the FPR. -GCNTSi.