Leaderboard

First off let me start by saying, We all know Stedebani stopped producing these parts for our cars. And Quikconq was bold enough to go out on a limb and acquire the equipment to keep these in production. But, he has decided to move forward in other things. So, that being said. I would like to introduce you to GNT Performance Products. We are a small group consisting of myself and Duckheads. He is another member here on the forum. We would like to keep these parts available for our small tight knit community. so, here we go. We are offering a one time Group buy on these parts at current pricing. Suspension bush,,,,,,,,189 Diff mounts,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,109 Motor mounts,,,,,,,,,,,,,,109 Trans mount,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,69 Torque tube mount,,,,,,39 These prices are the same as they have been for years. However there WILL most likely be a price increase on purchases after this Group Buy. Which will be determined after we restock some of the inventory we already have. Unfortunately, the costs have gone up on materials to produce these parts. We will do our best to keep it at a minimal as possible. We will continue to produce these parts once we get going. but due to the lack of materials to reproduce these parts there will be a delay till we can make these products complete. Short throw shifters. Rear Hub bolts. Camber plates/ strut bars. But there is also Good news to be given as well. We have been working on some prototypes and will be offering new products now. We have some prototypes in the field and have gotten good feed back.... so we will also be offering. Front sway bar bushings........35 Camber plate gaskets............40 NOTE for the camber plate gaskets they will be sold for the front and rear of the car. They require drilling based on your camber settings....and bolt pattern. We didn't want to assume anybody's settings on there plates. These will help eliminate direct metal to metal contact between your plates and the car. When cut properly, will also help reduce water, mud and dust from your engine bay and rear hatch. They will come 3/16 thick and aid in noise as well. We soon hope to offer, Idler arm bushings Rear sway bar bushings for Flatty and Fatty alike....there is a difference between the 2 in the idler arm and rear sway bar bushings. These will hopefully be much sooner than later. Front control arm bolts Rear control arm bolts. ( even the eccentric one) These parts may take some time to get going so please bare with us We also plan to offer these parts year round to whomever needs them whenever they need them, after this Group buy is completed. Please include 3% for paypal fees and add an additional $15 to "your total order" for shipping. The more you order the more you will save on shipping. Sorry but we have to go this route. Shipping is not cheap. International purchases please PM me. If you chose to Gift the Payment that is your Choice but, we have all read the horror stories...Right. PLEASE INCLUDE WITH YOUR PAYMENT, USER NAME, REAL NAME, WHAT YOUR PURCHASE IS AND MAILING ADDRESS YOU WISH TO RECEIVE YOUR PARTS AT. Please send payment to cambe@csinet.net If there are any Questions, please feel free to contact me. Here are some Pics of the new bushings ready for shipping. http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r521/wrngwae/Mobile%20Uploads/image-5.jpg http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r521/wrngwae/Mobile%20Uploads/image-6.jpg I can post pics of the former parts sold but most you already know what they look like. ALSO, note, all parts will come with 85 shore Durometer red Poly and any exposed steel will be painted with Black oil based paint. Thank you for your time and business GNT Performance Products Tye aka Wrngwae mr-starion Torque tube mounts and single motor mount........paid.......Shipped 5-2-14 scott87star Camber plate gaskets..........PAID........shipping 3/26/14 RonnieJ Torque tube mounts Jeff714 Diff mounts..........paid..........shipped 3-17-14 87redcat Camber plate gaskets.........Paid................Shipped 4-21-14 quikconq Sway bar bushings JohnnyWadd Camber plate gaskets Potamus Sway bar bushings/front...........paid..........shipped 4-3-14 creakyjoints camber plate gaskets......Paid.....shipped 4-25-14 randy Sway bar bushing kit....when rears are developed. STAR89QUEST suspension bushing kit, torque tube mount, front sway bar set, and motor mount set..........Paid....... Shipped 3/25/14 dmyers151 Diff, Torque tube and Trans.......Paid.........Shipped..........4-21-14 TsiJay Rear control arm bushing set.......Paid......shipped 3/28/14 KIDMEN Camber Plate Gaskets.........Paid.....Shipped 4-21-14

Yes stock location stock replacement manifold. The only difference is im using DSM inlet flanges. They have a slightly larger inlet opening but will fit DSM, Evo 3, and OEM turbos.

So that's it... these 1st (5) are priced @ $100 savings, & 6th - ? will be $699? Looks nice as I new it would! Trying to recall... were you also gonna ofter this w/ dump? Thanx!

very good link http://www.mkosonen.com/mattsmswiring.gif

There oils contain no Molly except for the one I posted...it's full of Molly when you pore it out it's a dark metallic grey. It actually feels wrong as you put it in but from previous cars that I know that used when the engine was taken apart you could see the bearing surfaces had a grey hue to them

one real touchy part is finding TDC,, now you can count on the oreg tdc marks to be very close ,, when doing this you MUST stop valve action to all valves one #1 cyl , easyest way is to lossen the rocker arm assy you'l need a long piston stop aprox 70mm long lets see if pics will load http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10009/Jan08%5E06a.jpg a 70mm stop should stop the piston at aprox 25 befor tdc , you adjust your pointer till both before and after tdc numbers match , once you have both numbers matching , turning the crank to tdc puts you at exact TDC oh yea do not install a piston stop at tdc or close to tdc http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10009/Jan08%5E05a.jpg in order to have a flat surface for the dial indicator i bolted a metal bar across the cam tower , now the top of the valve retainer is not flat eather but a thin flat magnet works great preload the dial indicator ..500" or so then find the flat on the cam lobe base set the dial to 0 maybe a better pichttp://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10009/Jan08%5E04a.jpg once you have the degree wheel on the crank made sure it is tight enought to turn crank in both directions , also if your timeing chain and guides are not up to par stop wasteing your time ok you now have an exact TDC mark , bolt the rocker arm assy back down ,,all you need to do now is to make sure the lifter has (0) lash , with a hyd lifter bleed the oil out of it and place feeler gauge arms under the end to obtain a zero lash rotate the engine and watch the dial indicator for any movement stop the instant you see valve movement and record the numbers , contine rotateing the crank untill the valve reads 0 again , take note of that number,, do this 4 or 5 times untill yu get the same number every time , read the degree wheel and add up the degrees the valve was off it's seat this is you open to close full duration reading from that you can tell what cam you have with out a special adjustable cam gear your simply doing this for info only,, none of this is hard but it can be frustrateing like a lot of things done for the first time my personal opnion or what i like to do is set the cam 3 degrees advanced , timeing chains and gears a not static, they wear and what you have today and what the timeing is 10k later will be greatly diff,, and those 3 degrees give just a bit longer haveing the cam in time the magnetic dial indicator stand and the dial indicator cost me less then $20 at harbor freight , piston stop you can make out of an old spark plug by breaking out the center and rounding a 8 mm bolt head and welding it into the houseing at the proper length , degree wheel can be hard at about any parts store http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10009/degree%20whl%20mark.JPG any thing you need cleared up about , give me a ring or ask here in the thread so others can read it

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformance/photo_zps37d6271b.jpg

Motörhead - Ace Of Spades http://youtu.be/1iwC2QljLn4

Did you make sure your 12v power wire at the ECM going to the ignitor has 12v while cranking. Not just key on it needs it cranking also. I see a ground off it the pic with you holding up the broken connector also. The one that bolts to the lower intake.