Turbo_Addict Posted March 26, 2010 Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 Well here she is - driveshaft came out perfect, installed, and maiden voyage around the block was completed. I can speedshift that thing like crazy now - I about burned the rears off hitting second a couple times - very nice! The only things I noticed is that when in neutral and clutch is completely out, that I can hear some throwout bearing noise (at least I suspect thats what that is...) but it seemed to dissipate a lot after it was warmed up and driven around for a little while. Also, when downshifting, getting into 1st from 2nd is really tough but I am sure that's the transmission - I bought this thing from a bone yard and have no idea of its history, so I may be doing a rebuild down the road. But it's completely driveable... no grinding at all, reverse lights work, speedo works perfectly - just absolutely loving it! Just waiting on my leather shift boot to finish up, but other than that - its done. Went with a hurst t-handle with momentary switch for the nitrous. I like it... works for me. http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/r154-46.jpg http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/r154-47.jpg http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/r154-48.jpg http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/r154-49.jpg http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/r154-50.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitsusqueeshee Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 Here is the big question. How does it feel gear ratio wise? Comparing to the stocker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo_Addict Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 (edited) Here is the big question. How does it feel gear ratio wise? Comparing to the stocker. It feels outstanding! 1st and 2nd seem to be a bit 'longer' which I really like because I always felt that they were too short on the stocker. I really need to get it to the track to completely feel everything out in a controlled environment, but from my first impressions... everything just feels 'right' - better than before, it just feels more proper. Edited March 29, 2010 by Turbo_Addict Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VICE Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 (edited) First gear is DEFINITELY much better and a longer pull, every gear shifted soo smoothly and it just felt like it was right, not scared to shift at high RPMs... I loved the Supra tranny set up if it wasn't for all the clutch friction discs it kept braking I would have kept it in. (NOTE mine was a hack weld job it did not have these machined bolt ons) If everything is good and nothing ever brakes with this set up I strongly recommend it to anyone wit a StarQuest, either the Supra tranny or the T56 six speed tranny I am leaning more towards myself very soon.. Are definitely better than the skinny stocker trannys.. Edited March 29, 2010 by VICE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo_Addict Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 I'll put her through the paces and do what I can to test any potential breakages of clutch disks - when I spray it, it's making over 530 ft/lb of torque, so any weak links should be quickly apparent. Also, shift boot finally came in today - I like it... it almost looks like it is supposed to be this way. http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/r154-51.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VICE Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 The boot looks real cool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo_Addict Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 The boot looks real cool! Thanks, $8.99 ebay special. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VICE Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 How did U get the bottom to stay so neatly? Those universal shift boots are soft all around, with no wire base.. I want a black one.. =D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo_Addict Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 How did U get the bottom to stay so neatly? Those universal shift boots are soft all around, with no wire base.. I want a black one.. =D I just used the screws (made tiny holes through the boot) in the bottom of the plastic that hold the two pieces together for the rear and sides of it, and on the front there are no screws there, but I just hot glued it into place up there. Seems to work just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitsusqueeshee Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 Glad to hear the gear ratios are compatible, and a longer first defiantly helps. Bill voiced some concerns over that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_V Posted March 31, 2010 Report Share Posted March 31, 2010 Wow...finally the R154 has arrived.. Great Work Bill! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hincher Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 I wasnt real happy with the finish 'look' of the original set up so I wanted to include some strength with styleso I went back to the original pattern and made some changeshttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr154.JPG I added two ribs at the top and thinned the existing ribs, so I wouldnt gain any wieght, I needed to raise the roof of the housing on the inside , so I needed to add material at the top, I decided to do it in a way to add diagonal ribs in the system, so the added structure was in the 'crown' of the housing without adding too much material and keeping the weight down while adding torsional strengthhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1541.JPGhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1542.JPGhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1543.JPGhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1544.JPGhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1545.JPG I needed to add material to the starter bolts, for some reason, they had shrunk too much during casting. I wanted to build a direct bolt system and that included using the same bolts as the OEM set uphttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1546.JPGhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1547.JPGhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1548.JPG I will be shortening the back by about 3/8 in and adding 1/4 inch in the front so I can move the clutch fork back about 12mm , I wanted to move the folcrum piont in the throw out bearing back so it could not bind, I felt it was better to allow the fork to push instead of pull the bearing I will have it in casting the end of this week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hincher Posted April 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 I dropped down the back half by 1/4 inch, I will be adding 3/8 inch on the bellhousing sidehttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr154%20001.JPGhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr154%20002.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted April 25, 2010 Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 Any chance you can add a little length to push the shifter location back? One off these is really tempting me. I see a clutch and tyranny replacement in the near future. I do not really want to put in another worn out stocker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hincher Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 the shifter is just about right for the G54b, its within 1/2 in of the original Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hincher Posted May 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2010 here I am again, sanding and sanding and correctingI subtracted 1/4 off the back and added 7/16 inch on the front to back away from the clutch and flywheel so you can add anyclutch you want, plus I moved the throw out bearing folcrom back 1/2 so I had more travel in the throw out bearing bodyhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock172.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock173.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock174.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock175.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock176.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock177.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock178.jpg I added a much more pronounced flnge area at the fronthttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock179.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock180.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock181.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock182.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock183.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themitsubishifreak Posted May 28, 2010 Report Share Posted May 28, 2010 looks awesome as always keep us updated!!! you the man. nice to have you aboard the starquest community. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hincher Posted June 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 this is the second gen casting of the wide block R154, it fits much better and the thickness is adjusted in all the right places http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock189_jpg.jpg the flow of the casting is much nicer, this has a much nicer finish look to ithttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock193_jpg.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock196_jpg.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock199_jpg.jpg I dig the diagonal lines in the housing, that adds wall thickness to the radius of the curve in the housing and torsional strength for the twisting motionhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock200_jpg.jpg the demensions worked out the have the right wall thickness in the right areas to build strength without much wieght penaltyhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock202_jpg.jpg the throw out bearing was moved back 1/2 inch to get a better pivot point on the folcrum of the clutch forkhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock204_jpg.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock205_jpg.jpg the depth was absolutly correct and it is a direct ft to the G54 engine using all the same clutch parts that came standard on the carquest with the exception of a $45.00 disc from a Supra 7me enginehttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock206_jpg.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock207_jpg.jpg I have the throw out bodies built at the casting shop now , they are lighter and much easier to build http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock185_jpg.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock186_jpg.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VICE Posted November 13, 2010 Report Share Posted November 13, 2010 I am about ready to order one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hincher Posted November 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2010 I gotta, Gotta, gotta finish this work on the Subaru W series and R series Toyota trans this week, just to get into casting, then I can build you the R series wide block and drive shaft http://www.billsautofab.com/images/01Subw55.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/08Subw55.jpghttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/10Subw55.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor16.JPGhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor28.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor58.JPGhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor72.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor80.JPGhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor82.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor84.JPGhttp://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor88.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VICE Posted November 14, 2010 Report Share Posted November 14, 2010 Niice.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted November 18, 2010 Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 you wouldnt happen to make a Toyota 1UZFE to Toyota W58 or R154 bell housing would you? w/ Fork NOT HYD.The Lexus guys would love you,and they actually have money to spen, not like Cheap tail starquesters! HEE HEEHell id like a 1UZFE to T56 too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hincher Posted November 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 just the T 56 , JZ guys can afford it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hincher Posted September 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 Bill this is some awesome work. I've spent the last hour drooling over your fab work. I just rebuilt my W58 this past summer. I got a newer W58 from a lexus but it wasn't a direct swap. I ended up cannibalizing the 2 to make one good one. If I would have done a little more research here first I would have loved to have used the 154. Thanks for supporting our community. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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