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Yes another 2JZGTE


serpentkilla
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Ah.. yes.. if I read your profile I'd a seen that.

 

I'm going to be in Aberdeen MD all next week and I was gonna grab a peek at your mobile if you were close.

 

 

Actually vettekiller isn't far from there. When r u leaving? I can prob meet up on the weekend my weekdays suck afrs.

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speaking of codes.. So the ECU is from an automatic but im putting in a 154. Dose it matter being that im using the AEM unit? I tried to get the cost of the engine down but they said if i dont take the auto tranny its only $75 bucks off lol. Anything helps I guess. The IRS is killing me with the refund delays and school check isnt comming till mid march (paint money).
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I fly in Monday late... out first thing Friday morning. Only open time is Tues Morn before noon.

 

Welp i guess i will be meeting you another day then, you should take a trip up in may.

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speaking of codes.. So the ECU is from an automatic but im putting in a 154. Dose it matter being that im using the AEM unit? I tried to get the cost of the engine down but they said if i dont take the auto tranny its only $75 bucks off lol. Anything helps I guess. The IRS is killing me with the refund delays and school check isnt comming till mid march (paint money).

 

Does not matter, it will run just fine.

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speaking of codes.. So the ECU is from an automatic but im putting in a 154. Dose it matter being that im using the AEM unit? I tried to get the cost of the engine down but they said if i dont take the auto tranny its only $75 bucks off lol. Anything helps I guess. The IRS is killing me with the refund delays and school check isnt comming till mid march (paint money).

 

If your auto trans comes with the front section of the drive shaft... and you aren't going to use the Auto... I'd be interested in that.

Mine didn't come with the front section and the three fingered drive shaft flange isn't what I would call "common".

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ok az ill tell them to include the tranny unless they can ship me a 154 instead

 

If you aren't going to get the tranny (might save on shipping) see if they have the front part of the drive shaft. Many I see advertised show the flange and about 6" of the drive shaft. I could use the flange and the rubber donut/isolator that goes with it.

 

But don't screw urself over if they want to charge extra money or something.

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Well... got some good work in on my project.

 

I don't know if it is specific to the Auto Trans... but without dangling the motor by it's water pump, no way, no how, was it going in the engine bay with the trans attached without removing the radiator support bracket.

 

For those that have done the swap... how much room do you have between the oil pan and the main cross member? How much room from the back of the head to the firewall? Distance from the radiator support bracket and front of the engine?

 

There is a brace that runs from the exhaust manifold (right next to the exhaust flange for the down pipe) to the block. That brace and the stud in the manifold that it attached to were not going to clean the motor mount. I removed both. Is this a common thing you guys have seen with your installs?

 

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd268/Soup756/Conquest%202JZ%20Photos/My%202JZ/EngineInstallfirstfit002.jpg

 

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd268/Soup756/Conquest%202JZ%20Photos/My%202JZ/EngineInstallfirstfit004.jpg

 

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd268/Soup756/Conquest%202JZ%20Photos/My%202JZ/EngineInstallfirstfit008.jpg

Edited by AzStar
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Well...You have to jack the car up and angle the motor more to do it without cutting...but...it looks good either way. Was your car an auto Az?

 

The only other configuration I could have managed would have left the rear wheels on the ground. That might have helped. We didn't run out of room under the car, we were hard against the firewall with intake/head.

 

Yes my car was originally an automatic, the failure of the transmission is what pushed me onto this path to perdition!

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So do you got it bolted in Az or just sitting there for now...Mine is just sitting...lol..I suck at the mounts...

 

It is sitting. I have been following MAD DAX's plans for motor mounts. The plates to the block are in and the stock Mitsu mounts have been ground apart. I have the trans mount under the trans but it is just supporting it. I have a 2x4 (less than 2") laying between the frame cross member and the engine.

 

Thus my questions up here concerning clearance between different land marks. I need to spend some quality time now aligning the engine, etc. and then we tack weld the mounts. I may have clearance issues with the transmission out put shaft and the OEM shifter. Won't know until I locate the engine and see what I am working with.

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you dont need the bell housing with the auto tranny...

 

 

DAX...

He says he has the 154 manual.

 

I have the auto...

 

Do you have any measurements laying around for your oil pan to crossmember clearance? I know your other specs may differ because you have the 1JZ. I am trying to find how deep my engine should sit into the bay... and want to make sure how about engine to firewall clearance. Right now it seems as if I'm too far forward. I suspect I am too high as well.

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DAX...

He says he has the 154 manual.

 

I have the auto...

 

Do you have any measurements laying around for your oil pan to crossmember clearance? I know your other specs may differ because you have the 1JZ. I am trying to find how deep my engine should sit into the bay... and want to make sure how about engine to firewall clearance. Right now it seems as if I'm too far forward. I suspect I am too high as well.

 

Those motor mount plates set mine about 1/2 to 3/4 inch from firewall....my pan is about 1/4 inch above the cross member. And remember I am using the stock sway bar as well....sure helps protect the pan too...my sway bar is getting a flat spot on it from fast dips and RxR crossings.

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Those motor mount plates set mine about 1/2 to 3/4 inch from firewall....my pan is about 1/4 inch above the cross member. And remember I am using the stock sway bar as well....sure helps protect the pan too...my sway bar is getting a flat spot on it from fast dips and RxR crossings.

 

Thanks for the measurements....

 

On the swaybar... did you shorten your endlinks or stay with the oem length? Doesn't lowering the sway bar like that in relationship to the end lengths change the "leverage" for the lack of a better word?

 

You also lowered your car tho didn't you? (ref ur dips and RxR crossing)

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Thanks for the measurements....

 

On the swaybar... did you shorten your endlinks or stay with the oem length? Doesn't lowering the sway bar like that in relationship to the end lengths change the "leverage" for the lack of a better word?

 

You also lowered your car tho didn't you? (ref ur dips and RxR crossing)

 

Ooops also for clarification when you say pan you mean the pan area directly above the crossmember is 1/4 " and not the forward sump right?

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