Jump to content

Idles Okay - Won't Rev Above 2000-2500 (Added Video & Photo)


PAFirefighter11
 Share

Recommended Posts

Yes. You must have that in order to get anywhere at all... Do you know where to wire it?

 

Beautiful. Nope, I do not. There are approx 4-5 wires that are spliced right now. I think you can somewhat see them in that photo. Some of the wires are the same color w/ the same runner color as well... :o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The picture with the red arrow, looks like the wires from the plug are just cut? That sensor has two wires to it one is yellow with a green stripe and the other is black -the top of the T is the black wire.

 

That broken one you show is just to turn off the a/c compressor when the coolant is above like 212 degrees you do not need that for the car to run. That wire is yellow with a white stripe.

 

You can't have vacuum hoses off so if in doubt plug them and cap ports but don't put them somewhere just because you see a place for a hose to go it could make it worse.

 

The gauge sensor is also a T shape plug, its below the ones you show and the two wires to it are yellow with blue (looks like green after 20 years so unwrap and be sure or vice versa) and this is at the top of the T in the plug, the other wire is yellow with green stripe. If there is still a part of the original covering of the harness the two wires for the gauge sensor and ecu sensor were separated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All vacuum lines are routed and look proper per my diagrams. The Sensor with a "T" has two yellow/green runner wires coming off of it. This is spliced. Today I spliced the proper wire into the black line per photos on that other Starion/Conquest forum post. The other wire matches 3 other yellow/green runner wires that are openly spliced .. doing nothing.

 

The plugs I pulled to check, they aren't perfect, but not horrible.. here's a cell phone shot (I took real photos too .. will upload tonight if I get a sec):

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs199.snc1/6733_124655996079_502471079_2904310_4412500_n.jpg

 

Cleaned them off, checked gap, it's at .044. Put them back in.

 

Car did NOT run fine on first cold start today. Still idles fine. Hesitates and tries to die when slowly hitting the gas, but if you hit the gas hard enough it will run up to 2500 RPM, sometimes higher if I hit the gas harder. It then continues doing the "redline/rev limiter" bounce.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those plugs are damned awful and all fouled out. Don't expect to be able to even drive a car with plugs that bad. Media blast them or trash can them its no wonder the car won't run. Cranking and cranking the fuel still sprays. The wrong injector plugged in for the primary, non sealing piston rings, wrong pcv valve or non functioning oil separator, leaking injector, dirty injector, wrong injector size, intercooler plumbing leak, leaking BOV, torn accordian hose or leak from the MAS to the turbo inlet. Unplug the green/blue colored injector the car should start and idle. The pipe to the throttlebody and ALL other must be on before you start the car. There can be zero leaks from the air filter to the throttlebody because this is a MAS fuel system. It may say Chrysler but its 100% Mitsubishi. You said new injectors....from where what kind are they original, aftermarket, what CCs are they? The ECU can only use the same CCs as OEM or very slightly different unless you have a device to modify your MAS signal and correct the injector pulse like a MAF-T or SAFC etc.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know if anyone asked or you have the manual but I've heard in the past where people thought that the holes drilled in the crank pulley were timing marks that is not true. The timing mark is a cut in the inner most flange that meets up at the timing cover. The timing is to be set at 10BTDC after the motor is (the coolant) fully warmed up. You mention it was retarded 5 degrees not sure what you meant by that.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok heres a tip, 80% of all the problems with this car is in the wireing and connections

when some one says CLEAN the inj terminals they mean just that,,and this can not be done while they are in place on the engine , even replaceing the inj pig tails is only 1/2 the job,, does no good at all if the new clips can't make a good connection to the inj because of corrosion,,

keep in mind this TBI system runs on ONE inj at a time not 4 or 6 ;)

 

heres a resource that will help you thru the entire experiance and others

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewforum.php?f=1...6a676479c2224ed

 

but it will only help if you use it and read what it tells you AND do what it tells you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive had the exact same problem, took me a year to find it.

 

 

go to the rear of the car, in the trunk under the carpet drivers side next to the spare there is a small insp door. remove the screw and open the door. u will see the top of the gas tank and the pump..

 

take some pliers and remove the hose going to the pump, inside the pump inlet flange there will be a small cone filter. if its not there check the hose end. once u find it, is it full of crud. if so then your tank is rusted and the flack off of it is clogging your fuel system.

 

 

its is a common ploblem when the cars sit for years...

 

 

hope this helps

 

jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i get the impression your trying to do this with out any research at all,, most if not all the questions you've ask'd are explain'd in the first chaptor of the factory service manual you can down load from this site,,

a few moments reading it will save you many hours of hair pulling

 

also almost any thing you can think of doing is cover'd in the SOS manual on starquest i-x ,, make use of it,, PQ spent 100's of hours makeing it up for guys just like you

 

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewforum.php?f=1...838b46f05b3c5fb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...