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For those doing 302 Ford 5.0/T5 swaps...


helrazr70
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I got my slave cylinder figured out. I had very little clearance to mount an early Mustang style aftermarket kit and I couldn't use a pull type slave because of my headers...

 

I did it with easy to find parts.

 

It was cheap!

 

This way you don't have to relocate your gas pedal or beat the floorpan in as badly. It's also easier than engineering a cable system.

 

I have less than $20 in the slave and bracketry. I used a 80's/90's Toyota 4X4 slave cylinder ($13.16 at AutoZone) and a piece of 1/4" thick steel that I paid less than $2.00 for at TSC. The steel piece I used already had some holes drilled into it, but they weren't where I needed them. I will make another one using this one as a template from a solid steel strip one day--for now this one is fine.

 

I used a grinder and drill to mount the slave to the steel and then made the assembly fit the trans case using 2 eyelets cast into the trans housing. All the stress from the slave actuation will be on the bracket and trans case, not the bellhousing. The slave pushes the fork through a hole drilled in the bellhousing. It won't have as much leverage as the factory intended where the pushrod will hit the fork, but it will work fine. It may just add a little more pedal effort, but not much. The MG guys that are running 5.0/T5's are using a similar set-up with no problems.

 

You can use your stock clutch pedal, clutch master cylinder and reservoir. A custom -3 or -4 braided line can be made or you can use a combination of rubber and metal brake lines found at any auto parts store. (slave uses 10mm 1.0 pitch thread fitting) You could possibly use an adapter fitting and connect a Toyota rubber line directly into the SQ metal line at the junction bracket for the stock slave cylinder. (I would have done that, but I cut my metal line when I thought I was going with a hydraulic throw out bearing.)

 

It's also easy to bleed because the bleeder screw points downward.

 

Find an threaded adjustable push rod and then drill a hole in the fork. With a couple of jam nuts you will be ready to go!

 

http://www.digitalimagehosting.com/imagestore/messageboard/helrazr70/slave2.jpg

 

http://www.digitalimagehosting.com/imagestore/messageboard/helrazr70/slave1.jpg

 

http://www.digitalimagehosting.com/imagestore/messageboard/helrazr70/slave3.jpg

Edited by helrazr70
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I will post write-ups with pics as I clear the major hurdles that cause people to give up on 302 swaps. Eventually I will pull them all together and maybe get them made into a sticky.
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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
i just swapped my pull type slave to this setup this weekend and it works great.i paid about 80 bucks for my original slave from summit,couldnt get enough throw went back and bought a wilwood master cyl ''40 bucks'' and it was a little better but still not there.20 bucks this weekend and my clutch works great now.i wish this was around when i started my build,good writeup chris
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  • 1 month later...

http://cnc.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/13631/1312

 

part# CNC 1312

 

You can look elsewhere online. The above link is just one I found quickly. I got mine on ebay for $9.95+$2.95 shipping.

 

They run about $10-$15.

 

I trimmed mine to fit.

Edited by helrazr70
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  • 3 years later...

That was 4 years ago and I couldn't tell you where that picture disc is. I have move three times since then.

 

The image hosting site they were hosted on went under so I am afraid I am not much help at this point.

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