Professor Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 My car has always run hot. I had the radiator rodded out last fall. I switched to the flex fan and shroud, but it was always on the edge. I finally had to fix it. I got a Summit Chevy style radiator that measures 25 3/4 X 19. They didn't have anything less than 19" unless you want to pay $378. This one was $178 with handling charge. Everything fit real nice except it was 1" too tall. The radiator cap hit the hood. The only logical way to fix it was to modify the stabilizer bar brackets. This allowed the radiator to sit 1" lower and clear the hood. I had to cut off about 1.5" off the lower hose connection and use a 90 degree hose connection to connect the water pump. I have a 180 stat in it and the temp gauge comes up to 180 and that is it. I have an Autometer temp gauge so I know exactly what the temp is. I wish I would have done this months ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 Is that a two row? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted March 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 It is 2 rows of 1" tubes. It has a machined neck anodized blue for the cap. The radiator looks like it's twice as thick as the stock radiator. It is probably 1" thicker, I'm just guessing because I didn't measure it. If I still lived in Phoenix, I would definitely need one of these. Remember, to install one of these, you need to cut and weld the stabilizer brackets. Professor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89onaquest Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 I was looking at getting one of those, nice to know it will fit with slight modifacation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty Posted March 13, 2004 Report Share Posted March 13, 2004 you can also cut off the cap and weld it(flat) shut and install an "inline" cap assembly in the top hose. saw it on the v8 car w the same radiator at the Va meet It had no trouble with the hood . http://www.t-racing.com/Image%20file/VA_Meet04/DSC05862.JPG http://www.t-racing.com/Image%20file/VA_Meet04/DSC05863.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted March 15, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2004 I looked at putting in an inline water neck and cap but I didn't like two things about it. 1. The top water hose is about 2.5 inches below the top of the tank. 2. The water neck and cap in the hose is lower than the top of the radiator. This creates the problem of filling the radiator. I didn't want to jack up the car to get the water to flow, to fill the radiator. This was a problem I had with a Covair I built with a Mid engine 455 Olds. I had to jack up the front of the car to get the water to flow to the engine. The inline water neck is an option that would have been easier but I was concerned about filling the radiator. Plus, the inline water neck is $32 from JEG's and most would have to pay to get the stock neck cut off and welded up. Now the inexpensive radiator is not so. I did find a place in Michigan that would make drawings from your specs. and send them to you for your approval and then make you a custom radiator for $378. That's not bad! I think their turn arround time was like two days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted March 15, 2004 Report Share Posted March 15, 2004 Professor, post pics of the completed setup if you can. I have seen those blue neck radiators and they look like they are griffins. i am wondering why yours didnt fit if its a griffin. mine has no clearance issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted March 15, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2004 I have to get my wifes pictures off the camera so I can use it. I'll try to do it tonite or tomorrow. The radiator is 19" tall and from the stabilizer bar bracket to the hood inner panel is less than 19". Remember my car is an 85.5. Maybe the later models are a little taller. Professor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted March 15, 2004 Report Share Posted March 15, 2004 thats strange, there should be a little more space than 19 and it shouldnt be any different between the years. all i had to remove was that stupid rubber thing in the middle. here is what my radiator looks like. its going back in saturday. i had to make room for this monster fan i just got. the core is 19x21 and the overall size is 19.5 x 25.5 http://www.antimpower.com/My%20Car/88%20Starion/radiator.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Questsi Posted March 15, 2004 Report Share Posted March 15, 2004 hey Art, I see you powdercoated your turbo housing. I like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 its just 1200F spray paint and it looks like it clunged to the surface pretty good. the compressor better not get that hot i was gona powerder coat but some said it may not stand the radiant heat. the 1200F stuff only come in flat colors. if you want gloss, you can use Brake caliper paint. brake caliper paint is rated at 900F vs. the engine paints which are rated at 500F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WTFISIT Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 AbsoluteRadiator.com sells a nice alluminum that should fit nicely for $375. from Vince at absoluteradiator.com The Koyo S13 radiator is 26" wide (from ouside of side stap to outside of side strap), and 17.5" tall (top of top tank to bottom of bottom tank) (filler neck, mounting pins and drain extend beyond this mesurement). Hose fittings are 1 3/8" and located at upper driver's side and lower passenger's side. It's listed on their site as 'S13 radiator (240SX w/SR20DET engine, JDM configuration)'. Haven't purchased one yet, but It's on my short list of possible replacements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zactek Posted March 18, 2004 Report Share Posted March 18, 2004 I've got an GM aluminum 19x26 radiator on mine. Instead of chopping things on the bottom near the chassis, I bored a hole thru the hood whre the rad. cap didn't clear and installed vents over the hole (and the other side of the hood to match) on the outside. Not for everyone, but clears everything and works for me, hehe! ;D I've got pics, but don't have a website :'( Â Â Â Â Zack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted March 18, 2004 Report Share Posted March 18, 2004 send it to me, i will post it. artinist@earthlink.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted March 25, 2004 Report Share Posted March 25, 2004 I dont understand why your radiators dont fit under the hood. mine seems to be at the same height as yours yet mine clears the hood without any mods. there is a little indentation right at that spot over the cap. Here is zacteks setup. I will post some of mine after I finalize and rubbercoat my mounting brakets this weekend. http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/misc/radiator/zactekrad1.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/misc/radiator/zactekrad2.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/misc/radiator/zactekrad3.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted March 25, 2004 Report Share Posted March 25, 2004 here is professor' setup. http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/misc/radiator/professor1.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/misc/radiator/professor2.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/misc/radiator/professor3.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted March 29, 2004 Report Share Posted March 29, 2004 here is my griffin setup. i still havent figured out what i am going to do with the thermostatic switch. i want to use the factory sensor somehow by either welding a nut to the radiator so i can screw it in or by welding a nut to a pipe that would go somewhere inbetween the lower radiator hose. If i connect up both fans, feels like Storm from X-men is under the hood. i tell you 2300 cfm is noisy but 4000cfm is really loud. they do draw a lot of power too. when i first turned on both, the blew the 30 amp fues so i have 2x25s feeding the monsters. i have the connecter disconnected to the pusher fan because i doubt it will ever be needed unless its a day on the road race track. with just the main fan, the gauge drops within seconds to the minimum temp of the thermostat. http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/misc/radiator/myrad1.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/misc/radiator/myrad2.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/misc/radiator/myrad3.jpg http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/misc/radiator/myrad4.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pure_insanity Posted March 31, 2004 Report Share Posted March 31, 2004 hey guys, i noticed yall are runing rads with the tanks on the sides instead of on top and bottom.. does this offer any differences? also what did you do to mount the radiator at the bottom? top is fairly self explanatory . i would like to use the simple easy cradle at the bottom but im not sure if the core can take this weight with the tanks on the sides. art. you mentioned you have 2 fans but i only saw one, is the other as a pusher on the opposite side? i just had to swap the rad. from my 87. pulled it and found it was rotted to hades and back so i stole the one from my other car thats awaiting a full engine build. ill need to replace it when i put the car back together. a good friend has a 3 core rad. from a 70 model camaro thats damm near new. i havent checked the dimensions of it yet but im thinking itll be pretty close to ours. any thoughts about how effective it will be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zactek Posted March 31, 2004 Report Share Posted March 31, 2004 I don't know what Artinist and Professor did with the bottom of their rads. but I used the 2 stock mounting holes (for the half-round metal bracket with a rubber bushing) to bolt 2 separate 1 1/2 in. wide metal brackets with 1/4 in. rubber bumpers to support the core in the middle. They sit about 5in. apart. I'm also using a 16in. SS flexfan (no shroud) and it seems to never get more than a 1/3 on the temp gauge. In the summer tho, sitting in traffic for hours, I use my aux. 1650cfm pusher fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted March 31, 2004 Report Share Posted March 31, 2004 the reason the tanks are on the side is becuase thats what available cheap. these are meant for older camaros. mine is just sitting on the end tanks on 1/8" thick layer of rubber to insulate metal to metal contact. its just sitting on the suspension arms. at the bottom i just made a small "L" bracket to prevent the bottom from moving towared the engine under hard accelerations. at the top, i have one "Z" looking bracket on each side. by nature it seems to want to stay in place rather than move around. zactek has a nice bracket welded to the radiator that bolts to the factory location. i use one pusher, one puller fan. you can see the other one here: http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/eb.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted March 31, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2004 When I modified the stabilizer brackets at the bottom, I made the rubber pads from a stock Chevy truck cross flow radiator fit. You can see the rubber mount in the picture showing the bottom of the radiator. They are grooved to fit on the end tank seam and the radiator just sits on them. Then I just used one in the middle on the top. I have a 16" flex fan with no shroud and so far the engine has never got over 180. They say a cross flow radiator will out cool a vertical flow radiator and the aluminum radiator is 40% lighter weight. They also say that a two row aluminum radiator will out cool a 5 row copper/brass radiator. I don't know if this is true but my engine stays cool! Professor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALANFROMPDX Posted April 13, 2004 Report Share Posted April 13, 2004 I found a water neck with a cap from an eclipse that works on our cars. Anyone seen this. nice mod guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyclone Posted June 13, 2004 Report Share Posted June 13, 2004 Hey,Artinist ;D Do you remember what brand and part number your radiator is?? Where can I get one? Thanks, Bill 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted June 14, 2004 Report Share Posted June 14, 2004 Its a "Griffin 26x19 chevy". summit part# GRI-1-25222-X Its $180 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...2D1%2D25222%2DX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotpocket Posted August 16, 2004 Report Share Posted August 16, 2004 Since Art uses a crossflow radiator with the tanks on the side, it would be easy to modify the radiator to fit even lower, if you don't mind losing about four tubes at the bottom. I'm sure a good aluminum welder could modify it for you. Don't know what the cost would be though! May cost you about another hundred bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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