WTFISIT

Good luck chromepuff. When you're ready, please provide comparison dyno sheets, price, and your PayPal address. ;D : ;D

I will definitely keep my eyes on this, just in case I do win that jackpot. I must admit that the idea has an immense "Wow" factor and their site does a great job of selling the concept. One downfall is that a key benefit of the SRV head seams to be it's ability to scale up to very high RPM, something that I don't know how well our tired old long stroke motor can do. Maybe with a destroke and some lighter rods and pistons, but then you're basicall redesigning the whole engine. At that point I wonder if a swap might not just be a better solution. Now, a 4g63 SRV head would certainly have a bigger market to sell to. That might make me consider a swap. ;D Good luck!

If I win the Lottery, I promise that I will fund the development of a SRV head for the quest. Short of that, I don't see how this would be possible. I don't even want to guess what the engineering/development cost for this would be. NU-Tech, were they able to give you any type of a ball-park for a 4 cylinder head? They must have some idea.

I think that Joel is mistaken, or is thinking about the E & F SDS systems. I think that with the D, you need to leave the entire stock ignition in place. You'll want both the mechanical and vacuum advance.

I cropped and scaled the image a bit to make it a better fit. http://chaostrophe.com/quest/hotrodtsi_dyno.png

Many of the wide bands these days have a simulated "old school" O2 sensor output that you can tie to your computer. The lambdaboy, which I have, jus has an output that goes high/low either side of stoich, so I suppose if the ECU is really expecting to see a varying voltage it could be a problem. I haven't used the simulated output though, so I don't really know if it's an issue.

Don't trust your narrow band O2. Â If you are really trying to make power, you will blow your engine up. Â Search these boards for wideband. Â There have been several threads recently. Â I think you can get a decent unit these days for less than $400. Â Narrowband = evil if you actually listen to it. BTW, stoich is not what you want if you are looking for power. Like other have said, you need to be aroun 12.5 or below while under boost. Anything else will bring you trouble and less power.

So, are you going to do a GP for the bushings, or include them in this GP. If so, do you know the price of the kit?

Looks like you've got a nice project in the works there. I bet that thing screams with the 19c at 19psi. Man I can't wait to get mine back in action. ;D I still can't help but think that if you have a problem with the mapping/ecu at big boost, even a rrfpr isn't going to save you. I certainly won't argue though, you are clearly more qualified than I.

Lots of people going with the Delphi injectors. They're low imp (you should stick to low imp injectors) and they're pretty inexpensive. http://www.racetronix.com/ sells them, but their site seems to be under construction today.

Basically what he said is correct. I just wanted to chime in and say that you don't really need a rising rate FPR when you have the ability to program the fuel curve. That's really more of a hack to go higher boost on a stock setup.

Well, you have almost the same setup I'll be running once I convert. Except I'm going with the 650cc injs. and a 16g (to start ) Let us know how she runs. Nice to see so many MPIs coming to life. I'm looking forward to some support if I need it. Congrats, I bet it feels good.

I think that Mike means low impedence. It's hard to find high imp. injectors over 550cc. Low impedence injectors without the resistors will (may) pull too much current through the SDS driver and blow it. I don't plan to test it, I'll take their word. I would think that it makes no difference if you wire them on the ground side (between ECU and injectors) or the hot side. I'm no EE, but something tells me the result is exactly the same. I just plan to use the instructions, which I don't have handy.

I guess that depends if the ECU you chose does more than fuel. With a fuel only computer, you'll leave the stock ignition as-is. I'm a computer age fellow, so I've opted to get rid of the entire stock ignition system, distributor and all.

I think that without the AC pulley, you may have to put in some sort of bushing to take up the space. Â I think the crank pulley bolt may be too long otherwise. Again, something I don't really know. ???

I'm hoping that you don't need to pull the engine to get the sensor and magnets mounted. I figured that I'd just keep taking parts off until I could get at it all ;D. I've never taken the timing cover off, or done much else to the front of the engine, but I'm hoping that with the radiator, IC, and the bumper stuff out that I can get at everything I need. I'd be happy if anybody could tell me what exactly I have to look forward to here. And if anybody wants to share a rough drawing or dimensions of the mount that they made for the sensor, I'd take that too.

IAT = intake air temp sensor. Â The SDS (at least mine) already has connectors (weatherpack) for the GM sensors. Â The SDS site indicates that the units all come with both the IAT and water sensors ready to plug into the SDS harness (again, mine did). This place sells the solid crank pulley for ~$38. Â I haven't bought one yet, but will be soon. Â Any dealer or other mitsu parts source should be able to get them. Â I don't think you'll find it much cheaper than this though. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=840 If you plan to keep the AC, there's a second pulley that bolts to this one with 6 bolts. Â I haven't found the part number for it yet. Â You can also find these pulleys on the non wide-body quests, so a local junkyard might be a good place to try first. You need to drill the pulley to glue the magnets into place. Â Then you need to fabricate a mount to get the sensor piece into the proper location to "see" the magnets. Â I know boosted_one has some good pics up from his hall sensor mount. Â I believe most have used the timing cover holes. Â You'll need some longer bolts and your fab'd mount. I haven't yet installed the MPI yet (still need injectors and the pulley), but I'm sure some other will drop in with some good advice. good luck

For the E, you'll need to mount the Hall sensor and magnets. It has been highly recommended that you get the solid crank pulley for this. You'll also need pipe to route the IC to the new TB, obviously. I assume that you're getting all the GM sensors from SDS; MAP, IAT, water temp. You won't need the MAS, so you can either replace the whole thing from turbo down or just gut the MAS and keep the rest. That's all I can think of at the moment.

I'm planning to keep the A/C, does anybody know the part # for the extra bolt-on pulley? Thanks

I mean $50AUS. Hehe, it's all Monopoly money to me.

I paid an extra $50 Canadian to have the port welded up.

I'm planning to trigger a relay from the fuel pump line and run my SDS and WB 02 sensor off the relay. Or, maybe I'll just tap the relay off the stock ECU power. Haven't got that far yet.

I think it's a bad idea to pull the power from the coil. I think it could be bad for sensitive electronics. I've never scoped it, but I believe that it can be the source of some high voltage noise.

AbsoluteRadiator.com sells a nice alluminum that should fit nicely for $375. from Vince at absoluteradiator.com It's listed on their site as 'S13 radiator (240SX w/SR20DET engine, JDM configuration)'. Haven't purchased one yet, but It's on my short list of possible replacements.

Wow, that's quite a discount from the Precision price. I don't mind doing the legwork, but I really wouldn't know what I need if I went outside of Precision. I can't even find the rotor size on Precision's site any more. I'll probably just wait until your next batch of clients needs their rotors and find out what they're doing. ;D