89onaquest Posted February 27, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2004 Right on. Â But what are you going to do with it? Â Surely it is no good for boosted applications and being a 7 bolt will suffer from crankwalk. Â Surely you can find a crank for far less money and custom pistons are a must as the stock pistons will grenade over 5 lbs of boost. Â Sorry to burst your bubble. Take care Shawn Yes I know that. But I am happy to get the complete engine with all the accessories for that price. And they have kits for the crankwalk issue. I am loking at pistons yes. No bursting... I knew all that and all ready had plans/solutions. The only other engine I found, was over 1K, and was stripped so this is a steal for 500. So the 400 fror pistons is ALOT more affordible. So in 2 or so weeks, it will come home, be stripped and sent to the 'shop for machining. And in the interm I will be hitting Ebay like mad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 HAHAHAHA! Rrrrright! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89onaquest Posted March 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 HAHAHAHA! Rrrrright! And the point of this post was? go away scotty. your comments are not welcome. This is a tech thread. Anyway, shawn I found a site that has custom pistons and Scat rods for 729. I emailed them just now about geting them/and how long it would take. I just got a cyclone intake off ebay... So the parts are coming togeather and the planning is about done. I will be looking at tring to get a 6 bolt crank, but they are a rare find for a decent price. I also plan on getting the "anti-crankwalk" bushings installed on the '64. I am also looking at having the engine done .020 over at the shop after it is stripped apart. So for a total of $500 for the engine and $730 will have a 8:1 scat reinforced bottom end 2.4 block. Now just the head... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89onaquest Posted March 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 Oh Shawn, I almost forgot the biggest news... Since I need a new longer Drive shaft, I got a lead on a shop that I have already talked to that will do it for 60! and back it up for life. I just have to take them my old shaft so they can get the yokes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn_Silva Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 Sounds like your well on your way. You should really consider using a block with oil squirters to the pistons, it really has proven itself over the years. Alot of the big boys block them off on the 2g 7bolt cars because they find it raises the oil pressure which in turn lubricates the thrusts better, which they believe is what is happening, the thrusts are starving for oil. I personally would have started with a 1g/2g 4g63 and then stroked that combonation. You can find a 4g64 crank inexpensive and the rods and pistons are custom. I don't see the reason to buy a complete 4g64, it just doesn't make sense to me, as you end up throwing everything away, inlcluding the head, unless you stumbled across a rare dohc head, but I doubt it considering the year your speaking of. All the info is available on the internet, I guess it all depends on the method you choose. Your going to find out that the collection of parts and the choices of 4g style engines are easy compared to what you will be up against once you nestle it between the fenders. I don't mean any offence, as I completely support anyone's decision to go 2L+ power, but you make it sound so easy.....I didn't find it this way once I got my hands dirty. Please keep us posted, seriously. Take care Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89onaquest Posted March 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 Sounds like your well on your way. Â You should really consider using a block with oil squirters to the pistons, it really has proven itself over the years. Â Alot of the big boys block them off on the 2g 7bolt cars because they find it raises the oil pressure which in turn lubricates the thrusts better, which they believe is what is happening, the thrusts are starving for oil. All the info is available on the internet, I guess it all depends on the method you choose. Â Your going to find out that the collection of parts and the choices of 4g style engines are easy compared to what you will be up against once you nestle it between the fenders. Â I don't mean any offence, as I completely support anyone's decision to go 2L+ power, but you make it sound so easy.....I didn't find it this way once I got my hands dirty. Â Please keep us posted, seriously. Take care Shawn The only real serious problem with getting everything running is the transmission. Engine mounts are the same, harness is the same and the only other thing is the Driveshaft, which is solved now. I know I make it sound easy, but when you only have 1 major issue(and yes it's pretty damn big-the trans) but still, I have seen the issues that come up, and tackled the cure one at a time. I could not find any 2.0L around here. And frankly I like the low end of the 2.4. I know about the oil squirter issue, and I have a question about that... Do they "squirt" all the time, or in pulses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn_Silva Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 The squirters do their job all the time, it is a fairly small orfice which allows for serious pressure behind it, being driven by the oil pump. I don't understand your claim of the mounts being the same, wiring, etc? Are you referring to the 2L vs 2.4L? Because you will soon find that it has nothing to do with the 2.6, mounts being completely different as well. Take care Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89onaquest Posted March 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2004 The squirters do their job all the time, it is a fairly small orfice which allows for serious pressure behind it, being driven by the oil pump. I don't understand your claim of the mounts being the same, wiring, etc? Â Are you referring to the 2L vs 2.4L? Â Take care Shawn I am am refering to the 2.0/2.4 comparrison. And I am looking at using the D50 2.0 mounts. I thought that what everyone was using? am I wrong on that? Once I get the block on a stand and free from the 'shop I was looking at possibly making a 'squiter setup from the oil pump pressure sender, maybe (2) 1/64" openings per cylinder. But once again I need the block to check feasibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn_Silva Posted March 3, 2004 Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 I fabricate the engine mounts required. I really think your going to spend alot more money than just buying a 2L with the correct head and squirters and then picking up a 2.4 crank. Take care Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89onaquest Posted March 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2004 I fabricate the engine mounts required. I really think your going to spend alot more money than just buying a 2L with the correct head and squirters and then picking up a 2.4 crank. Â Take care Shawn I do not think you understand the reason I am going the 2.4 core and the 2 head. The 2.4 has a much better torque curve then the 2. It also does not suffer as badly as the 2 with crankwalk. I know that "out of the yard" the 2.4 has a higher compression ratio, so you cannot run much boost. But that is also why I am getting custom pistons, and the scat rods. and for 730 the deal cannot be beat. But that is for this winter's tear down/rebuild. I am just looking at getting it running, not under loads of boost (for now) and will enjoy the off boost Trq, and the increased on boost trq vs the 2. And did I mention I CANNOT FIND A 2.0 AROUND HERE... PERIOD. I was lucky to find the 2.4, hell I EVEN HAD TO ID THE MOTOR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn_Silva Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Yes I understand what you are trying to accomplish. I would think the best route would be to use the 2L block with the 2.4 crank. This way you have the squirters already and the dohc head. I'm just trying to look out for your best interest, as I think you will nickle and dime yourself to death. If you check with sites like http://4g64performance.com/1g_parts.htm you will find alot of high cost high demand parts that you will have to purchase seperately in order to make everything work. This does not include the custom machining and drilling, tapping, etc required. Trust me dude, we're together on this, I'll do everything I can to make it happen for you. I'm not out to hide any information, I highly recommend the swap myself. Take care Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89onaquest Posted March 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 Yes I understand what you are trying to accomplish. Â I would think the best route would be to use the 2L block with the 2.4 crank. Â This way you have the squirters already and the dohc head. Â I'm just trying to look out for your best interest, as I think you will nickle and dime yourself to death. If you check with sites like http://4g64performance.com/1g_parts.htm you will find alot of high cost high demand parts that you will have to purchase seperately in order to make everything work. Â This does not include the custom machining and drilling, tapping, etc required. Trust me dude, we're together on this, I'll do everything I can to make it happen for you. Â I'm not out to hide any information, I highly recommend the swap myself. Take care Shawn I have already looked over that site you posted. I do not mean to come off like your against it or anything, but I am being forced to deal with what I have access to and attempt to make the best out of it. Trust me I would actually rather have the 2.0, for the reasons you give, I am just stuck playing the advocate of the 2.4 cause that is all I can get. I am looking at ebay, and have found some so/so cheap 2.0's but the frieght makes them just as, or more then the local 2.4. So again I am stuck. I will check through the papers in the coming weeks, but I am not holding any high hopes. I have pretty much settled that it will have to be the 2.4. I just go along with the realist attitude, if it is not there, no need cring about it. Make do with what you have. And that is all I can do. If I cannot find a 2.0, I have to run a lower Comp ratio, and less boost to control the temps a little more. So I will have to be more cautious with the 2.4 then with the 2, but hell... A MPI high revving turbo, is a high revving MPI turbo right? just one is a little more finiky then the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89onaquest Posted March 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 I am just happy with all the facts and information coming out in this thread. This is actually worthy of a sticky/FAQ for all the info that is contained. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89onaquest Posted March 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 Do a little dance, make a little love and get down tonight! ok, great news... The person I am working on this swap with gave me some outstanding news when I got home. The same yard where I found the '64, he went looking for some parts for his car today. He said he must have popped 2 dozen 1 gen DSM hoods, and about gave up. But he saw a GS-X and said, hell, it's on the back anyway... Low and behold, still in it's tiny belly was the 2.0L TURBO... missing the valve cover, but complete, and unmolested. I called the place and talked to the guy there, and he said there were no claims on the motor, and asked me to come down to tell him exactly what I wanted and when I wanted it. Come tomarrow, I am going to tell him to save the block, the head, and the intake manifold (as it has the sensors and injectors still there) and I am going to try to get that and the complete uncut engine harness and ECU for $600 on the 19-20th of this month. BTW the engine has 170K and change... but still quite rebuildible I am sure. Will know more tomarrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn_Silva Posted March 6, 2004 Report Share Posted March 6, 2004 I'd bolt it in and get it running. Probably still a good runner. Congrats dude!! Have some fun with it this summer and then yank it and do your stroker next winter. They will make 400hp without taking the valve cover off. Take care Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89onaquest Posted March 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2004 I am loving this... I went and talked to the guy, and this was the conversation... Me, I want the engine and complete harness out of car #1806 Him, ok, make an offer. Me, 550. Him, I cannot be absolutely sure then harness will be uncut. Me, 500, and I will come up here and help you take the engine out and make sure the harness is not harmed, and I get whatever I want. Him, you got a deal. So I plan on raping this little car. The entire harness, inside and out, all the sensors, AND the entire motor for $500.... I love living in the country.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn_Silva Posted March 6, 2004 Report Share Posted March 6, 2004 Thats freaking awesome!! Is it a GST? If so, see if you can take the transmission as well, you will be able to easily get your money back on the engine by selling the transmission as the GST's are in high demand. You can unplug the ecu(unbolt and take it) and then feed the wiring and plugs back out through the firewall and the rest is easy going grunt work. Try to get everything you can, you can always thin the harness and it's accessories down when you install in the quest, many of the items are worth quite abit of money on Ebay and such. The reason the valve cover is missing is because they are nortorious for cracking, same as the front belt covers. Be prepared, as the vultures of Ebay want big bucks. Take care Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89onaquest Posted March 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2004 Thats freaking awesome!! Is it a GST? Â If so, see if you can take the transmission as well, you will be able to easily get your money back on the engine by selling the transmission as the GST's are in high demand. You can unplug the ecu(unbolt and take it) and then feed the wiring and plugs back out through the firewall and the rest is easy going grunt work. Â Try to get everything you can, you can always thin the harness and it's accessories down when you install in the quest, many of the items are worth quite abit of money on Ebay and such. The reason the valve cover is missing is because they are nortorious for cracking, same as the front belt covers. Â Be prepared, as the vultures of Ebay want big bucks. Take care Shawn It was a GS-something. It was an AWD so GS-X? If it is a manual, I may take the bell housing, unless you want to make me a deal on a modded one? ;D ??? Just gonna use the 'quest trans right now. Worry about the 6 speed this winter when the engine is rebuilt. Anyway, yes the harness removal is just a PITA, nothing too hard. I already looked it over. I am thinking about going out this coming week during spring break and doing alot of the pre-removal stuff. Pop/cut hoses, remove sensors, vacuum lines, loosen a few things.... That way when it comes time, it will be a 30 minute job. I got a valve cover suppossedly coming with a cyclone intake... if they ever show. Been a week and nothing so far. Thats why I was in no pain over the valve cover missing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted March 8, 2004 Report Share Posted March 8, 2004 It sounds like things are going very well for you bro! Kick a**! The AWD is the GSX model, just for info... Also, I'm pretty sure the motor mounts from the 86 or so D-50 with the 2.0L are the ones that will work... What do you think Shawn? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn_Silva Posted March 9, 2004 Report Share Posted March 9, 2004 We fabricate our own engine mounts for the swap package. I found factory Mitsubishi engine mounts had too many clearance problems, spaced the engine too high up and too far forward. Take care Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89onaquest Posted March 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 sory I have not posted ina while, my computer went down. bad drive, so I got some SCSI's, then cannot find the correct cable for them... Still cannot. Hopefully will be getting some on monday... Anyway, my comp is getting supercharged this comming week, those that have seen the pics.. well add 2 140 Gig Serial ATA drives... 2 18.7 SCSI drives... and another GIG of 3200 ram... Also on a sadder note... that engine I think/pretty sure has a fouled head... I got to see the timing belt and alot of teeth were ripped off... Wendsday, I am going to see if they will let me pull the head (I do not see why not) as if (IF) it can be saved I will be getting it Saturday... More to come.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89onaquest Posted March 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2004 Ok an update. Went to get the engine yesterday. I wrote about the concerns about the blown head, because of the timing belt. I made these concerns made to the J/Y. We came up with this, becuase the engine was missing the valve cover, and other small parts (easily replaced) that I would give $500 (IF THE HEAD WAS GOOD) and less if the head was blown. And I would inspect the head when I went to pick the engine up. Well... the engine was NOT PULLED. So after a heated debate on that fact alone (Remember I have been remindiing these people over the past MONTH when I was going to get the motor) they called the boss, and he said that no matter the condition of the head, it was going to be $500. I went with Joe, and when the guy said that I hit the roof and joe took me outside to talk to the guy alone. He came back out 10 minutes later, with head down so I knew the news could not be good. It wasn't, he took me back to his place so I could get in my car and go home (We went in his truck). He offered stress relief on an old fridge in his garage which we both took turns. Anyway he says will get out looking again. This all took place around 3-4. Anyway he calls me back around 6 and tells me he found another engine. Closer to him, and in the car and runs. The kicker, $500!. Man it helps SOOOO much to have a guy like that helping you out on s*** like this. I would have simply threw in the towel and went with chad's option. Unhappy, but would have done it. Just to get the car going again. Anyway, he is going over this sunday to look at the car, and the engine, and MAYBE have it Wensday. Anyway that's the update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fallen Posted September 30, 2004 Report Share Posted September 30, 2004 bringin this thread back from the dead; is there an update? it's like reading a good book with like, the last pages torn out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted September 30, 2004 Report Share Posted September 30, 2004 unless the engine was rev'd up a lot the normal thing is for it to bend valves , very common i have one here now that way , if the auto belt tentioner isn't replace'd they all do sooner or later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted September 30, 2004 Report Share Posted September 30, 2004 also in less then 30 k miles i've seen the belts jump a tooth on turbo cars that are ran hard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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