tim si Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 chris,do you know how much travel you can get with that set up?how far does the cluttch arm move at the out side of the bell housing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helrazr70 Posted March 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 (edited) Tim, I have not had it connected yet, but rumor has it that the slave has about 1.0-1.5 inch travel. I also won't need as much travel since I am inboard about 3 inches from the cable connection point. The pic I saw was on a running/driving car, so I have faith in it's travel. If I am wrong, I will find one with more travel and similar design. There are guys running similar set ups on 70's MGB cars with T5's and they swear by them. The one I saw did not have any bracketry--it was just bolted to the one eyelet and a hole was drilled in the trans webbing for the rear slave hole--not sturdy enough for me. I created the bracket to spread out the stress vs putting it all on the front eyelet. Scroll 1/2 down to the slave pic: http://www.britishv8.org/MG/JoeSchafer.htm If the throw is too short, I can always enlarge the hole in the bellhousing and move the slave about 3/8"-1/2" forward by redrilling the front eyelet and moving the whole bracket forward. I will also be using a return spring--most likely attached between the rear eyelet bolt and the outer holes of the fork. Edited March 19, 2009 by helrazr70 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helrazr70 Posted March 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 (edited) Here is where I am with my gauges. I have done some research and I bought a cluster from a wrecked rusty 86 Mustang GT over the weekend and played with it some. I wrote this tuitorial style to make another thread. I am going to post new threads on all the individual obstacles as I go and eventually I will create a complete "how to" thread on the 5.0/302 swap. I think too many folks are intimidated by V8 swaps. It isn't as hard as it looks and if the info is out there, more people may be willing to try it rather than junk their cars as I have seen happen on more than one occasion. The speedometer: The speedometer cable from an '86 Mustang GT with a T5 or auto trans can be used. The speedo end is compatible with the Mitsu speedo head and the trans end fits the transmission speed sensor. To make the speedo read the correct mph all you have to do is buy the correct plastic recalibration gear (black or white one depending on sensor teeth and manual vs. auto trans) for the speed sensor. (3.55 recal gear needed since our cars come with 3.54:1 diff gears) http://www.steeda.com/products/speedometer...ation_gears.php I also discovered that you can disassemble a 79-86 Mustang instrument cluster and with some custom fabbing the gauges will all fit in the SQ housing and are VERY similar in size. You would have to wire them individually and create a back board to mount them. The tachometer: Try to find an instrument cluster from a 79-86 Mustang, fairmont, Zephyr, or Capri. You will notice that there is a small hole on the ear of the tach housing that has 4, 6, and 8 embossed around it. The 4, 6, and 8 represent the number of cylinders the tach is calibrated for. Inside that hole is a slotted head screw that turns to point at your number of cylinders. set it to "8". You can use a tach from any 4, 6, or 8cyl car. The tach circuit board is all you need from the cluster. I have noticed that some V8 clusters do not have the selector and are set to be used on V8 only. You can tell a V8 cluster byt eh fact is has a 7k rpm tach instead of 6k rpm. Now, take the cluster apart and remove the tach. Flip the tach over and you will see a circuit board held on with one screw and it has 2 wires (red and black). Remove that screw and cut the 2 wires near the tach leaving the most wire attached to the board. Your SQ tach also has a board with 2 wires--red and black. you can stuff the now board inside the SQ cluster or you can extend the wiring and leave it out of the cluster, but make sure you connect the red wire to the red wire and the black wire to the black wire. You will now have to connect the wires to the new board--the same way the old board was attached to the printed circuit. follow the circuit and determine witch wires correspond to the tach and connect them. Basically red is power and black is signal. Both boards have a ground tab that bolts to the printed circuit--ran a ground wire to that tab. It's pretty self explanatory when you have the parts in front of you. I will work on getting pics up. The gas gauge: No action needed. The swap does not involve touching that part of the wiring harness. It will work as it always has if you do not disturb any of it's wiring. The water temperature gauge: Run a separate wire from the Ford temp sender on the intake to the factory harness connector or wire. I believe they use the same resistance values. ...or if you want to be sure, Summit racing offers adapter fittings to install metric sensors into fractional threaded holes. The oil pressure gauge: Run a wire from the oil pressure sender to the factory harness connector for the factory oil pressure sender. Once again, I think they have the same resistance values and fucntion the same. ...or again, Summit Racing sells oil pressure sender adapters for fractional to meteric threaded sensors. The amp gauge (amperage meter/ammeter): If you connect the alternator to the factory wiring harness just as the factory alternator was connected, the amp gauge will read correctly, because let's face it--Ford voltage is the same as Mitsubishi voltage! I will try to post some pics soon. I will also try to add a few wire colors for reference. Edited March 26, 2009 by helrazr70 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helrazr70 Posted April 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 (edited) I made a difficult decision today... I sold my DART heads. I got offered more than I paid for them and they were a little big for my needs anyway. I can always save up for another set I suppose. I had $500 invested in them and sold them for $1000. Can't beat that logic! I sold them because I will either use the $$ to finish up the Conquest or put it toward buying a Fiero to stuff a Supercharged 3800 into--then eventually turbo it to have a 10-11 sec Grand National powered Fiero. I may sell the TT headers also since I have decided to build my own when the time comes. We will see what happens. I have to spend 3 weeks in NY this month, so I will have time to think it over. Edited April 3, 2009 by helrazr70 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blerg Posted July 31, 2009 Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 Im going to be starting a 302 swap. I should be picking up the motor this weekend from a friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MainstreaM Posted August 1, 2009 Report Share Posted August 1, 2009 PM me, I got an extra set of GT40 heads. Kane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blerg Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 What are you other 302 guys doing for rear end and driveshaft? Sorry if that was said previously? Do you have the link for those pictures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helrazr70 Posted August 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 What are you other 302 guys doing for rear end and driveshaft? Sorry if that was said previously? Do you have the link for those pictures? Use the factory rear diff. It's good to about 500hp if you are gentle. A custom driveshaft will be needed. You will have a shaft made from a Ford shaft to match your trans and a SQ shaft to mate to the diff. A driveshaft shop will build you one from your parts for around $100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blerg Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 Fair enough. I don't think Ill be breaking 500hp anytime soon and that's something I can figure out if it comes to it. Thanks for the info... Im sure there will be more needed eventually... Ill be getting the motor when I get back from vaca. It'll need rebuilt and I just found a brand new T5 trans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helrazr70 Posted September 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 I finally got off my butt and put some time into this car for the forst time in a LONG time. Family, work, and another project ('69 Mustang Mach 1 project) have eaten up my time. On Labor day I decided to pick up where I left off. I need to get it out of the garage so I can get the Mustang in there since it's an eyesore under a car cover in the driveway. I don't want to do all my cutting and welding outside and winter is approaching. So... Between Labor Day and a few hours tonight I managed to: pull the engine back out replace the front and rear main seals install the new front sump oil pan and appropriate pick-up tube installed the flywheel and clutch assy cut the slave cylinder push rod and adjusted it reinstalled the engine/trans into car removed blower motor section of heater & A/C box cut the proper sized hole for the wiring harness grommett and installed the EFI harness through the firewall I have a lot more to do when I have time, but I am dedicating more time to it now. I will post more pics when I get a chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h3r3tic Posted September 13, 2009 Report Share Posted September 13, 2009 Ok Im having a hard time with this POS 2.6 liter. I want to put 302 wit t5 trans into the conquest. I need to know everything you know about this swap. Do stock headers work? I know I need a custom drive shaft and trans xmember. Did you make mounts to bolt in the engine? What had to be cut or modified? Power steering? any thing else I missed Im not sure but I just need to make sure I can make this work rather then having this crappy 2.6 liter spin bearings and what not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helrazr70 Posted October 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 Sorry h3r3tic for not getting back to you. I never saw that there was a reply to this thread. I now see that you have figured it all out and have long since passed me by with your progress! (Great Job!) I may be asking you for advice! UPDATE: I have not had much time to be on SQC lately and have had even less time to work on my car due to business trips and life in general. My progress slowed down to a crawl! I have no choice now but to get back on my car as I may have to sell either my V8SQ or my '69 Mustang due to a possible move to PA. (can't move 4 cars--2 of which don't run) I have to get the SQ together so I can get it out of the garage and the Mustang in the garage for when we list the house for sale. My garage is a mess and getting the SQ out is the first step toward cleaning it up/out. I met my wife in PA in 2002. She moved to TN with me in 2003 and we were married a few years later. Now she wants to move home to PA to be near her family. So... I recently applied for a transfer within my company to an open position in the Reading, PA area. I am flying into Allentown, PA next week for a string of interviews. I am not crazy about moving away from the south where I was born and raised, but I have to do it for family. The things we do for women... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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