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Why would someone waste their time and money on a POS like this? I mean really couldnt you find a better body to start with? Looks like your doing a good job fixing JUNK but you cant polish a terd. WoW I have been waiting to see these pics what a disappointment. Only thing I can gather from these pics is you have a nice garage.

 

 

Moderator warning: There is no added value in your negative comments.

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It may have bein rusted out very bad. but you have to admit. its another one saved from the scrap yard. With that being said i wish you luck on your build

I say if you have the skills and tools to save a very rusted car, then go for it. every starquest deserves a chance (unless it has been just totally ran over by a tank or ripped in half) besides these are rusted out parts that can be fixed

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first i would like to say thank you to mr. hibb for getting the pics up. now people can see what i am workin with. to the detractors i would say you must have never loved a car. if anyone saw my earlier posts with this 86 they will remember i blew the first motor up right before an autocross and the wiring went crazy right before the next. in a fit i pulled the motor,tranny, and wiring all from the car and swapped them for the motor you see here. all i can say is i will do what it takes.

 

i'll be posting more pics as i get the rack and other parts in. thanx again.

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the haltech is in my opinion the best possible ems other then that there wiring diagram has the wrong wire colors so you have to pin out everything in the flying lead harness. It is not hard to tune once you have a basic map setup. and if you want to run ac or n2o you have many options for aux inputs and outputs. this is asuming you get the e11v2
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first i would like to say thank you to mr. hibb

 

your very welcome and i applaud your efforts im glad your not riping apart an all original car

 

i would suggest a preasembled megasquirt v3.0 running ms extra, its super easy/cheap and can control anything

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your very welcome and i applaud your efforts im glad your not riping apart an all original car

 

i would suggest a preasembled megasquirt v3.0 running ms extra, its super easy/cheap and can control anything

will the megasquirt run on mass or on map? i plan on forced induction at some point in the future and am still looking at the posibilities.

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want to trade a nice silver fender for that fiji blue one?

it would be better for you to paint the one you have. the paint is not that good on this one plus it's 3000mi away. i'm in wilminton n.c. on the ocean.

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the haltech is in my opinion the best possible ems other then that there wiring diagram has the wrong wire colors so you have to pin out everything in the flying lead harness. It is not hard to tune once you have a basic map setup. and if you want to run ac or n2o you have many options for aux inputs and outputs. this is asuming you get the e11v2

do you know where i can see specs on this e11v2. am interested in knowing more.

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haltech e11v2

 

 

 

This is the top dog you can also go to downloads and download the manual to read up on everything. Megasquirt scares (who stands behind it) me I have not installed one but have played with a few, maybe its just that most that I have seen installed were sloppy jobs.

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has anyone done front steer with a rack before? any tips the a-arm brace and the a-arm are both in stock places but going with heim joints on both as well as on the sway bar end links. it's startin to get crowded up front. ideas?
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post-12741-1225931708.jpganother pic of modified a-arm. using 3/4" heim joint. i put it in with a threaded insert like on a rod end for four link. them boxed the a-arm. this makes the arm adjustable. the arm with the rubber bumper will get the same treatment. this cuts down on deflection in the corners. also there will be less binding. hope it makes a difference.
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the spindles are original. i simply swaped left to right the 17 mm bolts on bottom come out to let go of the strut. then you move the left a-arm to the right and bolt them back up. the bar with the rubber bushing stays on its respective side. i will post A better pic after i get the other heim joint installed. you may have noticed from the earlyier pics that i welded 1 1/2 square tube to the front of the cross member. this is what i will mount the rack to. there does seem like there will be a clearance problem though. at the end links of the rack with the front bar.
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