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FUEL SYSTEM REBUILD/PUMPS/TANK/FILTERS


Professor Quest
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oh Proff  how'd you do on the write up , heck i don't know  you just did this righ,,last one i did was 3 yr ago,,   and   what was it i had for  b-fest  yesterday ,  have no clue ;)  dang  forget my  pills again   hehe
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  • 3 weeks later...
..........................Unhook fuel outlet line from pump:  This part can be tuff. Use a  GOOD 14mm LINE or FLARE NUT WRENCH & a GOOD 17mm open end wrench. This fitting is ABOVE the rear cross-member so you don't have alot of room. Hold the 17mm and rotate the 14mm. This fitting is pretty tight and maybe rusty, so use  LONG WRENCHES. ...............................

 

Just to chime in on this ........on my 1987 quest its a 19mm not a 17mm other than that these are excellent!!!

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"A thousand pardons, sir". I believe you are right. Is that ALL I blew? ;D

 

Oh yeah Great Info Professor ... the order and tips made all the difference...   I tested the old pump alongside the new and there was quite a difference odds are it was going to die pretty soon .... so I'm grateful for your help.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Howdy!

I am replacing my stock replacement pump with the Walbro because the Advanceauto pump was real erratic in its operation...   not only was it noisy then quiet but it would push fuel at different rates into my gas can... so I got my money back. ;D

 

Conical filter was in place and clean, along with new in tank and high pressure

 

Before returning it I checked voltage to the pump and it was 9.6v or so ...what should the voltage be?

 

On the wire to fuel pump connector there is a black box inline before the pump... what is it?

what does it do?

Do I need it?

 

Many Much Thanks

 

Bill

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Bill, Take a battery voltage reading with the engine off. Now start the engine and take another reading. Do this right at the battery. It should have about 12.2 to 12.6 with the engine off. 14.2 to 14.6 with the engine running. Now place a jumper wire to the FUEL PUMP TEST PORT (above the air cleaner, black wire/white strip) This SHOULD provide NEARLY full battery currant to the pump. If the pump changes it's tone (sounds better) You may have some resistance along the way to the pump. (ANY CONNECTOR) You have MANY miles on your car and it might need a new RELAY. You never said WHERE EXACTY you tested your voltage.

 

The "black box" in the fuel pump harness is a RELUCTOR. It's a noise reduction device for the radio. They generally don't have problems. Yes it could be eliminated. But you can easily test voltage on BOTH SIDES OF IT.

 

If the inlet of ANY fuel pump is not the EXACT SAME DIMENSIONS AS THE FACTORY PUMP, NEVER INSTALL THE CONICAL FILTER!!!!! Most people don't stop to think HOW that filter works. It snaps INTO the fuel pump inlet nipple. Therefore it must have CLEARANCE around the outside of the filter. It you force it into an opening that is TOO SMALL, the fuel has no place to go AROUND the screen. So you just put a CHOKE-HOLD on the fuel supply. I tested several aftermarket pumps for proper FIT. In my opinion, none of them had enough clearance to use that filter. Most inlet nipples are a SEPERATE SOLID BRASS NIPPLE WITH VERY THICH WALLS. Look at your stock pump.........it's very THIN and part of the housing. Worse yet, you will probably FRACTURE THE NYLON HOUSING OF THE FILTER. Guess what happens to the small particles that will flack off? I have always said...............don't use a OLD FILTER AGAIN. But some guys clean them and stick them and FORCE them back into a nipple that is TOO SMALL. THAT FILTER SHOULD NOT BE IN THE HOSE WHEN YOU INSTALL IT!!!

 

I'm no typing wiz and I have never offerd the EXACT WAY the conical filter works. If I say don't use it............take my word for it. I spent HOURS coming up with a replacement filter because the conical has been deleted. I even showed you how to EXACTLY place the hose clamps to it can be removed from the hatch.

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Hey Professor,

 

Couldnt care less how good or bad you type... just keep giving the info!!!!

 

I checked the voltage at the pump... and at the connector for the pump.  I will spend some time today looking over the wiring diagrams and check my relay and connections and test voltage at each one.  

 

Conical filter was an ok fit  in the other stock pump but of course is eliminated with the Walbro.  

 

I am copying your filter design so....once again... thanks for the great info!!

 

Bill

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You might find this amusing... maybe not... either way, heres my DUH of the day....

 

I got the pump installed and tested then hit the road...

 

I noticed a loud vibration that occured intermittantly,  :o either in the throttle or off it... ???

I thought I had a bad pump because it sounded like a cavitation noise... so i dropped the tank and tested the pump...........no noise. :-/

 

Put it all back together again ... but left the trunk dismantled and hit the road .... no noise ;D  went home put covers on the fuel level and pump access and a few hours later the kids and I hit the road... and dang-it there was the vibration again  :'(

 

It turned out to be the cover for the Fuel level connection   ::)... the sticky stuff was dry and it stuck a little when i placed it but vibrated like he!! once driving

 

So.... DUH!!!! ::) ::)

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  • 2 weeks later...
I ordered the GSL392 and installation kit from the following link.  as Bill S said, $127.93 with free shipping, promo code: starquest

 

http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/

Ok guys...............I KNOW. I'm the one who set that purchase price up with Ron. ;D The pics are nice............but you gotta do a little reading. ;D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, I must be an idiot but I went to that link and I cannot find the pump and kit listed for our cars. Is it listed as something else. There is not a search feature for their site either. Can anyone help me out here? Thanks.

 

Rick

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On the right look under fuel pumps.  Then click on external.  Its under there.  Personaly I would just cal them to make sure you get the install kit for our car.  

 

 

BuGG

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