TheStockStarion Posted November 19, 2004 Report Share Posted November 19, 2004 I am thinking about buying me a 1988 Starion ESi-R and there is a decent amount of rust on the bottom corner behind the rear wheels. I was wondering how expensive that would be to fix and or replace. Just wanting some rough estimates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quest925 Posted November 19, 2004 Report Share Posted November 19, 2004 When theres a little rust, theres a lot. Last year my Starion had a small bubble on the drivers rear fender. It turned into a huge hole. My pass fender had really small, hardly noticable rusting, but its from the inside out. To do it right and if you dont know someone it could be a lot of $ Whatever you do, do it right or the rust will reappear quickly. Make sure that there isnt a cause of the rust... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheStockStarion Posted November 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2004 It's an Iowa car. I assume the main cause would be how much salt they use on their streets during the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quest925 Posted November 20, 2004 Report Share Posted November 20, 2004 Yeah probrobly. My rust on the drivers rear is from the inside cause my antenna was out, filled with water and I never fixed it. A little rust on the fenders is typical and easily repairable. Check the frame rails up front though and if they are clear then Id take it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 22, 2004 Report Share Posted November 22, 2004 they rot from the inside out, pull that plug and flush out that whole cavity might be plugs in the bottow too but it's too late, its probably all rotted on the inside, can't do much about it, and the front fenders are just as bad if not worse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corquest Posted February 7, 2005 Report Share Posted February 7, 2005 well you need to cut out all the rust then use FIBER ALL it is very strong i use it in the body shop all the time use cardboard for support depending on how big the hole is. you will have to take the wheel off and the inner fender cover out but that much is easy. you have get fiberall only at body/paint store dont go to sherwin williams they dont no shat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidkik Posted February 7, 2005 Report Share Posted February 7, 2005 << works part-time at Sherwin-Williams and I know my shat ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted February 8, 2005 Report Share Posted February 8, 2005 well you need to cut out all the rust then use FIBER ALL  it is very strong i use it in the body shop all the time  use cardboard for support depending on how big the hole is. you will have to take the wheel off and the inner fender cover out but that much is easy. you have get fiberall only at body/paint store dont go to sherwin williams they dont no shat. What body shop do you work at that uses fiberglass filler with a cardboard backing to fill in rust holes? Cardboard will soak up water and hold it by the metal panel causing the rust to come right back through in a couple years. The best way is to weld in a small patch, but if you have no access to a welder and have to use fiberglass then first "glue" a piece of fiberglass matting into the hole with fiberglass resin. After it dries cover the area with the fiberglass filler, sand it and then move onto the bondo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TsiRacer Posted February 8, 2005 Report Share Posted February 8, 2005 Cut it out and make a small fill patch will some thin steel sheet metal and weld it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corquest Posted February 10, 2005 Report Share Posted February 10, 2005 you know i give people to much credit, you remove the cardboarrd after the fiberall dries little peices will stick to dried fiberall but they wont hurt anything, to small to create problems.but yah a metal patch would probably be best if its easier to form ot the shape of the quarter. :o think burton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 you know i give people to much credit, you remove the cardboarrd after the fiberall dries little peices will stick  to dried fiberall but they wont hurt anything, to small to create problems.but yah a metal patch would probably be best if its easier to form ot the shape of the quarter. :o  think burton If you read my post again you will see that I said it would be better to weld in a patch, but if he had no welder... You tell me to think? Fiber all is ok to use, but it would be better if it was backed by a good fiberglass matting instaead of cardboard- that sounds a bit ghetto to me. Besides, if the carboard is behind the fiber INSIDE a 1/4 panel, how do you plan to remove it? He's been talking about rust on the rear 1/4s so I have no idea why you're talking about removing inner fenders :. THINK! Or at least read the whole post and don't just go by the title. As a bodyman you should know most people think all 4 corners of their cars are fenders- when in actuallity the fenders are only on the front. You're such a high and mighty auto body God? Lets see some of your work. Got any pics? Not really trying to be an a**, but I hate being treated like I don't know what I'm talking about. I'm sure you know you're stuff, but its irresponsible to come here and inform people who don't know better how to do things half ---------------. Sorry to hijack the post just wanted to make everyone aware that there's a "fast" way to fix it and then there's the "right" way to fix it. The fast is great and with the right experience you will know when you can get away with it, but for a newbie to bodywork stick to the "right" way- unless you like redoing things every year. If you want to do it economocally go buy a college level auto body repair text book, some basic tools and practice. Even if you do it youself twice before you get it right, it will be cheaper than paying a body shop. Then you can have the self assurance that its done right- no cardboard included. You also have some knowledge that you can use your whole life. Some cities have "tech schools" that offer evening classes in auto body, auto mechanics, etc... There's a small fee to enroll in it, but you will pay cost for all supplies and can work on your own car. It's the best money you can spend- all for cheaper than a body shop. Here's why I get so irate when cardboard is brought up during body work talk- http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNzgwNTAzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg Yep, that's a big hunk of bondo attatched to a piece of cardboard. That came out of the passenger 1/4 behind the rear tire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corquest Posted February 18, 2005 Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 Im painting my 89 quest tomorrow dont worry ill have pics i said inner fender because they arent called inner quarters i didnt know which quarter he was talking about there is a plastic peice on driver quarter that u can remove to get to gas filler neck or inner "quarter" burton this isnt an arguement but u attacked me and my methods i didnt like that very much it kinda put me i n a bad mood. everyone does things there own way no reason to be mad sincerely, Autobody-God Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted February 18, 2005 Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 I'm not mad, its not my car. Like I said- I'm sure you know your stuff, and like you said people do things different. However there are deffinately "wrong" ways to do stuff, and when giving advice to people who have no clue about what they can and can't get away with its no good to give them info that may not turn out too well due to them not knowing the difference. I've done my share of shortcuts as well, but I know when I can and can't do that. When I give advice to someone on here about body work I dig out my old college autobody text book to make sure I give them the "right" way to do stuff- even if its not the way I do things. I'm sorry if my post sounded mad, and I'm sorry you felt I was attacking you. Maybe I am a little jaded because lately it seems all my body side jobs have mad amounts of bodywork performed by previous "misinformed" people. I especially love when a rust hole is repaired by stuffing the hole full of bondo, sanding it and calling it fixed. No cutting out the rusty edge, no sandblasting. Then its even better when they decide just to leave it like that- no primer or paint. Can't wait to see some pics of your finished ride. What color is it gonna be? Stock or custom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corquest Posted February 28, 2005 Report Share Posted February 28, 2005 well i went back to fiji blue, i like it the best of all the other stock colors, shaved my door handles and the fuel door key hole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ_Lazarek Posted March 7, 2005 Report Share Posted March 7, 2005 But even when you remove that plastic peice in the drivers quarter panal you still can't get behind the outter skin of the quarter, there is still an inner skin that would need to be cutout... DJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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