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Repairing Cracked or Damaged Spoilers and Bumpers


JasonKolda
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After many attempts using different adhesives to repair my cracked spoiler, I have finally found a product that works great. The whole process should cost less than $30 depending on the size of damage.

 

The Adhesive is made by  Duramix  and the product number is #4188 be sure to use #4188 ... other duramix products will not work)

 

http://www.trendsetterdesign.com/mystuff/spoil8.jpg

 

I have tried the following adhesives with ZERO luck so I would not even attempt using any of these..

 

a. Superglue

b. Epoxy

c. Fiberglass and Resin

 

However, I did have a little luck with a product called "Shoe Goo". You can buy it in the hardware section at WalMart.  It holds surprisingly well. If you have a small crack you want to take care of in a hurry, try it out...Just be sure to clean the back side of the spoiler around the crack and really goop the "Shoe Goo" on.

 

Here are the Steps to take to completely repair the non-tpo urethane bumper covers and spoilers on the cars

 

HERE ARE THE PRODUCTS YOU WILL NEED.. You can get the Duramix and backer panel tape at most auto body supply shops or off the web...(search google for "duramix 4188" )

 

a) Tube of Duramix #4188 (it comes in 2 different sizes, buy the smaller one...you will need a Duramix gun to use the larger tube.... $$$)

 

B) Extra duramix mixing tips (the stuff sets up fast and will clog the tip unless you keep applying until the tube is empty)

 

c) Backer panel tape (or sheetrock mesh tape)

 

d) 80 grit sanding drum and a dremmel (or 80 grit sand paper)

 

e)  Duramix High Density Filler part #4056 (optional..needed if the damaged area is huge.)

 

f) duct tape

 

This is how it goes....

 

STEP 1) Completely sand away the inside of the spoiler around the crack. Be sure to sand about 3 inches on either side. ALSO!!! Make sure you completely sand away the crack seam as well to toally remove the damadged area. DO NOT USE AN ADHESIVE PROMOTER SPRAY ON THE URETHANE. SANDING IS ALL THE CLEANING YOU NEED. I used an adhesive promoter on one crack and the glue did not hold.

 

STEP 2) (optional) drill 1/8" holes on either side of the crack about 1/2" between drill holes. This is not stated in the duramix directions, just a tip from a body shop pro.

 

http://www.trendsetterdesign.com/mystuff/spoil6.jpg

note: the material around the crack has been completely sanded away and holes drilled every 1/2"

 

STEP 3) Put Duct tape to the painted side of the crack to hold the pieces in place.

 

STEP 4) Apply the backer panel tape to the inside of the crack.. overlap the crack at least 2".

 

STEP 5) Apply the glue generously over the crack ensuring it fills in the crack and the holes you drilled earlier.

 

http://www.trendsetterdesign.com/mystuff/spoil3.jpg

note: the backer panel mesh tape and glue applied generously over the inside of the spoiler over the crack

 

http://www.trendsetterdesign.com/mystuff/spoil4.jpg

note: sanded inside portion w/ glue

 

STEP 6) Let the glue cure for 24 to 48 hours. DO NOT MOVE THE PIECE UNTIL IT IS CURED. Movement will hamper the curing process.

 

STEP 7) After glue has dried, remove the duct tape.

 

http://www.trendsetterdesign.com/mystuff/spoil2.jpg

note: repaired crack

 

STEP 8 ) Sand the painted side of the crack completely smooth with 80 grit sandpaper.

 

STEP 9) Use Duramix High Density SMC Filler part #4056 to fill in the cracks and holes on the outside of the spoiler. DO NOT use standard body putty. It will not adhere and expand and contract with weather conditions.

 

(picture coming soon)

 

STEP 10) After dry....sand the filler to a smooth finish....Prep, Primer...and Paint..

 

Thats all there is to it.

 

I will be posting the finished photos after the car gets painted.

 

Mods....Can we move this to the FAQ section of the site??

 

Thanks and good luck,

J

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J

Great post. I know the duramix products work awesome. You're also right about the mixing tips.  This stuff sets up in about 2 minutes. What about drilling a hole at the end of the crack to prevent it from spreading, is that necessary?

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heefner...

 

That's a a great idea! I didnt even think of that when I was gluing.

 

Everyone, I would definately recommend drilling a 1/4" hole at the tip of the crack where the seam comes together. The stress of the crack will then be transferred across the circumference of a circle rather than culminating at a single point....much stronger.

 

The duramix holds so well that it probably isnt nessecary but I guess that it is just good practice when it comes to stopping spreading cracks on hard matierals like plastics and glass.

 

J

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nice post

yes this is the way you are supose to properly fix a semi flex front bumper.

I go to a school called UTI.

I am currently takeing auto collision repair. we just recently learned on how to do this.

but the only thig that  you didnt post was that when yo sand the cracked area, is that when you go and sand the inside of the crack you need to make sure you bevel each edge of the crack leaving no sharp edges.

if the sharp  edges are left then the crack will eventually cut through the plastic compound and you will be doing this all over agian.

 

we learned using a two part compound made by 3M when you go and buy one of these products make sure you get a semi flex material or one that works with TPO plastics.

 

otherwise this is the correct way to fix theese front lips.

 

 

and on another side note put as much of this compound on the back of the crack and there is no need to sand the back side leave the bild up for more support.

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  • 1 month later...

This is the best stuff I've found to fix cracks. I've taken two pieces and glued them 90 degrees to each other and the next day I bent them flat and it wouldn't break. The seam held straight and the plastic just bent.

 

Dave.

 

Graphite Shafting Epoxy 10oz

http://www.golfsmith.com/cm/ppage.php?styn...7264&lcode=

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

when all the new airdams are finally gone  there will be allot of people doing this,  I would guess they are gone now if not will be by this summer

 

it is no harder to fix these than it is to fix a dent

 

I wonder how many were trashed needlessly

 

you can get urethane cheaply now sold by casting/molding suppliers

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