"frame" tweakage

[offalot]

OK The car Im working on is in excelent shape, no rust straight body except the front drivers corner, it was hit and now has a salvage title, I didnt think it was that bad so I cut off the damaged area and got a replacement corner, Im just waiting to get my welder going to put it on.

Now today I put a spare fender on so I could start lining up my front body kit thing and got a unpleasent surprise, it seams the whole side is tweaked a bit, check out the pictures:

 

The bolt up near the hood hinge is in, yet the rest are off

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNjI1NDQwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

 

You can see where the sheetmetal gave here bending it up"

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNjI1NDQxNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

 

Here you can see how far off the fender is:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNjI1NDQyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

 

 

And this is just the damaged corner:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNjI1NDQzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

 

So is there any way to fix this within reason??, , Im definately not going for total originality on this so if something has to be fabbed up, even some tubular setup , I have no problem with that.  thanks

[Burton]

 It all dpends on what tools you have. If you have some chains and a come-along (ratcheting chain tightener) and a way to anchor the car down (trees work well). Anchor the rear of the car at the base of a tree. Hook the front chain on along the lower part of the inner fender and to the base of another tree (need to have a downward angle tho in order to pull the inner fender down and forward). Have the drivers framerail supported by a jackstand right under the firewall. Cinch the come-along down til it starts getting good tesion on everything. Then get a torch and start heating the areas of the unibody that have creases. Give the come along one more little crank then start beating the creases with a hammer- you should notice the chains start losing tension. Tigten everything back up and repeat the process untill everything test-fits well.

 

 It won't get your door, hood gaps perfect, but its WAY cheaper than paying for time on a frame rack in a body shop.

 

 Let me know if you need more in depth instructions.

[offalot]

Thanks Burton, this sounds worth trying. Only thing is , I dont have torches, I could probably borrow some off of one of my buddys  but what do you think of using your method but maybe take a sawzall and cut down the firewall a ways, get it all lined up and weld some sheetmetal bach there to reinforce it?With the cut it may be easier to play with and get everytihng lined up.

 I got everybody tellin me I should just start over with another car.Its really bumming me out since Ive grown to like this one so much.

[Indiana]

the wrinkled part in the pic by the hood hinge, it is a 3 sided box, goes in under the cowl and into the A pillar, it attaches to the cap and goes over to the other side of the car, I'd saw down the rearmost edge of it just through until you are into the apron (about 4 inches) and then push the whole thing down and weld up the crack, it will be a small crack you can probably fill with the wire.  make sure it's rewelded completely this is holding up most all the front weight of the car and is allot more important the the lower frame rail.  Check the lower frame rail from front to back and make sure it's not wrinkled anywhere, there are crumple zones, mostly in the big triangular part at the back where it passes underneath the firewall if it is you just need to replace a little more than you expected.  if you don't want to do that, I'd at least cut a hold into the cowl and look to see if it's not wrinkled where you can't see it at the top  and not just wrinkled that little place you can see (by the hood hinge)

 

if you want I can send you some pictures from the body repair manual that shows all this, it might help to see how all the parts fit together

[Burton]

 If you have a good stout chain and come-along setup you could very well get it just by beating on it without the torch. Wether you beat it or cut it deffinately weld some support- maybe a nice sheet of steel over the damaged area. Since its compromised, if you don't it will give easily in an accident.

 

 Good luck!

[kev]

Yeah, you are tweaked pretty good there.  

 

I would go the route of the chain and heat to start.   If you heat the crimped area up by the firewall real good, you should be able to pull that down.  

 

The cutting method will also work but I would use it as a contingency.  Actually that member is more than just a channel, it does have a forth side to it that is tack welded in but is a lower gauge panel.  

 

Another thing to consider is a local comunity college or vo-tech school.   Some of these places have night classes for adults to take and they can bring in and work on their own vehicles.   There you will have a frame rack, all tools, welder,  as well as a trained instructor to help you pull it out.  Just a thought.

 

I hate collision work, I'll take rust repairs anyday over bent up steel.

 

kev

[offalot]

I hate collision work, I'll take rust repairs anyday over bent up steel.

 

kev

 

I hear ya there,, Yeah Ill play around with it with the come along and see about getting some torches befoer cutting into it, but yeah the vo-ed may be something worth lookin into. The adult class of course, Ive heard some horror stories about cars that went into the high school class for simple maintanance and had to be hauled out on a flatbed. But I know a guy who teaches at the local vo ed and he has a conquest and needs parts so maybe I can work something out .

[Burton]

Thats actually how I got into body work by taking one of those classes while in high school. Maybe your areas different, but I saw more show quality finishes leave that place than the 2 body shops I worked at. The teachers would not allow the cars to leave unless they were no less than perfection.