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How to Rebuild an 88/89 KM132 Manual Transmission


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Lube these suckers and install…make sure you are putting them in the correct sides

 

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The spring

 

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Other side

 

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You’ll see them contact that flange on the rod

 

RTV on the bolts

 

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Install and torque to spec..22-30 ft-lbs

 

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Now is a good time to check your operation! Could even shift to all gears if you like

 

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Don’t forget about this last steel ball and spring

 

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Now lube up that o-ring and gear on the speedo and install

 

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So the speedo gear housing is actually a cam..you need to rotate it to engage the splines. You’ll feel it couple. Or just orient it with the notch on the outside in the position I show

 

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Line up your slots and install the retainer.

 

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Last gasket

 

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And final housing

 

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Couple of final items to install.

 

New gasket for the fill plug

 

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Clutch fork…you know how to do this...I'm going to skip a few pics here...

 

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Added some RTV to the flange and installed the steel protector

 

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Last but not least; the pan with new o-ring (lubed) and new gasket for the drain plug

 

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There you have it!

 

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Everything is installed except the reverse light switch…if you look closely you can see that I have a temporary rubber cap in its place. I didn’t put that in until the tranny was in the car. Don’t forget the ball bearing that goes in front of the switch!

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CONCLUSION

 

In all, I hope this helps. I tried to be very detailed and shared my screw ups/failures in hopes that you too can see/learn from them without having to go thru the same path. In all, this was a fun rebuild. It was an expensive rebuild due to the parts needed and the rarity of parts available for our vehicles…but heck we are used to that!

 

The cumbersome part of it was the time it took…mostly waiting for parts and fabricating my puller tool. I really wish I wouldn’t have lost that one group of photos but I hope my explanation and use of assembly photos was sufficient. For anyone performing this task, please help us out by snapping a few pics in the area that I missed…mainly in the removal of the input shaft/bearing and removal of the center bearing.

Again if you are performing this rebuild, study this thread and the manuals first prior to initiating. Don’t rely on only my pics. Who knows I may have missed an important photo…not to mention that I’m writing up this process after it being a full year or so since I actually did it. Be thinking and understanding of what you are doing, not just following the procedure I outlined. Also, I only showed focus on the worm or degraded items that I found upon inspection on my rebuild. Study every component looking for wear or flaws and make the determination if you need to replace more parts…or possibly even abort from the rebuild and find a replacement unit.

 

As always please feel free to send me PMs about ways you did things differently from me, more efficiently, etc. Also, if you something that I did that was downright wrong…please let me know! I would not be offended in the least way and don’t want to convey the wrong process to other members.

 

kev

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  • 3 years later...

Adding a quick update to this thread...I've been in discussions with a member on FB who is rebuilding his transmission as I write this.   I was able to dig out the custom tool I made to pull the large center bearing off the main shaft for transmission disassembly.   

Note:  that I lost the photos of this step in the process.    Also note, that I made a similar tool for the input shaft bearing removal prior to realizing that I could remove the input shaft and bearing as a whole on an 88/89. 

Here are the tools.  I made these out of 4140 steel, which is pretty high strength.  This may have been overkill.  I also wrapping them around the bearing as much as I could to limit flange deformation....again, may have been overkill.    The lip is only .050" thick in order to get between the underside of the bearing flange and the transmission case.  As seen, I used some scrap hollow structural steel and tacked it to the tool halves once around the bearing....being that the material was 4140, it doesn't take kindly to welding and my tacks broke...which caused no issue.  Thus disregard this feature, it isn't needed.   The holes are drilled/tapped to 1/2-13 thru and I used ASTM A193 B7 all thread rod (which is basically 4140 steel too) as the extension to a standard puller bar.     

Obviously, these were made on a lathe and mill.  I had access to a local machine shop at the time who let me create these while on my lunch breaks at work at the time.   Probably more elaborate than most would have done, but you can use the principle to design something similar.   I use to have actual drawings of these but they were also lost with the photos.  But they are easy to make...measure the diameter of the bearing flange and the bearing body with a .050" thick lip.  The total thickness of these are 1/2".   Definitely could try a much more crude tool made out of 1018 or A36 steel with 1/2-13 nuts welded to them in lieu of the tapped holes.  

 

I don't have a tranny a part to show the setup on but thought I'd at least post pictures of the tool on one of my spare center bearings.  

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The member on FB ended up not using anything like this but rather setting up the transmission in a harbor freight shop press and pressed down on the main shaft...using the transmission case to resist the bearing as the shaft was pushed off of it.   He has a nice little video of it on FB showing the process, which I'm trying to figure ou how to link here.   He said he may put it up on youtube for the purpose....I'll update this if he does.

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