Preludedude Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I've put around 50miles on my rebuild now so I decided to drive it to work. Ran fine but as soon as I got in parking lot, it stalled on me like I was in a high hear going too slow....so I tried starting and it just turned over but wouldn't atart. Did this for a min or two. Then finally cranked up. Now it idles very rough and wants to stall but doesn't. I went ahead and parked it at work and came on in to work. I just went out on break and looked at it. It does stay running but I am not going to drive it home like this. It idles rough and around 700-800 now. It was around 1100-1200 normally. I haven't did a tps reset yet because it was giving slightly wacky signals last time like fluctuating, etc... Could my tps have randomly went bad? I'm still at work and I've got a ride home from a friend but I gotta get this conquest back home in the garage. What is a check list I need to start checking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Mine ran like that when I ran out of gas. Sounds stupid, but sometimes we overlook the simple stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 That was my first thought. I checked fuel cell. I got gas. That I can verify. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Just tried again after work. Its idling But there is a shaky bumpy feel to the idle. Guess I'll try to drive it home. 20min ride. But first. I'm going to get some sleep. 3rd shift sucks. Ill have my wife drive me back to work later today and I'll try to make it home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Got sleep. Went back. Car idles low and shaky. Won't drive far before stalling. Gotta trailer it home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpshifter Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 (edited) We could suspect a great number of things here without further tests. 1100-1200rpm idle is much too high for a warmed up car. Your analysis of the TPS makes it sound very suspect, but I have never persoanlly done a TPS reset. The voltage output level (which someone else can remark on) ought to be stable. Going through this in my mind, here is what I would do if I was in your situation: Check the timing. TEN degrees advanced at idle (BTDC). Continue checking all four wires while you have the gun out to see if you have a non/misfiring cylinder. Any anomaly in the timing may suggest a slipped timing chain, especially if you had checked it prior and know for a fact it's changed. Disconnect the fuel line and direct the hose into a cup or jar. Crank the car over and check that you have a steady flow of fuel from the pump. This is not a suitable PRESSURE test, but it is a good test for VOLUME. Nonscientific- all we want to know is if the car is getting a good volume of fuel without hooking up fuel pressure gauges and everything under the sun. If no gas while you're cranking, run a hot wire to the fuel pump bypass connector- along the passenger side fender by the air canister. It is a single black female spade connector. Even with the ignition off, you should have flow. That idle issue could be timing, or a lean mixture caused by vacuum leak. It might be prudent to plug off ALL of your manifold vacuum nipples and see how it runs. Edited July 6, 2015 by Sharpshifter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Check the inside of the distributor cap for evidence of carbon tracking. What kind of voltage are you getting to the fuel injector female clip's? It should be about 5.4 volts. Are the clips and injector metal terminals clean? Are you getting any error codes? See the FAQ's for how to take 'em. IE. - TPS error code. Do you have a clean fuel pick up strainer in the fuel tank and is the conical strainer at the fuel pump suction clean? When is the last time that the engine house high pressure fuel filter changed? Check all of the tubing hose clamps for tightness from the air filter cannister to the TB and there are no splits or holes in the metal tubing hose connectors and accordian hose. During your engine rebuild, did you disassemble the fusible link box 2 and clean all of it's electrical female & male metal terminals. Did you clean all of the engine house grounds? What year is your Lady? If it's a '87, then her ignitor may be intermittently going on the fritz - not likely tho. Pull the plug wire from the coil to the distributor. Ground the wire with a tiny gap to the engine block and crank the engine over. You should have a BRIGHT BLUE spark as the coil fires. If not then your coil may have started on it's journey to Starquest Heaven. What shape is the ground wire going from the intake manifold to your Lady's body? As far as the high engine RPM, review the below link to ensure that the TB linkage is set up as PQ shows. http://starquest.i-x...f366bae6a39a3a8 Here is your initial shopping list. Try this stuff and let us know what you find - especially the error codes. For What It's Worth. KEN Edit - With 50 miles on your Lady's rebuilt engine I'd strongly suggest that you retorque the engine head fasteners if you haven't already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 When I get car home tomorrow, I'll check what you guys have recommended. I'll post back with results.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted July 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 As always, I update my threads with solutions for future reference Today, FRO (Jeff) stopped by and helped me. Apparently, I have the injectors flip flopped and car was running on the 950cc so we swapped the pigtails and now car idles and runs like it should. Rookie mistake by myself when putting everything together. Weirdly enough, the car ran decent with the 950 as primary for the first 50miles of new rebuild. But I guess eventually the ECU said "screw it, something isn't right here" and car immediately started running very rough. All is well. Until next problem.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 The ECU does learn a bit when it gets into closed loop. I bet if you had disconnected the battery while at work, it would have been good for the drive back home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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