tankbob Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Ive waited too long to do this but Ive finally got things started. Turbo is out of the car, having a hard time getting the center and compressor apart but Ill get it(harbour freight snap ring pliers suck!). Ive got all the research done just need help with little bits, mainly what to do with my turbo as it has two very little chips on the compressor wheel. Im also not sure exactly what turbo I have, its most likely an 18g but once I get the turbo apart Ill get some pictures and measurements. When this car was my DD I trusted a mechanic to drop a new motor that ucw built for me, I knew it was a horrible idea after finding some of his mistakes earlier but taking off the turbo there is mismatched bolts/washers on both the turbo-mani and mani-head. I will be purchasing all new everything I need from DAD so no worries there. Even with the right flare wrench I stripped the lower oil line, came off the turbo just fine. Also forgot to drain coolant, sorry dad more driveway messes. I plan to find a shop that will port the exh side of the turbo with the mani and maybe port the wastegate? Im looking for any advice I can get, pictures will be uploaded soon, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Here are some pics, that ring is not willing to come out of the turbo even after soaking in pb blaster. But one of the turbo rebuild guides I was following didnt include marking the exh housing before removal(should have followed the other one), does this mean I need a professional rebuild now? Im assuming the chips on my compressor wheel are unacceptable so a pro rebuild is needed anyways?I can get the portion where pliers go to budge but the rest wont move.http://i.imgur.com/5SP6jqs.jpgCheapo turbo blanket I got for cheap off a member here, trash?http://i.imgur.com/xTN7ilu.jpgVery little like I saidhttp://i.imgur.com/ljT97sE.jpgexh wheelhttp://i.imgur.com/2EaFKhM.jpgIve got a 16g!http://i.imgur.com/k6Mv8L2.jpgMore markingshttp://i.imgur.com/iJKZo7n.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/T8LjMW8.jpgFlapperhttp://i.imgur.com/EUh8Lp1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 What a PIA that ring was but I got it out, this is the biggest of 3 chips. http://i.imgur.com/hlFpPH8.jpg Gonna take an educated guess and say thats not ok and Im gonna need a new compressor wheel, is forced performance the go to for this? Id rather find something local but no luck there yet. They do port work should I let them handle the turbo porting and then have the machine shop match the port? What options do I have for coating the mani and hotside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 a chip that size isnt going to make a difference at starion rev rangesive seen & had much worse shape compressor wheels run just fine I would try your biggest pair of needle nose pliers for the snap ring that holds the compressor housing onhave a small screwdriver ready to get underneath it once you pull it back (it likes to snap back into place)(Just saw that you got it already) a td05 rebuild kit from mitsubishi can be had for 60 bucks on ebayyou've done most of the work already good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 a chip that size isnt going to make a difference at starion rev rangesive seen & had much worse shape compressor wheels run just fine I would try your biggest pair of needle nose pliers for the snap ring that holds the compressor housing onhave a small screwdriver ready to get underneath it once you pull it back (it likes to snap back into place)(Just saw that you got it already) a td05 rebuild kit from mitsubishi can be had for 60 bucks on ebayyou've done most of the work already good luckThats great news. Can I now trust a machine shop to port my exh housing? Ive got marks to line up the center to the compressor but didnt do any on the exhaust side, will I be safe just eyeballing it? It would actually be awesome if I could even tilt the compressor side a little more left so my intercooler pipe doesnt hit my hood any more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 A chip that size will affect performance. It's just a tiny bit of weight but at the 100-200k rpm that turbo can spin that tiny weight becomes significant. It can lead to premature bearing failure. The chips can also reduce turbo performance. Could you still run it, probably. But I would replace it. How is that engine treating you btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 its the difference between 550-600 and 60 bucks to rebuild myself, how long will it last? The motor has been great so far and once this exhaust leak is fixed ill have a little more power and a quieter car. I did notice dirt/oil by by the spark plugs on #3/4 when i was working on it today but i blame turbo seals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 You can get a compressor wheel off ebay for less than a turbo rebuild kit. You just have to measure yours to make sure you are getting the correct replacement. MHI turbo wheels are balanced separately. You can put a new wheel on your turbo without needing to get it balanced. So with a wheel you're looking at $100-120. Chipped blades can also be slightly bent blades. Debris went through that wheel when it was spooled. That's how wheels get chipped. It could be weakened by the damage and shatter. It's best to just replace it. Your VC gasket is leaking. Don't push the seal into the VC. That causes leaks in the seal. Just a few dabs of RTV or grease around the perimeter to make the gasket stick to the VC while installing it. You let the force from tightening the VC bolts seat the gasket into the VC groove. Use a little RTV where the gasket meets the half moon seal and the corners where it goes over the rear cam tower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 You can get a compressor wheel off ebay for less than a turbo rebuild kit. You just have to measure yours to make sure you are getting the correct replacement. MHI turbo wheels are balanced separately. You can put a new wheel on your turbo without needing to get it balanced. So with a wheel you're looking at $100-120. Chipped blades can also be slightly bent blades. Debris went through that wheel when it was spooled. That's how wheels get chipped. It could be weakened by the damage and shatter. It's best to just replace it. Your VC gasket is leaking. Don't push the seal into the VC. That causes leaks in the seal. Just a few dabs of RTV or grease around the perimeter to make the gasket stick to the VC while installing it. You let the force from tightening the VC bolts seat the gasket into the VC groove. Use a little RTV where the gasket meets the half moon seal and the corners where it goes over the rear cam tower.Awesome thanks jeff, should I try and get my exh side and mani ceramic coated? Im looking to do any little upgrades while Ive got things apart. Ive already got a list of parts to go to the powder coater so if i could get those two coated to minimize heat and look cool thatd be sweet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 You have a mostly stock car. Ceramic coating isn't gonna add much performance if any. It's mainly gonna be about looks. If you want to pay for the look then ok. If you're looking for performance save your $. You can get much better results from a good port job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 (edited) Manifold is out of car with no studs stuck in head!!! This was the biggest thing I was scared to mess up but I got lucky the studs came out smooth. Looks like my manifold is completely stock so Im off to the machine shop to get it planed and casting marks removed, and stress relieved. Hoping they can remove the step and port match my turbine to the mani. update: mani and exh housing are off at the machine shop, they are gonna do everything I wanted except port the wastegate since it has two cracks and there isnt much room left on the flapper to make it bigger. When I get it back Ill smooth it out a little. Gonna start ordering all my parts now aswell, I might need some help picking the right compressor wheel. Edited January 30, 2015 by tankbob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Got a few links here not sure which one to buy, does it need to include the center shaft for it to come balanced? Im looking for a small 16g correct? worth the extra 20$ for a billet one? $25? seems too cheaphttp://www.ebay.com/itm/16G-Turbo-Compressor-Wheel-for-Mitsubishi-TD05H-/121453910087?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c47379847&vxp=mtrhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Compressor-Wheel-Mitsubishi-TD05H-Small-16G-DSM-Eclipse-Talon-Eagle-/381126351643?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58bce69b1b&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 I'm not a fan of "stress relieving" the manifold. It doesn't really relieve any stress in a positive way. Mainly what it does is allow the runners to move out of position if they want to. #4 especially could move a bit making the manifold not line up with the studs. The movement may be slight. Many say just drill the hole in the mani a little bigger and it will fit. To me that's a poor fix. If the manifold moves at all then the ports don't line up perfectly. Not a big loss in power but it is a loss. Counter productive. I worked in an exhaust shop years ago and every manifold I saw that had the webbing cut between the ports had fitment issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Got a few links here not sure which one to buy, does it need to include the center shaft for it to come balanced? Im looking for a small 16g correct? worth the extra 20$ for a billet one? $25? seems too cheaphttp://www.ebay.com/...7379847&vxp=mtrhttp://www.ebay.com/...ce69b1b&vxp=mtr I don't know if it will work. You have to measure yours then look for one with similar measurements. There are 3 16g sizes I know of. MHI big and little, and china 16g. The new wheel will be balanced on it's own. No need for re-balancing. Just use a drop of loctite and torque it to spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 (edited) I don't know if it will work. You have to measure yours then look for one with similar measurements. There are 3 16g sizes I know of. MHI big and little, and china 16g. The new wheel will be balanced on it's own. No need for re-balancing. Just use a drop of loctite and torque it to spec.Ive got a height of 30mm, exducer is 68mm, and inducer is 48. Problem is I did those measurements carefully with a ruler I need that special digital one(micrometer?) So Ive got a mhi big 16g and the measurements Im seeing for those wheels are 31.5mm, 68mm, and 48.3 This fits the bill and its fancy worth the extra 40$?http://www.ebay.com/...4b0dc2c&vxp=mtr Best deal I foundhttp://www.ebay.com/...m-/121397566841 After reasearching the billet wheel isnt worth the money, bought that 40$ one. Edited January 30, 2015 by tankbob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 A digital caliper is always nice to have but it sounds like you got the measurements right. Go to harbor freight and get some measuring tools. I've got a dial caliper from there. It works good and is pretty accurate. I got mine for $5 years ago. They can't be too much more now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 A digital caliper is always nice to have but it sounds like you got the measurements right. Go to harbor freight and get some measuring tools. I've got a dial caliper from there. It works good and is pretty accurate. I got mine for $5 years ago. They can't be too much more now.I was just there too, I always look around for stuff I might need since its a bit of a drive. Everything I read on getting the manifold off said you need short and stubby gear wrenches but one set is 25$. Bought the stubby ones and you dont even really need them I still have a couple questions that havnt been answered though. Should I get a new turbo blanket? Mine was torn when I removed it. And does it matter that I didnt mark the exhaust housing before removal? If it does I can get it really close but if it doesnt Id like to position the cold side lower so my intercooler pipe doesnt hit my hood when I close it. Thanks for all the help jeff, Ive gotten lots of help from others members but you always got my back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 depending on your turbo there might be an alignment nipple on the center section or compressor housing, it will not mesh unless they are aligned. on the other hand grind the alignment nipple off and clock it as you wish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 The blanket looks somewhat intact. You could reuse it or replace, it's your call. Personally for stockish turbo setups I like the stock heat shields. It gives the car a hasn't been modified look. Great for smog tests because they always want to disqualify you on something visual. Park the car on level ground. Bolt the hot side to the manifold first. Then install the chra on the hot side making the top level. Install the clamp just tight enough to hold the chra. Then fit the compressor side on and clock to your desired position. Stock setup is top bolt location is level. Be aware of the WG actuator angle. You can move it slightly but only so far before the actuator will bind. Then mark with a pen. Remove chra and cold side and install cold side snap ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Sweet I should have just enough room to get it how I want, as for the "stock" look Im far past that. No emissions equipment here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) Got all my parts in, just waiting on the hot side and mani from the machine shop. Pulled apart the turbo today but Im not sure what to clean it with the two guides and instructions from gpop dont mention anything specific. There is a good bit of carbon on the backside of the chra, I blame the PO Im pretty good at driving easy 5-10 minutes before parking or letting it run before shutting her off.These two were the only things in the kit that didnt come off my turbo, are these not used?http://i.imgur.com/ocVKyTLl.jpgHow I fixed the harbor freight snap ring pliers, it would come apart under pressure.http://i.imgur.com/ekIlIfdl.jpg Edited February 9, 2015 by tankbob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Scrape it off with a screwdriver and a pick. Then wire brush it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted February 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Scrape it off with a screwdriver and a pick. Then wire brush it.What about those two little snap rings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 If you mean the rings on the turbine shaft, they aren't snap rings. They are kinda like piston rings. They keep exhaust pressure away from the bearings. You get new ones in the rebuild kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 the kit is for several versions of the td05 for several applications if those snap rings didnt come off your turbo but came in the kit, they aren't needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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