JasonM Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 My car started deacclerating out of nowhere. When I put the car in neutral it shut off but was able to get start it back up by jump starting it since the car was still rolling. Manage to get home and then the next day, I try to start it and it just cranks over. I've checked the ECI fusible link and it looks good as well as the rest of them except for black fusible link that I haven't checked. I was using my power probe and with the ignition switch on, I was only getting power to the blue wire that goes into the ECI control relay. I get no power to the ecu and to the fuel pump. I powered probe the fuel pump and it does turn on. Is the ECI fusible link suppose to send power to the control relay at all times or only when the ignition switch is on? I've check a few grounds and they look fine expect one which is hanging on there with a few wires. I believe that ground wire is by the egr valve. I have the service manual for this car and if you guys can be detailed as you can be I would appreciate it. Due to the lack of time I have of having 2 jobs I would not get another chance to troubleshoot the car til hopefully this weekend or next week. Any info from everyone will be helpful and I will reply back when I get the chance. By the way on the service manual, what does the abbreviation means for ST and AM on the ignition switch part. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 ECI fuse link has power 100% of the time. It feeds the ECI relay that also has power to it 100% of the time. Large red wire at the relay if I remember correctly. Check the fuse link for corrosion. The black wire next to the EGR is for a noise filtering capacitor which is a little black box next to the coil. It goes to coil + and ground. Hook it up or don't, makes no difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonM Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 I've checked the fusible link for corrosion and it's in good shape. It also gets voltage at both ends. Now that you mentioned it, need to figure out why voltage is not getting to the ECI control relay from the fusible link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 First of all fix the ground wire at the egr valve Right NOW. If you don't you WILL weld the accelerator cable cuz that cable becomes the ground wire if the EGR ground is bad. I would suggest that you remove inspect, clean & test the ignition switch and replace it if needed. See the below link for how to dismantle it and what to look for. The switches contacts are probably corroded from 20 some odd years of crusty grease and / or pitting. http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1189&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=50 For What it's Worth. KEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 (edited) First of all fix the ground wire at the egr valve Right NOW. If you don't you WILL weld the accelerator cable cuz that cable becomes the ground wire if the EGR ground is bad. Ken you're thinking of a different ground. The ground on the EGR is the noise filtering capacitor for the ignition coil. (18 ga wire) Not really needed. Wont cause Accel cable welding The ground under the TB is the ECU sensor ground. (10 ga wire) Wont cause accel cable welding. As long as the main ground is good then not having this one wont cause any glitches. But it should be there. The ground on the block is the main battery ground. (4 ga wire) If this one isn't there it will cause accel cable welding and lots of other electrical issues. Edited July 9, 2014 by ucw458 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonM Posted October 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 Unable to start a new topic for some reason. Currently I've been trying to get my car started but it's just cranking. Last month I was able to get it running but it was misfiring. Now during the time it was running I've replaced the distributor, Maf, spark plug wires and spark plugs are fairly new. The distributor , MAF and spark plug wires were used parts but the car is still misfiring like before so there's no change. I believe it's not a ECI issue. Today, I have fuel, spark, and my mechanical and distributor timing are correct. Don't know what else to check for, maybe a sensor that prevent the car to start. Any input will be helpful. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 A compression check is always good to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonM Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 I'm going to do that when I get a compression tester Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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