creakyjoints Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j442/creakyjoints/5-11-201312-32-21PM_zps0889435c.jpg http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j442/creakyjoints/5-11-201312-30-45PM_zps516a5b99.jpg http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j442/creakyjoints/5-11-201312-29-50PM_zps6083b49e.jpg http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j442/creakyjoints/5-11-201312-27-55PM_zps612a4c5c.jpg http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j442/creakyjoints/5-11-201312-23-57PM_zps175bf403.jpg And just because she is so SEXY!http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j442/creakyjoints/3677250760_ea7f581a91_b_zpsbdfefae8.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tux Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Wish I could help, but I have no clue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creakyjoints Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Well car cracked a head and spun a rod bearing with this tune so I am a little worried! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 too much timing down low. 30deg adv is too much for 10psi. Aswell, 34deg is also too much. the best thing to do is post a datalog screen shot. what turbo and boost?what fuel? can you make any WOT pulls? cracked head and chewed up bearing should id a hot cyli der and detonation. Any pitting in the cyl or along the piston crowns? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creakyjoints Posted May 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 (edited) Funky. Engine is out right now. Pistons dont have any damage. Block has some light scratches. In fact machinist says I can reuse them. Gt35r pump race gas blend. Was done before I got the car so not sure what the ratio was. Crank had to be turned and the one rod big end resized. The mains are really loose though right at the wear limit. They better be willing to regrind the crank to some tighter clearances! Already out cost of bearings because of them and my time. This was QuestTsi's old ca P.S. I was talking to the machinist about the deck on as when I cleaned it up (using white ROLOC) that the driver (intake) side was nice and flat but the passenger (exhaust) side has low (pitted) areas where the roloc couldnt clean. He says could be heat related. Edited May 18, 2013 by creakyjoints Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted May 18, 2013 Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 With boost comp turned on, you can basically find the right fuel setting at each rpm and from about 3-5psi all the way to the top of the map, the number stays the same. I never looked at pulse width, always RAW. switch to raw. better yet, can you send me the file to look at? I'll PM you my email. Timing looks aggressive like phil said. Is there any idle control on this car? if not, don't worry about having it on. Knock control is pretty alright with AEM so if you aren't using it, please start. You'll have to tune the knock table. Might need a knock amp, some headphones and lots of patience or a dyno tune session. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted May 20, 2013 Report Share Posted May 20, 2013 I sent you an email back with my last .cal file. There is a lot left to be desired about that setup. You need to get it tuned by a competent tuner. You also need to have a pump gas tune and a race gas tune, NONE of this pump/race gas blend garbage. There will inevitably be a mistake as you can't know exactly how much fuel is in the tank, and/or someone else fills the car up or something. Two tune files is easy and much better, and with ECU boost control, you'll never forget to change boost settings. My tuner made a post on facebook the other day that they are booked solid more than 6 weeks out. There's a reason for that. You can see evidence in my .cal file. Safe tunes that make power and are daily drivable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts