redzedturbo Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 okay this car of my brothers (86 tsi) made the trip home from Tennessee to Kentucky with leaking fuel and coolant and a coil arcing to the shock tower bad vac lines and the list goes on. Anyways the thing ran and drove rather well but had a idle problem. when we got it home we took the tbi off the manifold cleaned it and replaced all gaskets and seals. then the injectors were leaking from the clip area so i ordered 2 trilogy 850cc injectors. replaced all vac lines and fuel pump and filters and fuel soft lines. the po had just put a new pump in and it done died! now the car will not even idle or rev. i checked timing and all plugs wires cap and rotor and coil i replaced and are working correctly. i done the tps/isc reset and got .48v from the tps. it will do nothing but foul plugs while cranking now. i took the ovcp off and jive it the old carb treatment pouring some gas in the tb and it started right up and ran for 20 seconds just fine. so im thinking the new injectors suck i put the leaky ones back in and they dont leak anymore oddly and i will start and idle but will not rev. im new to the g54b but not new to building cars and trouble shooting what gives guys? bad regulator possibly it seems to have good fuel pressure but i have to go get a gauge to check for sure. I feel like this after two days of fighting with this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cloud81918 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Silly question, but is the O2 sensor connected. My car gave me simular crap today, disconnected O2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor_Drift Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 yeah and looks new to boot we cleaned connector also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor_Drift Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 the car will run and rev with the ovcp off but not with it on. my fuel filter has trash in it and my new injectors were also stopped up badly. going to flush fuel system tomorrow and install new filters again. replacing the injector filters also. will stay updated guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted March 6, 2013 Report Share Posted March 6, 2013 Check your fuel pressure. Make sure the vacuum lines are correctly installed, especially the MAP sensor on the firewall near the brake booster. It's about 3"x2" and has one vacuum port on the bottom, and a 5/6 wire plug. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor_Drift Posted March 6, 2013 Report Share Posted March 6, 2013 al vac lines are correct think i just have trash in the fuel system. my new injectors got filled full of junk and all my new filters are stopped up. going to flush everything and hope it will run. i should have bought a nissan lmao Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 A neglected Nissan would be the same troubles, and it would be much much much less cooler. Plus, a Nissan wouldn't get you that far leaking fuel, coolant, and arcing and still "drive pretty well" lol. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 i know this is a long shot but i had the same problem. i gutted my pre cat and removed thesecondary cat. still ran bad. this is what fixed my problem. if the car runs lean or real hot and will notaccelerate when floored. check the cone filter that is before the fuel pump. mine was clogged realbad. Once i cleaned it the car ran perfectly. located here right where the hose connects to the fuel pump. when you pull the hose becarefulthe cone filter might be inside the hose once removed from the pump. There was so much stuffin mine it was almost half filled with junk. i just rinsed it out with the garden hose let it dry and putit back in. made a huge difference in my cars performance. http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/557/sdc12288f.jpg http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/9153/sdc12292k.jpg in my car the tip of the cone filter was pointing towards the fuel pump.opposite of the pic below. http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/551/sdc12291.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redzedturbo Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 hey thanks for the info i will check again but i did not see one when i installed the new pump on this car. but i used a mr gasket 10 micron 3/8 clear filter in the pickup line to the pump. works well and you can go to your local parts store and get 3 replacement filters for like 5 bucks. we replaced the maf today runs much better above idle well at least it will run with it plugged up it would not even do that before. bad maf i guess? still waiting on a isc to get here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 If it's a glass filter housing, I would not use that there. Wix part # 33278, or equivalent is a safer way to go. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redzedturbo Posted March 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 (edited) I have used the clear filters many times for viewing crap in fuel line its not a perm fix just testing and when it runs clean will replace it with a wix ftw. anyway this car sounds like its missing and popping out the exhaust at idle but i cant see why the whole ignition system is new from plugs/wires to coil and cap and rotor.it will drive okay for a few miles then starts bucking and stalls if i hit the throttle. when i first left the drive way and the car was up to temp with fans running it left the drive way sideways and rolled the tires in second and i thought it might be okay but no the longer i drive it the worse it gets what gives guys please help this poor 86! also new maf both coolant sensors all new vac lines timing set to 10 deg's new fuel filters and pump cleaned tank and lines with acid they look like fresh steel now. when we got back home it would rev only to 4000 rpm with my foot to the floor and when it reached 4000 it sounds like the fuel pump turns off and the rpm's fall untill it dies unless i lift off the pedal? wt.... i don't what to do set it on fire or go megasquirt! please please help!!!! OH and importwarrior that pre pump filter is gone! Edited March 28, 2013 by redzedturbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 Like I said earlier, you need to verify your MAP sensor is connected properly. The MAP sensor includes the boost solenoid/altitude solenoid, if not connected properly it will cause the ECU to read the atmospheric pressure wrong and the engine will want to die after about 2 minutes. is your MAP sensor connected?? It's on the firewall and is connected by a vac line. Hang on for a pic...http://home.comcast.net/~DriftAbility/images/Komeuppance/BoostSensor.jpg If you are sure there are no boost leaks, those two sensors are integral for your car to run properly. Boost/Altitude Solenoid on the left(arrow) and the MAP sensor on the right. -RobertEvery 2 minutes... it'll just crap out?? If so, it's your altitude solenoid. It's on the firewall, looks barrel shaped. Let me see if I can find a pic... Looking at the pic:The vac line on the LEFT (passenger side) is from the intake manifold(top port above the row of 3)Vac line on the RIGHT (Driver's side) goes to a vac hose that runs along the firewall to the passenger fender to the air can area - Or you can leave it open.Vac line pointing DOWN (It should be pointing down, but it's not in that pic) goes to the Boost Sensor, the box thing right next to the altitude solenoid. -RobertAltitude solenoid. Do you have your MAP sensor (aka Pressure Sensor, black box on the firewall above the brake booster) connected properly?? The vac line should run to the altitude sensor (aka Boost Solenoid, small black cylinder with three vac ports next to the brake booster). The altitude sensor will have a vac line that runs to the intake manifold just below the throttle body. It should be connected to a vac port closest to the firewall. If you still have your stock boost gauge installed you can see if the MAP sensor is working correctly. Got a pic, thanks to Couth:http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/6207/dscf00801272096.jpgOn the left (with blue spade connectors is the solenoid[substituted] and the right is the MAP sensor) That is what I would rectify first. After that, you need to check to see your CTS (coolant temp sensor) is working correctly, and then do a proper TPS/ISC reset. Here's the proper 86 TPS/ISC reset procedure:http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=27979 -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redzedturbo Posted March 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 I checked and the two lines coming out of the Altitude solenoid were swapped when blowing thru the line from the intake it blows out the bottom port and it was run to the air filter box and not the boost sensor so i swapped them around still the problem continues and i have done the tps/isc reset. tps is at .48v thanks for the pics tho very helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redzedturbo Posted March 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 Okay the hose barb to the map sensor has a crack in it. So im posting in the wanted section. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted March 29, 2013 Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 If you have the emissions stuff still on, there is a solenoid bolted onto the throttle body area that looks should have three ports, one with a yellow dot, and two wire connection. That solenoid will sometimes substitute for an altitude solenoid. If you look at the second picture I posted up above, that is the substituted solenoid with correct connections. You can also try and fix your broken one, some JB weld, or plastic epoxy will work fine. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redzedturbo Posted March 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 Can i run from the intake straight to the map sensor on the firewall? just not use a valve at all if its not needed this car will never leave state or change alt enough to matter. If the ecu will freak out i may just leave it plugged up and not use it.Also i tried some lock tite 1 min epoxy and let it dry for 20 mins and it broke right off as soon as i put the hose back on lol oh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redzedturbo Posted April 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 well today it ran with the maf plugged up for about ten miles boost gauge was reading correctly. car was fully up to temp with fans on when i left it was running good enough to spin 1-2 well and have fun the gauge started reading 0 vac at idle and it bucked some at part throttle then was reading boost at idle and it was bucking so bad i could not give it any throttle so i stopped it would rev fine but if i loaded it up with the clutch it would fall on its face and stall almost could not get it in the driveway. what are symptoms of a bad map sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 Those issues sound like a bad MAF on a 87-89 car, but with the MAF-MAP combo on 86s, it's more confusing. I think with a bad MAP, it won't run at all. I know on my MPI car when the map sensor hose popped off after the dyno once, the car went ultra pig rich and barely drove, engine dying all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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