Gamble88 Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Took the car home from my moms house today and I reseated the fuel injector clips which are new (because it did the same problem on the way to my parents house) The car idles good and ran pretty well for the first 3 miles. (I even found a broke vacuum line on the throttle body and fixed it and put a T fitting for the boost gauge) After say 3 miles (ish) it runs like complete crap. Stumbles, back fires, floor it and it does literally nothing. RPMs fall and it wants to stall when i floor it. Partial throttle it does nothing. I basically had to just let out the clutch and not give it any gas for a short while then I was able to give it a little gas and make it home. Injector clips are new.Cosmo intake with stock maf. That's basically it. I did notice a drop of fuel around the top seal of the injector closest to the driver side fender so I am going to order a new set of injectors, and throttle body rebuild kit. Hopefully that is easy. Also I ordered a new fuel filter. Any other thoughts/ideas or where to start? I would like to do a fuel pump (wally 190) but not sure what 6an fittings I would need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 My money is on your coolant temp sensor. It would make sense that after about 3 minutes of driving it driving like crud in that scenario. See, when your car is cold its actually running a base fuel map that disregards a lot of the input coming from the sensors for the engine which is probably why it runs ok in those first few minutes. After the engine warms up what should happen is the car should see that the coolant temp is high enough and transfer control of the fuel to the ecu. It sounds like that's not happening for you. Just a thought. Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamble88 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 (edited) Just ordered the following: The wrong coolant temp sensorthe right coolant temp sensornew injectors with orings and boltsnew fuel filterthrottle body rebuild kit Next on the list is going to be a fuel pump with 6an line and rotors/pads. Then whatever else I need. Edited March 12, 2012 by Gamble88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 You put new clips on, but did you clean the terminals on the injectors themselves? They get mucked up too. Also check all your intercooler piping, see if anything's come loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NudeLobster Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Just ordered the following: The wrong coolant temp sensorthe right coolant temp sensornew injectors with orings and boltsnew fuel filterthrottle body rebuild kit Next on the list is going to be a fuel pump with 6an line and rotors/pads. Then whatever else I need.^ that literally made me LOL. I can't remember, but did you replace the 02 sensor yet? If I remember correctly the car runs rich if the 02 is bad. Could be dumping too much fuel if that combines with other bad sensors and safe modes. I was getting 8mpg when i first got my car. CTS, 02, and MAF later and I was up to 14 -Justin -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Did you check compression and look at your spark plugs? Had you sent those injectors to be cleaned? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 (edited) Two things come to mind. One crap in the fuel tank that clogs the in tank filter after a few miles. (and than falls off after the car sits a few minutes). And 2 a isc idle position switch that is failed in the closed idle position. To check the fuel system you must start at the in tank filer and the cone filter the factory pumps have at the pump inlet. These can be accessed through the hatch. While the pick up is out shine a light in the tank to look for crap and rust. If the fuel is slow to drain out of the in tank filer when it is pulled from a container of gas it is clogged. It is a dealer part, but They are cheep so have another on hand. After your car warms up try disconnecting the isc motor plug closes to the fire wall and see if it runs different. An isc idle switch failed in the closed position can cut the fuel off around 2000 rpm + or -., But no sputtering is involved the motor just cuts on and off as the rpm rise and that fall. You can check the cts with an ohm meter. with the car warmed up. disconnect the plug and take a reading. If it will not run well enough to warm up disconnect the plug, the ecu will than fuel the engine as if it is warm. In cold weather you will may need to pedal the car to get it stated and warmed up with the cts disconnected. Edited March 12, 2012 by StarquestRescue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamble88 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 You put new clips on, but did you clean the terminals on the injectors themselves? They get mucked up too. Also check all your intercooler piping, see if anything's come loose. Yes I did. I used a wire brush and some contact cleaner. ^ that literally made me LOL. I can't remember, but did you replace the 02 sensor yet? If I remember correctly the car runs rich if the 02 is bad. Could be dumping too much fuel if that combines with other bad sensors and safe modes. I was getting 8mpg when i first got my car. CTS, 02, and MAF later and I was up to 14 -Justin -JustinYes I did. Did you check compression and look at your spark plugs? Had you sent those injectors to be cleaned? Spark plugs have maybe 10 miles on them now. Compression is 110,90,110,110 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamble88 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Two things come to mind. One crap in the fuel tank that clogs the in tank filter after a few miles. (and than falls off after the car sits a few minutes). And 2 a isc idle position switch that is failed in the closed idle position. To check the fuel system you must start at the in tank filer and the cone filter the factory pumps have at the pump inlet. These can be accessed through the hatch. While the pick up is out shine a light in the tank to look for crap and rust. If the fuel is slow to drain out of the in tank filer when it is pulled from a container of gas it is clogged. It is a dealer part, but They are cheep so have another on hand. Got a link on how to do this? The stock pump looks like a complain to come off. So i'm assuming the filter is attached to it as well.Who sells an IAC/ISC? I didn't see one online or at autozone. After your car warms up try disconnecting the isc motor plug closes to the fire wall and see if it runs different. An isc idle switch failed in the closed position can cut the fuel off around 2000 rpm + or -., But no sputtering is involved the motor just cuts on and off as the rpm rise and that fall. You can check the cts with an ohm meter. with the car warmed up. disconnect the plug and take a reading. If it will not run well enough to warm up disconnect the plug, the ecu will than fuel the engine as if it is warm. In cold weather you will may need to pedal the car to get it stated and warmed up with the cts disconnected. I will try that this week if I have time, but not going to worry about an OHM reading on the CTS since I ordered a new one.I'm going to rebuild the throttle body this week, hopefully Wednesday night if everything shows up, anything I need to know or look out for? What is the tps reading supposed to be at, because i'll probably take it off to clean the entire throttle body. Maybe. Anyone ever also port their throttle body? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMNDSTAR87 Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 (edited) Got a link on how to do this? The stock pump looks like a complain to come off. So i'm assuming the filter is attached to it as well.Who sells an IAC/ISC? I didn't see one online or at autozone. I will try that this week if I have time, but not going to worry about an OHM reading on the CTS since I ordered a new one.I'm going to rebuild the throttle body this week, hopefully Wednesday night if everything shows up, anything I need to know or look out for? What is the tps reading supposed to be at, because i'll probably take it off to clean the entire throttle body. Maybe. Anyone ever also port their throttle body? tps/isc reset adjust and throttle body rebuild are covered here--- starquest.i.-x.net -- -isc/mps no longer available new as far as i know---used are available---testing procedures for isc/mps and tps are on link also---tps .048-.052v---u can download service manuals of the site---they are an invaluable tool----throttle bodies can be opened up to about 52mm(intake should be ported to match) I cut the access hole for fuel pump a tad larger to make it easy to remove pump and just fabbed up a sheet metal cover---gig out Edited March 12, 2012 by DMNDSTAR87 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87chyconquest Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 check the maf plug. mine was doing this and i didnt have the maf plug seated good enough wiggled it a bit and ran fine. or you could do what im doing and rip it all out and go mpi with no maf. good luck keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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