speedbling Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 this is what i have, its an 88 tsi, with the complete T.E.P. "race motor" that i took almost everything out of its engine bay and junked years ago. I bought a rusty runner so i could start with an all stock setup to better address any problems that might come up. I have almost 2 of everything. i did also upgrade the feul pump to an inline 255 with a before and after new feul filters. the runner drove great with no problems that i noticed a month long before i dove into it. now with all the parts i needed on my original car the problems are creeping up. i have replaced the injector terminals already and that fixed one issue. but now it breaks up real bad as soon as it hits 6-7 psi (sputters, back fires) until it falls back below that. i have sanded the terminals on the injectors changed them with another set. now i have spent the better part of a day searching for related problems that others have had. one thing keeped coming up, reset the tps. im not much for comprehending what i read, im more show me how. but the instructions on the faq for this are conflicting. there are 2 sets of instruction one under the other and they dont agree on some steps unless im reading it wrong and they are for 2 different procedures. any and all help is apprciated. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 TPS isn't necessary to drive the car it only makes it more driveable. You've got dirty injectors and or spark plug issues. What spark plugs you using? You tested your vac. adv.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedbling Posted March 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 The sparkplugs are also about as old as the motor but again only used just recently. I don't mind changing them and it is on my list of things to try (ngk 7031) . What should I gap them to and what if any factors come into play when coming up with proper gap. Like compression, or cam. I will also use the vac advance from the running car to see if that helps. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 Your injectors need sent out and cleaned. www.rceng.com and the vac. adv. is easy to test. Take the dist. cap off and the rotor, put a hose on it and suck, watch the arm pull in then cover the end of the hose with your tongue and the arm must stay pulled in if not its bad and you must replace it. It will sort of pull in for advancing ignition but it won't retard timing when there is boost so your knock sensor sends the signal to the ECU and the ECU tells the ignitor to pull timing back and it won't boost, rev up and kicks and jerks. You may also need to get a timing light and check your base timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedbling Posted March 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 New cap, new plugs (ngk 7084 no one had the 7061) new wires, new wires, new cap, new rigor, distributer from other running car with working vac adv,new coil. I'll try to get the timing done by a professional but that's all I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 You can get a timing light at a flea market or thrift store or you could get a new one at Sears or some auto part store for 50-90 which if you have to pay for someone to do this you might as well just buy your own light and do it yourself then you'll have it. All you do it clip its lead around the #1 plug wire, clip the leads to your battery for power and pull the trigger and aim it at the crank pulley and watch the flash. You turn the distributor until the notch lines up with the 10btdc mark on the timing cover. This is lined up at TDC, you want the second mark to the lefthttp://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM002985.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 Now, click this link and order you 4 of these spark plugs http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog,100,partnum,7031,d,NGK_7031.html Those plugs you got suck, you would have been better off with 99 cent bosch. The smaller the electrode and the bigger that gap around the tip the easier they are to foul and that's the problem. The 7031 plugs roll the tip close to the insulator so fuel can't get in there and end up as carbon plus what does is flaked off cause they spark around the opening and resist fouling. Either of these are what you want, you got a heat range 6 plug now and I don't know what year you car is but those are for non intercooled stock boost level cars. You got this. Plenty of room around the insulator and easy to foul. Fouled plugs from being too rich is the source of the misfire under boost and poor idle. http://images.stylintrucks.com/product_images/350x350/ngk_spark_plugs/I_022296_SW_1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedbling Posted March 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 Ok got the new plugs ordered 7084s were put in just this morning. Instead of having the injectors cleaned what about just upgrading to the trilogys . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 (edited) New cap, new plugs (ngk 7084 no one had the 7061) NGK 7031s can be found here: http://www.rockauto.com Try them first at stock gap out of the box. If that doesn't work, try them at .039 in. Bill Edited March 10, 2012 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedbling Posted March 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 Could a boost leak cause it break up under boost. I reinstalled a heat shield to day and forgot to tighten the hose clamp on the turbo which caused it to run very bad. It felt similar to what it does now under full boost only it only much worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 11, 2012 Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 Its hard for a stock turbo to make any boost with a leaky hose. Maybe, maybe not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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