bkgsquad Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 hey all once again i need ur help with some bucking studdering isuues.i have replaced the following:vac advanceplugs and wirescap and rotormsd blaster coilinjectors and clipsremoved 1g mas and bovput back stock setupreset tps/isctiming is 10 tdcwhen its cold it bucks a bit when i give it gas regardless wht gear i'm in.It is running way better than it use to but it still has an issue and i honestlydo not know wht to do next.It is not leaking any fuel from injectors or tb.i have done alot of stuff to the car as far as trying to make it a daily driverbut i'm stumped right now.plz help before i give up and get rid of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 What Injectors are you now using? If you are using the stock injectors: Check them for the ohm readings - should be less than 3 ohms per '88 FSM, 14-69. If more than that the injector is shot. Have you had the stock injectors cleaned? Check your Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) for proper operation per the "88 FSM, page 14-64 and check it's electrical connector metal terminals for corrosion and that it fits tightly onto the CTS male ends. Is you timing 10 deg before or after TDC? It should be before. For What It's Worth. KEN Edit - Have you made sure that the rats nest of engine vacuum tubing is hooked up correctly and that there are no cracks or holes in it? See this link for the vacuum tubing diagrams. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=75476 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkgsquad Posted November 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 i'm running trilogy injectors,it did the same with the stock ones as well.the timing,i'm not sure where it's at,someone else did it for me so i idkif it's set before or after but he did tell me it's at 10tdc.i did not think that the cts would cause a problem but i will replace thattomorrow cause the one on there looks kinda f'd up.today driving home it really ran like crap!!! i mean really bad like buckingas if i was just learning how to drive manual type of bucking.i had to get off the expwy it was bucking so bad.It was snapping and poppingway too much and too loud out the exhaust also.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 maybe dissy is sticking from old grease!!! needs rebuield .it sticks than it brakes free!!! Making timing jump back and forth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironside Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Check all the vacume lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkgsquad Posted November 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 would a bad dizzy cause my idle to be erratic and cause all that popping and poof noise from my exhaust?where can i get another dizzy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkgsquad Posted November 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 all lines have been checked and or replaced.i'm running out of patience.i'm sure u guyscan understand my frustation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 When you install a new CTS and make sure that it's electrical connector metal terminals are clean and tight. How does she run now? If it still runs bad: Pull the spark plugs and if they are fouled up replace 'em. How does she run now? What gap did you originally set your new spark plugs at and what kind of plugs are you running? If it still runs bad: Check ALL of your intercooler tubing hose connectors for clamp tightness and the hoses for cracks/holes. Especially the hose between the OVCP and the TB. It likes to crack underneath where you can not see it - so take it off, flex it and look at it. Make sure that all of the intercooler air hose clamps are tight at the intercooler. Were/are you getting black smoke out of the exhaust? Does the accordian hose between the air filter cannister & the turbo have ANY holes or cracks in it and is it tightly clamped to the turbo inlet and the air cannister. Have you run a set of error codes with the engine fully warmed up? See the Starquest FAQ's for how to do this. This will tell you if the O2 sensor is FUBAR and if the MAS / air flow sensor in the air filter cannister is functioning properly. If you have the MAS/Air Flow sensor error code, troubleshoot it per '88 FSM, page 14-63. In your OP you said the you had a 1G MAS the car and then went back to the OEM stock unit. Are you sure that the MAS/AFS electrical connector pins are not damaged or altered; and there is no corrosion on the male and female sides of the metal pins metal terminals? Find out what engine timing is set at - cuz if it is 10 deg after TDC the engine will run like crap. How many miles are on the engine cuz it might might be out of time between the crank shaft and the cam. The timing chain tensioner may be worn out and the engine was turned in the counterclock wise direction at some time and the timing chain jumped a tooth or two. To check this see the SOS Manuals http://starquest.i-x...30024aa90ee6aca Are you absolutely positive that your new vacuum advance is for a turbo charged Starquest not a 2.6 L, G54B engine? To give a quick and dirty check of your dizzy, remove the dizzy cap and suck on the vacuum tubing to verify that the vacuum advance moves smoothly as you suck more and more. Then let the vacuum off of the hose and watch the Vacuum advance linkage move smoothly back to the "neutral" position. If it doesn't move smoothly then the dizzy is gunked up. It's easily rebuildable but a rebuilt one is available from PQ. See http://starquest.i-x...opic.php?t=1131 ThIs may be off the wall - are you running a Starquest turbo PCV valve? Is the hose between the PCV and the intake manifold cracked or have a hole in it and are it's hose clamps tight? Pull your engine oil dip stick and smell the oil on it for gas. If it smells from gas dump your oil and replace it NOW cuz you are trashing ALL of the engine bearings. For What It's Worth. KEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkgsquad Posted November 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 wow lot of information,and i appreciate it. i'm gonna do all that on the weekend .thks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FRO Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Also check the fuel filters. All of them Unhook the fuel line from the TB. Get a 20oz plastic bottle, stick the end of the line in the bottle. Unhook the coil wire from the coil. Have a buddy crank the engine for a few seconds. This will give you a good guess to how much fuel you are getting. It should fill 1/2 of the bottle in 5-7 seconds. If you have a weak or inconsistent flow check :Screen in tank at pickup tubecone screen just before fuel pump(sometimes it is in the hose)Fuel pump(if OEM replacing it recommend)Fuel filter in engine comp Also you might want to check the fuel pressure regulator, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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