Jump to content

High idle and sputtering


idioticmoney
 Share

Recommended Posts

Just purchased a new starion last week and am in love with her. She runs strong but need just a little work to be perfect. I'm not at all a machanic but can follow instructions pretty well. She idles at about 2k. Is that normal for starquests? Also sputters occasionally at around 4k. She is running rich, iss that something that could be associated with it? Please any information would be helpful. Thanks
Link to comment
Share on other sites

you need to check those codes in the glove box. there is a plug there where you can hook up a light or meter. someone here should be able to direct you on which pins to connect to it or a link on how to do it

 

Then after you get those codes you should go from there and trouble shoot and correct them. I recommend doing that first so you can get an idea where to start or you'll get everyone her saying check this, check that, do this, do that. You'll be running in circles trying to assume what the problem is but it's just better to let the computer give you what it reads. after you clear those from doing what you need to do and you don't get anymore codes then it's time to take some educated guess on what the problem might be if you have more symptoms that the computer doesn't register.

 

That is my advice to you don't have to follow them. Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh my goodness I come back here to see your progress and you haven't even started on the items I recommend. what's the point of people here giving you advice and your just going to ingnor them. Here i quote you "I'm not at all a machanic but can follow instructions pretty well."

 

I haven't see you attempt to try to look at the link that Caliber308 sent you. If you open the link and open the 1988 Service Manual and look at page Pg. 49, 14-49 you will see the ECI System Inspection where I told you to get the error codes. Follow the manual and get the codes. Then you can diagnose your issues the computer is telling you that you have. You have to have a starting point instead of running around like you head is cut off.

 

If your just going to tell everyone that your car is not working and not do the things people tell you to check then your not going to get anywhere close to fixing your car. Don't be like those idiot mechanics and just start changing things on your car because you think it's bad. you need to check and make sure it's bad. For all you know you might just need to adjust something or clean something. Our cars are very finicky and the slightest thing that is not adjusted or a leak can make these cars run like crap. If your not going to try to make an effort to try the things we suggest then you will never get your car to run right.

 

You want to remove variables not add more. Work and remove the errors that the computer give. Don't add more variables by changing stuff and not even knowing if it's bad.

Edited by alp247
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was getting ready to go to autozone to try and get help with the codes thing. I don't have any things to hook up to and read codes and then came across the problem with having to jump start it so I mentioned it assuming it was a genaric type of question. And for the manual I have to wait till I go to work Monday to print it out cause at home all I have is my iPhone. I do listen and take advice well and greatly appreciate the help, time and advice given by others.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, no problem then. You don't need to have that code reader to get the codes. If you have a bulb with wire leads or a LED with wire leads that can handle 12.v then you can just plug that on two those two pins shown on the service manual. When you turn your car to Acc it will blink fast then pause, you have to count the blinks. After each pause then it will blink again and that will show you the next code, that is if you have more than one error. If not it will just repeat. Have a piece of paper and pen ready after you count each blink. Then refer to service manual to see what the code means and it will tell you how to troubleshoot it. i wouldn't drive it around or with all those symptoms you have or might end up being stranded.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You got a dirty battery terminal.

 

A parts store can't read those "codes" and if you want to save yourself some time don't you read them either.

 

Look at the throttlecable where's its bolted at the throttlebody, there's two nuts on there and that tube is adjustable. Loosen the upper nut and turn it back until there's just about 1/4" theads left then move the lower one up. This makes sure there's plenty of slack in the throttle cable. There must be or the tip switch on the end of the idle motor will not be mashed closed. You'll read about that in the service manual.

 

Get a timing light and an analog volt meter NOT A DIGITAL ONE and download that service manual and read every page of SECTION 14 don't skim or say oh I don't care about that READ ALL OF IT and then use that volt meter and check the sensor inputs from the pinouts AT THE ECU not at the sensors, as described in the charts that are on 4 pages in section 14 labeled for use with the ECI checker that you don't have an don't need. There's a picture of the ECU in section 14 that tells what every wire going to it is and a diagram showing the connector plugs and the numbers for each wire (pin out) and there's a wiring diagram of the ECI harness and using that ECI checker chart, use your volt meter on the pin outs and see that the voltages are in the ranges listed and that they are reaching the ECU not just checked out under the hood and might not get back through some crusty bad connection and you think its working and the ECU never knows about it. The ECI checker charts tell you want to do and how to do it and what to do with your ignition key and if the engine is to be cold or warm and if you are to push the gas pedal etc.

 

Now you'll want to order a throttlebody rebuild kit and a set of NGK 7031 spark plugs NO OTHERS or substitutions and then you should send the injectors off to be professionally cleaned. Get new injector clips from the auto parts store. Now, if you do this order those parts and send those injectors out on Monday you can have your throttlebody rebuilt, the new spark plugs in and your injectors all back by next weekend. While you are waiting you can check compression and adjust your rocker arms or clean the lifters if you have those. Bleed your brakes. Change your oil. bla bla bla.

 

 

 

or you can pull your hair out for three months looking for reason why the car runs like crap from those dirty injectors and wrong spark plugs if you just drive it all week then get someone to say buy those generic injector replacements and open up some all new problems from using them. In the end, you'll have to do eveything I said at the top of the page.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Indiana those "codes" I'm referring to are the same one you speaking about and referencing the same pages but you are telling idioticmoney to "save yourself some time don't you read them either". Maybe they are not called "codes" but that is what i meant for idioticmoney to do..We are saying the same thing but i'm just confused that you said for him not to try to read the "codes" but the service manual is telling to do that exactly. Please clarify what you mean...i just want to make sure i understand as well. Maybe I'm explaining it incorrectly. To me we are saying the exact same thing but what i quote you wrote is what's confusing now.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The "codes" tell you where to start your focus on and what items to check. That is what I am saying or are you telling me it doesn't tell you anything? You're telling him now to pay attention to them but the "codes" tell you where to start your focus on repair/trouble shooting. I'm not saying that is the solution but if he focuses to that area the service manual provides then he might find the problem. If that doesn't solve it or he is unsure how to check it then he can ask for more details from members on how to help him.

 

I mean how would you know where start until you get the "codes". When you go to the doctor you don't just tell him your sick, that's obvious. He could be there for hours trying to diagnose you. Then what does he do? He ask you what are your symptoms...sore throat, hot, coughing...etc. Basically he is doing the same thing we are doing and that is pulling "codes"/symptoms the car is having. I mean from experience, from you and other members I'm sure this a no brainier but even the most experience mechanics will tell you to check the "codes" if your car is giving you problems. I mean if you have some old classic muscle car where everything is mechanical and no computer is running the car then this is NA of course. I'm not testing your intelligence Indiana I'm just looking at trying to show him how you find the problem and then showing him how to bring it to us so we can provide constructive solutions.

 

How can we help him if he doesn't troubleshooting correctly. He has to help us by doing the basic troubleshooting and then we can provide him with better solutions. If we get bad info from him then we'll give him bad solutions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone for the help. I'm going to download the manual this week at work and then work on it this weekend cause I have a 4 day. I'll update everyone when I try the steps given. I'll also put up some pics. The ones I have up right now are of the car I was planning on getting.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick update. I was playing with my lights in the car making sure everything worked so I didn't get pulled over for a dumb reason and when I was done I turned everything off and tried to start it again. I heard the same single click, a small hesitation and then boom she starte right up:) I'm guessing an electrical thing. Well thanks for your time and will update again after I check the codes and play with it some bit
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...