apate Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Good Evening All I am have a little trouble with my automatic seat belt sometimes (intermittent problem I HATE intermittent problems) when I open the door the belt starts to move and then it shutter and stop short of full open and the door chime is still going off. When it stops I wiggle the belt at the track and starts moving to full open. It is like it is getting stuck is there an maintenance I can do to the track like lubricating and if so what should I use.Or am I looking in the wrong direction could it be the door switch. I have read enough on the forum to be dangerous very dangerous ha ha. please help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 The best thing to do it set aside a weekend and completely remove both sets of tracks from both sides of the car. The tape needs cleaned and so do all the track tubes it slides in and you have to take the interior all apart to do that then they will fly and hit you in the head or strangle you just like when they were new. If you wait or start to jerk on the mouse, that's what they named that thing the seat belt attaches to, you can cause the tape to skip at the motor drive gear and it try and punch a new set of holes and strip out the holes that are there then it will jam up. Either leave it be or gently try to make it go but spraying in the crack you can does nothing but wash in more dirt and when what you spray in dries up, its worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Recently I took apart and cleaned both of my auto seat belt assemblies as part of troubleshooting some WIERD car wide, MULTIPLE electric circuit problems through many totally unrelated circuits that I had with my Starion. The root causes were not a fusible link or bad or corroded ground issue. See the '88 parts Catalog, Interior Trim Section, page 1TB-40 & FSM, page 23-120 for a exploded views of the auto seat belt assembly. BTW if you have slightly chewed up tape holes you can use a good used passenger side tape as a replacement (even tho they have different part numbers). Just make sure that you orient the replacement tape the same as the original drivers door tape. So memorize how the front and rear ends of the tape are oriented in it's track prior to disassembly. Better yet, take pictures of everything and match mark stuff as you disassemble the track assemblies. During reassembly you will be glad you did. Be VERY careful as you are removing the tracks rail guides/casing that you do not put a permanent bend in them. Remove the tape motor from the assembly prior to removing the track guides/casing. Unless the back seat bolster panels, and the track tape motor assembly cover plate have been removed before, you will need to get a impact screw driver to break loose & remove some of those interior panel attaching screws. Those phillips head screws will strip out if you even look at 'em wrong. I got my impact screw driver at Harbor Freight for about $10. You can get a used passenger side tape from the Parts for sale forum. My driver's side tape holes were chewed up and this is what I did. Also remove and clean the limit switches on the upper tape track guide assembly with electronic parts cleaner. They have been known to get crudded up over time. Looking at what was left of the factory installed grease in the track tapes lower casing - it appeared to be Moly Lube. I did not have any on hand so I lubed the tape & it's tracks up with CV axle joint grease, reassembled the assembly, and the seat belts now fly to the retract and extended positions. Prior to putting the interior panels & head liner trim back on, run the seat belts back and forth many times wiping any excess grease off the tape track rail guides & lower casing. That will keep you from possibly packing the limit switches with the grease/moly lube. You do not have to remove the head liner. Just remove the trim holding it around the door opening and be VERY careful that you don't bend it as you are removing and reattaching the upper tape track attachment fasteners. It should take you 2-3 hours to do both auto seat belt assemblies. For What It's Worth. KEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMNDSTAR87 Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Recently I took apart and cleaned both of my auto seat belt assemblies as part of troubleshooting some WIERD car wide, MULTIPLE electric circuit problems through many totally unrelated circuits that I had with my Starion. The root causes were not a fusible link or bad or corroded ground issue. See the '88 parts Catalog, Interior Trim Section, page 1TB-40 & FSM, page 23-120 for a exploded views of the auto seat belt assembly. BTW if you have slightly chewed up tape holes you can use a good used passenger side tape as a replacement (even tho they have different part numbers). Just make sure that you orient the replacement tape the same as the original drivers door tape. So memorize how the front and rear ends of the tape are oriented in it's track prior to disassembly. Better yet, take pictures of everything and match mark stuff as you disassemble the track assemblies. During reassembly you will be glad you did. Be VERY careful as you are removing the tracks rail guides/casing that you do not put a permanent bend in them. Remove the tape motor from the assembly prior to removing the track guides/casing. Unless the back seat bolster panels, and the track tape motor assembly cover plate have been removed before, you will need to get a impact screw driver to break loose & remove some of those interior panel attaching screws. Those phillips head screws will strip out if you even look at 'em wrong. I got my impact screw driver at Harbor Freight for about $10. You can get a used passenger side tape from the Parts for sale forum. My driver's side tape holes were chewed up and this is what I did. Also remove and clean the limit switches on the upper tape track guide assembly with electronic parts cleaner. They have been known to get crudded up over time. Looking at what was left of the factory installed grease in the track tapes lower casing - it appeared to be Moly Lube. I did not have any on hand so I lubed the tape & it's tracks up with CV axle joint grease, reassembled the assembly, and the seat belts now fly to the retract and extended positions. Prior to putting the interior panels & head liner trim back on, run the seat belts back and forth many times wiping any excess grease off the tape track rail guides & lower casing. That will keep you from possibly packing the limit switches with the grease/moly lube. You do not have to remove the head liner. Just remove the trim holding it around the door opening and be VERY careful that you don't bend it as you are removing and reattaching the upper tape track attachment fasteners. It should take you 2-3 hours to do both auto seat belt assemblies. For What It's Worth. KENx2---just replaced my drivers seat belt assy while interior out for stereo system---clean it then lube it or you will be doing it again and thats no fun----gig out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider 2.6 Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Ken is just too helpful.....and hard to catch, did you already visit/leave Tulsa Ken? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 (edited) Ken is just too helpful.....and hard to catch, did you already visit/leave Tulsa Ken? Thank you for the kind words. No. I have not gone to Tulsa so far this summer cuz: 1) A cousin of mine, who was like my older brother when I was growing up in Chicago, passed away in June. Daughter No. 3 and I drove the Old Broad up to Northern Indiana and back for the funeral. 2) Daughter No. 2 got married in St Augustine, Florida last month. I had to give the bride away. What a family "OLD TIME," 2 week blow out. I just could not economically justify driving to Tulsa, staying there for 2 weeks and then having to drive to FL and back to Atlanta - about 2600 miles total. Especially looking at how HOT it's been this summer in Tulsa - I could not have done a damn thing outside or in daughter No. 1's garage. 3) The Old Broad has had some WIERD, short term, intermittent electrical circuits problems going on over the past 1 1/2 years, that finally decided to stay wierd so that I could trouble shoot them after I got back to Atlanta from FL. It took 3 weeks of research, talking on the phone to many Old Time KNOWLEDGIBLE SQC guys & PQ, trial and error, to finally figure out what the root causes of the problems of all the circuits were :mad: and a couple of days to correct 'em. What a PITA. But I learned a lot more about the Starquest's electrical circuits & wiring during that time. And a real potential existed that the Old Broad would have burnt down to the ground if I had not fixed the problems and continued to drive her. - I'm glad I stayed and fixed them. 4) I have to be in Washington DC for the 9/11 week-end and part of following week, compliments of one of my neices. She is paying my expenses for the trip up there and back to Atlanta. After I drive the Old Broad back, I'm going to Grants wedding which is on the 17th of Sept here in Atlanta. During the week or so after that, I'll be heading to Tulsa. Along the way I'll be stopping, for a day or two, at Fort Campbell, KY to visit one of my nephews who is in the 101st AirBourn and they just got back from Afghanistan. After that, I'll be stopping in Arkansas to visit some very old and dear US Navy submarine friends of mine for a couple of days. Gonna do a lot of fishin' and drinkin' 150 proof Wild Turkey and 'shine. Then it's haulin' butt West to Tulsa via I-40 & the Muskogee Turn Pike.. I do not have to drive the Old Broad back to Atlanta until just before Thanksgiving. Daughter No.1 has many Daddy Does waiting for me. PM me your phone number and we will get together in Tulsa for a mini-meet when I get there. For What It's Worth. KEN Apate - sorry for Hi-Jacking your thread. Edited August 25, 2011 by Starfighterpilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidMoTSI Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 (edited) Also, the motor housings are easy to disassemble and clean. A lot of the crud, (dried grease and plastic), gets caught in the gears. Edited August 26, 2011 by MidMoTSI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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