Dred_85.5_TSI Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 (edited) I'm pulling my hair out over this. I changed injectors last night to proper 850cc ones from 540cc. Here is a list of whats going on (car is a 84 with most of the mods listed in my sig installed) 1) Car runs pig rich like 9.5-10.0 at idle ~850rpm2)Maft seems to not adjust the AFR at all3) car starts and runs with Maf unplugged, with MAFT unplugged. No change in Idle RPM or AFR4)Am voltage seeing signal from the MAFT on the green wire which is hooked up to the White with black stripe signal wire to the ecu 5)Am seeing voltage signal from MAFT to IAT wire Brown to green with red stripe6)Am seeing voltage to pink MAFT wire ~13.5v 7) wiring is as follows:MAFT------------CARPink (+)--------REDBlk (grd)-------BlkGrn (sig)-------Wht/blkBrn (IAT)-------Grn/RGry (Baro)------blk/WhtPrp (AUX)-------XXXXWht (RPM)-------XXXX Please HELP! Thanks Edited May 22, 2011 by Dred_85.5_TSI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 I come up with this for 85.5-86, but yours was a non intercooled model?. There is no baro sensor in the 85 mas so what and why did you hook the maft baro wire to? Some have reported having to lean the maft settings way out or set it for a 3.5 gm (using 3"). Remember you are only adjusting part of the fuel inputs to the ecu. The map sensor seems to play a bigger role than the mas. I come up with.Maft----Car---------------Functionblack---black--------------Groundpink----red----------------Powergreen---white/black stripe-frequencybrown---green-red stripe---air tempgray----no connection------barowhite---no connection------rpmpurple--no connection The wiring to the temp sensor in the over the valve cover pipe should not be messed with in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted May 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 (edited) The Baro one was hooked up that way when I got the car So I have no idea why it's done that way. Oh and the wires from the maft to the car were like barely twisted together and taped so I fixed that but still no go as far as adjustment. Yeah it is an 84, but it's intercooled now. I think I may have a burned out resistor or something on the MAFT as well but I still get signal for IAT and MAF Edited May 22, 2011 by Dred_85.5_TSI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted May 22, 2011 Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 (edited) If i recall, this car did not run right for the previous owner. You may need to did deeper into the wiring and check the map sensor etc. Edit The fsm does not show a black white wire at the airflow meter. Edit #2 i do not have a wiring diagram for an 84. Edited May 22, 2011 by StarquestRescue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted May 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 OH it ran, but it never ran right. I also have a fluctuating ignition timing going on, I need to pull the knock sensor and see if that clears it up. Plugs are gapped at .032, plug and coil wires are all goo Ohm wise like 1,500 on the #4 to about 1,100 on #1 and less on the coil wire, I rebuilt the distributer with a new pickup and cleaned/regreased it. (my vac advance is probably shot because it's even worse with it hooked up) New rotor and cap. I've fixed so much wiring its not even funny. there are still some dead end wires here and there, like one of the wires off the -coil terminal goes to a two prong connection and the other wire (green and black) is just sitting there. I need to check my ECU CTS and make sure it's working. I am also working off the 86 wiring diagram. Thanks for the help so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted May 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 I pulled the Boost sensor/Baro solenoid vac line off the TB and capped it, car started fine, started to pull the electrical plug from the Boost sensor and the car started running leaner so I plugged it back in and shut it down. restarted with everything hooked back up and back to 9.5-9.8AFR Idle again. Maybe we can't have the MAP trying to control the fuel while trying to tune a MAFT? Like how you need to disconnect the O2 sensor signal from the ECu to tune the MAFT, I don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 I don't know if this applies to the original MAFT, but the Gen2 wiring diagram shows the map sensor wire gets tapped into if running a non-stock maf. It doesn't alter the signal, just reads it. Same thing for an intake air sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Well, with the MAP/boost sensor unplugged (electrically) The car is much improved. It is responding to MAFT adjustments!! Right now it will idle ~1000 @10.8-11.0 and I have slowly free revved it to over 3k with no sputtering or breaking up, it stayed under 12.0 on the wideband so I have more than enough fuel now. Preliminary MAFT settings and video will be up soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Heres the video, I will have MAFT settings tomorrow. http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu41/Dred_85-5_tsi/84%20Starion%20ES%20project/th_MOV00898.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted77. Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Are you running the MAF-T II or the MAF-T? You really need to run that RPM wire if it is the 2nd gen. I run the 2nd gen.. I know a lot of guys run the tach wire to the ign. coil neg. wire. So then they get a signal 4 times what the rpm really is. Just run the wire through the speedo cable grommet (if the unit's inside the car) to the white wire on the distributor harness. If not, the spark advance will by default hold the spark advance at 15 degrees all the way through the rpm band. Also, if you look, alot of the tuning characteristics are controlled via rpm and load. You can also set a minimum load and minimum voltage at which the 2nd gen MAF-T does it's thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted May 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 nah, Gen V1.7 according to the board. I need to go through and check out my ISC/MPS and TPS adjustments cause I'm getting slight vac signal to the distributer at idle. I'm getting a new Vac advance and knock sensor and BUR7ea-11 plugs as well. I just need to take the time to go through the TPS/ISC reset exactly by the numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 I was unaware that the Maft could be used on a flatty anyways you need to lean that thing way out. I like 13.5 at idle 900rpms, cruise is around 14.3 to 15.3 and full throttle/ boost is 12.0. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted May 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Heck its better than the idling at 9.6-10.0 and leaning out to 16.0 at 1800rpm like it was with the 540cc injectors and with the MAFT not responding to dial inputs . I'm replacing the knock sensor, vac advance, and plugs (with BUR7EA-11). Then I'm doing a very careful check of the ISC and TPS along with setting them strictly by the numbers and we will see if that straightens out my ignition timing. Once I get to that point I'll worry about leaning out the mixture for better cruising AFR. Thanks for the advice though I always welcome any advice and information Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_starks Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 Hows it going saw the post, I had the same problem trying to get it to work with the maft when i put it on the knobs never did anything when i had it. I messed with everything reset the tps cleaned the injectors (saw you changed them )got a new fpr the car has electrical problems. You did so much to the motor why not just rewire it with hondata and be done? Did you get the stack of papers I gave the other guy marzian it had electrical problems from the get go. when i first got the car it i was in an accident and had money and didnt know what to upgrade. I went out and bought that log manifold a t3/t4 turbo and that maft then in all my reading on this site i found that the 84 computer will not accept the maft cant even upgrade to the second gen eclipse one gotta be 85 or newer. sounds like you know your stuff just rewire it and be done and if you wanna sell it let me know i would love to have it back! sorry for the paragraph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 (edited) I was unaware that the Maft could be used on a flatty anyways I was also. I don't think you can run a Maf-Translator on a 1985. Bill Edited June 22, 2011 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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