JrockTSI Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 So' 2 weeks ago I bought an 89 TSI. Shes got 189,000 miles with all original parts. Untouched except for the AC Control pad. I believe its from an 86 (silver buttons). Besides that, the entire car is bone stock. Original injectors and all. She still runs, I take her out everyday for a spin, but she tends to not get fuel at certain points. Sometimes I'll be driving, then out of no where she'll stop getting fuel. I'll pump the gas and nothing happens, I can floor it and still nothing. I'll wait a few seconds, pump the gas again, then finally she starts getting fuel and I'll throw her back in gear and bring her back home. Can someone please help me with this problem? I had an 88 Starion years ago and had to get rid of it due to certain circumstances. I've always wanted a new one and thats why i bought this one. I love these cars but I'm a virgin at modifying or restoring these beautiful vehicles. What can/should be the first thing I do to get this car running normal? Please, any type of help would be highly appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 two options, change the fuel pump, change the in tank filter, pre-pump filter, and engine bay filter. Change the injectors. I did both options on mine, it had 185k when I did it, the injectors were bad on mine, but my rationale was it deserved the new pump and filters after 23years and 185,000 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 Clean those fuse links behind the battery and the terminals to the injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 Install a Fuel Pressure Gauge to make sure it is a lack of fuel. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JrockTSI Posted May 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 I'm definately taking all 3 of you guys advice. Just to be on the safe side I'm doing everything y'all mentioned. Thanks fellas I'll keep everyone updated. Once again, Thank You. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 Install a Fuel Pressure Gauge to make sure it is a lack of fuel. Billyes, that would be the first thing actually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JrockTSI Posted May 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 yes, that would be the first thing actually.I'll install the gauge first. What range of pressure am I looking for once I install it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 The pump runs or it doesn't run. The filter is clogged or it isn't. Put a jumper on the test port. Listen to the pump. Just let it run and keep listening to it. Now slighly mash the return line as described and the pump should change pitch a little. Keep that running for 10-15 minutes. Now if you want to simulate what it does under boost, you get a hand pump with the gauge on it, they sell for about 20 bucks and you put the hose from it to the fuel pressure regulator. Pump up the pressure to at least 15psi and keep listening to the pump. If its still running then the pump is good. Next thing is change the filters. You can replace or just remove that one in the inlet to the pump. You can get to it from under the tin plate in the hatch under the false floor. The main filter is under the hood on the left side frame rail. DO NOT pull on the lower hose fitting it could start a leak. Hold the filter with a thin wrench and use a socket on the banjo bolt. You can put a gauge on if you like but if the pump runs and the filters aren't clogged it won't tell you anything and there's no easy place to put on a gauge without removing the throttlebody top portion and tapping for an npt thread gauge unless you get an adapter. You still need the hand pump to apply pressure to the regulator to see what the gauge says so its not like you are wasting your timing trying it before you put the gauge on. If the injectors are dirty and they likely are the car won't run right. When the injector clips are crusty the injectors won't always fire and if they are loose sometimes not at all. If the ECI fuse link is dirty, which is the most common problem, the pump won't run after you start it and if the link is loose or crusty sometimes its connection comes and goes. When the injectors spray the wrong amount of fuel in a poor pattern the spark plugs you are using can misfire or foul out. All this needs checked before you spend a dime on a new pump you may not need. You don't remove parts and replace them without knowing if they are good. You will not fix your car that way unless you get lucky and there is no luck in owning one of these cars. While you are testing that pump and not driving the car, I'd order a throttle rebuild kit and send you injectors off to be cleaned and if you do it Monday you'll have the kit and the injectors back by Friday. You can pretend those injectors aren't dirty but they are. You can send them to any place that cleans injectors or maybe you have someone local. www.witchhunter.com is inexpensive. I use Turbo and Diesel Injection Services but they charge $49 each for cleaning and that place only charges 20 bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JrockTSI Posted May 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 The pump runs or it doesn't run. The filter is clogged or it isn't. Put a jumper on the test port. Listen to the pump. Just let it run and keep listening to it. Now slighly mash the return line as described and the pump should change pitch a little. Keep that running for 10-15 minutes. Now if you want to simulate what it does under boost, you get a hand pump with the gauge on it, they sell for about 20 bucks and you put the hose from it to the fuel pressure regulator. Pump up the pressure to at least 15psi and keep listening to the pump. If its still running then the pump is good. Next thing is change the filters. You can replace or just remove that one in the inlet to the pump. You can get to it from under the tin plate in the hatch under the false floor. The main filter is under the hood on the left side frame rail. DO NOT pull on the lower hose fitting it could start a leak. Hold the filter with a thin wrench and use a socket on the banjo bolt. You can put a gauge on if you like but if the pump runs and the filters aren't clogged it won't tell you anything and there's no easy place to put on a gauge without removing the throttlebody top portion and tapping for an npt thread gauge unless you get an adapter. You still need the hand pump to apply pressure to the regulator to see what the gauge says so its not like you are wasting your timing trying it before you put the gauge on. If the injectors are dirty and they likely are the car won't run right. When the injector clips are crusty the injectors won't always fire and if they are loose sometimes not at all. If the ECI fuse link is dirty, which is the most common problem, the pump won't run after you start it and if the link is loose or crusty sometimes its connection comes and goes. When the injectors spray the wrong amount of fuel in a poor pattern the spark plugs you are using can misfire or foul out. All this needs checked before you spend a dime on a new pump you may not need. You don't remove parts and replace them without knowing if they are good. You will not fix your car that way unless you get lucky and there is no luck in owning one of these cars. While you are testing that pump and not driving the car, I'd order a throttle rebuild kit and send you injectors off to be cleaned and if you do it Monday you'll have the kit and the injectors back by Friday. You can pretend those injectors aren't dirty but they are. You can send them to any place that cleans injectors or maybe you have someone local. www.witchhunter.com is inexpensive. I use Turbo and Diesel Injection Services but they charge $49 each for cleaning and that place only charges 20 bucks.Thanks a lot for all your help. I'm soaking this all in like a sponge.The more help I can get the better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 (edited) I'll install the gauge first. What range of pressure am I looking for once I install it? With the Stock Fuel Pressure Regulator: 34 to 36 psi at Idle. Bill Edited May 17, 2011 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 See this link about the Starquest's fuel delivery system. It even has pictures and covers everything about this system. http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1031&sid=4c3c1de046b824985402c61d675bba85 BTW - Make sure that you energize the fuel pump with the proper test connector which is shown on page one of the above link. If you use the wrong one, you may burn up your ignitor or EFI ECU. For What It's Worth. KEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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