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Major Hesitation in Boost


gottraction
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Hello everyone. i didnt want my first post to be nagging everyone with questions but i didnt see a newbie sub forum and when i search for this problem nothing touched exactly what my car is doing. Ok so i just purchased this car thispast weekend. the car has a hacked lower honeycomb stock turbo with a supposedly rebuilt motor. anyway the car runs like crap when in boost. i ordered a boost gauge and its on the way. im a former dsm person so i know how turbo cars work and the work that goes into them. when in boost the gauge would go to around 12 lbs and it would start bucking and holding back. i found out factory boost is 7lbs and its definatly running more than that. actuar runs to the nippl on the pipe that runs to the throttle body.i checked the timing and its 10btdc. car has normal exhaust with just a stainless muffler. i searched and saw it could be leaky injectors,bad plugs,vaccum advance. well i have replaced the plugs with ngks and its still doing it. vaccum advance was ordered today. and im searching for some injectors. A previous owner put in a fuel pump and this thing is loud as hell when its running most of the time. So i dunno if its not flowing correctly or maybe its a walboro. i cannot contact him to find out. could the fuel filter do this. it feels like its trying to fight through a brick wall over 7lbs or so. i know not to keep pushing it. the car is already just pissing me off and im used to 4g63s and rotary engine lol. Wanted another opinion on what to try next. and or what vaccum lines can i strip to narrow down the problem. By the way its a 1987 Conquest 5 spd.

 

Thanks

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sounds like it hitting fuel cut! do you know if it has the stock mass? or a dsm 1g mass? if its the stock mass then its probably fuel cut since the stock will only preform just above 10psi of boost and then cuts out. need to get a boost gauge hooked up. maybe someone will chime in and see if this sounds about right
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its looks like the factory mas air with the lower honeycombs hacked. when i build boost and let of quickly say for a stop light the car losses its normal idle and almost stalls. looking over the car i saw a plug just hanging out around the alternator. i know this car has a knock box by the coil. where is the actual knock sensor going into the block? i wanna make sure this plug is something lef over from the ac and not the knock sensor unplug
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The 1G mass air sensor does not "give a better signal" to the ecu. It has a wider range and will not clip the signal until somewhere above where a stock turbo can even boost.

 

You may have a bad mass air sensor, or you have a vacuum leak, or a ripped accordion tube (the rubber tube between the MAS and turbo). Look for leaks there. You can make a boost leak tester with simple hardware store parts, and connect it to an air compressor fitting. Use low psi, like max of 30 to check for leaks.

 

You may have a bad secondary injector, or the wires and clip going to the injector(s) are bad.

 

It does sound like the wastegate isn't opening, and you are overrunning the stock mass air sensor. The dying at idle can be fixed with a complete TPS/ISC reset, including adjusting the closed-throttle nose switch (don't forget that). Look in the FAQ's for this procedure, and search for the factory service manuals which will show you exactly what to look for under the hood.

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If the honeycomb is gone the MAF is junk.

NGK makes many plugs which one did you get?

Maybe the inlet to your pump is clogged up or the exhaust is.

 

Reply about the plugs and wait until you get a working vac. adv.

 

Stock boost gauge is not accurate they are a guess.

 

Read this, don't skim or say ya I know all that crap, read it.

http://www.b2600turbo.com/ECI%20System.htm

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/boostgauge1.jpg

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the upper honeycomb is still there just the lower piece removed. i think the plugs where bpr6es. the accordian hose had a line capped off with a bolt stuck in it. i tried to make sure to pull it out and reseal it. im going to read the whole tps reset method! also where are the secondary injectors on the car? everytime i look up replacements they only list replacing the upper 2.if anyone wants to chim in to just show me where the knock sensor is that would help as well. thanks for the help so far!
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lol, the bolt in the accordion hose is standard! There are only two injectors, the primary is on the driver-side, the secondary is on the passenger-side. And you can make sure they are hooked up right by simply unplugging the secondary and starting the car. It should idle right and start right and even slowly rev up a bit.
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the upper honeycomb is still there just the lower piece removed. i think the plugs where bpr6es. the accordian hose had a line capped off with a bolt stuck in it. i tried to make sure to pull it out and reseal it. im going to read the whole tps reset method! also where are the secondary injectors on the car? everytime i look up replacements they only list replacing the upper 2.if anyone wants to chim in to just show me where the knock sensor is that would help as well. thanks for the help so far!

Upper? as in a brown zigzag folded piece of cardboard at the top? That piece can go but if that tin foil at the bottom is gone throw that MAF in the trash can and get another. Those plugs are wrong type and too hot unless you have a stock pre87 car that's running perfect. The bolt was I'm guess where the oil separator was connected. Too bad, hope its still there some place. Can't tangle plug wires either.

 

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/plugwiring02.jpg

 

Go to NAPA and order 4 of this spark plug, don't say I have a bla bla bla just say "I want 4 NGK #7031". Some have said you might have to get a pack of ten but I didn't have that issue here. They sell these at most places but not all places. Some may try to sell you a different one or tell you some BS about a part # change which is wrong they just dropped that from their list but NGK hasn't so you may have to try another store. Don't buy some "other" part # they claim will work either.

http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs123.snc1/5289_1027208978663_1778479606_56212_606787_n.jpg

 

Then you can go the normal routine for injector clips, cleaning injectors, dirty TPS, dying ignitor, sticky distributor or bad vac. adv but you have to start with plugs that will fire or you can't get anywhere.

Edited by Indiana
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thanks i will pull the maf out tonight and take a picture and post it here. the injectors do kinda look grimming around the middle part of them right before they meet the top bolting point. Edited by gottraction
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its looks like the factory mas air with the lower honeycombs hacked. when i build boost and let of quickly say for a stop light the car losses its normal idle and almost stalls.

 

ISC/TPS Reset for starters. This info. can be found in the Starquest FAQ Forum.

 

Bill

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You aren't understanding that those spark plugs you put in there are CAUSING THIS. They will only work in a car with its fuel and ignition system operating perfectly and it never goes too rich under boost and these cars always do. Order the ones I showed you.
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going to parts store now to order them.this was doing this before with some old plugs so i doubt that fixes it. another question. one of the previous owners put in another fuel pump. i can get any info on it but is loud as s***. do they run like that in this car or is something wrong? im guessing its a walboro
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It can be if they stuck that cone filter from the stock pump into the too small opening of the new pump and its blocking most of the fuel from flowing and the pump is working too hard.

 

 

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hmm i guess i wouldnt know unless i pulled it. do i have to drop the tank to see? I also checked my injector pig tails and realized that the previouw owner stripped the s*** out of the 2 screws that i need to unscrew to pull the injectors out! Any tricks? oherwise looks like i will have to buy a whole nother throttle body
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there is an access panel in the trunk where you might be able to get to the hose, if you pull the hose and there is a tiny filter in there, throw it away. You might have to manually prime the fuel pump by running a voltage wire to the black wire with a white stripe over by the air can. It's all alone over there.
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so maybe thats causing my whole hesitation problem?!! will get on that today. i mean it sounds like that car is running some big injectors with how loud the pump is. i put on a new mas and 88-89 ecu yesterday and now its running worse. as soon as i hit 1lb of boost it starts hesitating. those ngk plugs are on they way now. i hope this solves it. im already sick of this car.
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alright so i pulled tha little small filter piece out and its not as loud and its actually pulling better. still hesitating in boost and hitting a mini cut but its more drivable. plugs come in tommorrow so i hope tha fixes it. if not the only things left are injecotors an ignition coil and fuel filter
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