jetmech Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 so the other day i was driving my quest around and tried to park in reverse and notice that it would not get in to gear. after forcing( slamming it) decide to turn it off put in reverse and try. was able to run the reverse for the rest of the night but this morning when to see if it woyuld get in reverse while on, and it wouldnt. the tranny keeps spinning after its in neutral not letting the reverse engage and also notice it was rought on shifting the regular gear. I was gonna remove the tranny to rebuild that too but just in case you guys might know a sollution besides removing the tranny i started this thread. so yeah bring in the experience on the subject. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Worn out linkage. Free play is zero and the only play that will be there is just so the linkage can move and it ends up being only a few millimeters-the spec is no more than 5mm. The end of the master rod where it connects to the pedal is where it wears out. You can replace the master or just the end but you'll need to determine if the pedal too is worn and the pin. That worn end, pin and the hole in the pedal ends up lost slave travel so its just like you pushed the pedal down only 1/2-3/4 not all the way to the floor. It also wears out at the upper pivot for the pedal. Its not the transmission. This is not something you can adjust out it must be repaired and replaced. http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/84highlights11.jpg This is trashhttp://www.b2600turbo.com/images/Clutch4.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetmech Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 man this is great info ill try this. like always thanks a lot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 and do you keep up on your trans oil? low fluid will make gears harder to shift in manuals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetmech Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 men I think i found the problem the clutch pedal pin hole is pretty worn out so is the pin itself. been trying to remove it to replace it and is like impossible. is there a trick to it or is pretty much muscle it out. took the top nut and washer out but that bolt barely has room to come out. i havent been able to get that bolt out.i tried removing the spring first but that was a bad experience for my fingers and couldnt manage to take that out neither. Any ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 if you move the pedal in will it have space to come out? did you read the FSM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 I don't think you can take just the pedal out you have to take the bracket that bolts it all to the firewall. The pin, you did take out the cotter pin from the end of it right? Wiggle the pedal, it went in it has to come back out its just loose in there. Make sure you grease the new pin they sell pins at places like Menards and if you have to, drill the pedal and bracket for slightly larger diameter pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 I took mine out. Should be an upper bolt / spring / and linkage clevis. Spring was the only thing that gave me trouble. Took it out to weld up the clevis hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 I'd use a smaller pin with a brass or bronze bushing. kill the bushing, save the pedal..? thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravage Posted April 10, 2011 Report Share Posted April 10, 2011 Does anyone have a favorite pick on a clutch master cylinder and would there be one from another car cross and work on these? Caue I am having a feeling that the parts store wont have one lolI am looking at a exidy which is priced at 52 something on ebay and a rhino one from Mississippi for twenty something. Most of the Cmc are around 20 something bucks on ebay. Is the 50 for the exidy worth it? I know im a lil off topic but needs the help and info and a newbie here. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetmech Posted April 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 update....today i remove the pedal and the linkage bushing. tried looking for a new pedal and a new linkage but no luck. so i had this idea of drilling a slighty bigger hole. made it happen but unfortunately did not cure the symptoms of the tranny. The tranny still grinds on reverse and the tranny doesnt disengages when the clutch pedal is down so the one can put the stick in reverse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 If you removed all the sloppy linkage then you have to get all the air out. Best way is to keep the master filled and just let it drain out the bleeder hole after you refill it two or three times just don't let it get empty it will suck in air again. Put the bleeder back in and when you push the pedal and the master rod moves in than when the rod moves the slave rod must move exactly with it no delay. Delay is air. The slave rod needs to move almost an inch otherwise no you can't shift for crap and it might not go into gear. If you think the air is all out and the rod isn't moving that far then the master and or slave is chewed up and bypassing the fluid and it will never work and needs replaced. Did you get a new master? Those are all worn out inside and bypass fluid by the time the ends are worn out on old stock parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetmech Posted April 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 If you removed all the sloppy linkage then you have to get all the air out. Best way is to keep the master filled and just let it drain out the bleeder hole after you refill it two or three times just don't let it get empty it will suck in air again. Put the bleeder back in and when you push the pedal and the master rod moves in than when the rod moves the slave rod must move exactly with it no delay. Delay is air. The slave rod needs to move almost an inch otherwise no you can't shift for crap and it might not go into gear. If you think the air is all out and the rod isn't moving that far then the master and or slave is chewed up and bypassing the fluid and it will never work and needs replaced. Did you get a new master? Those are all worn out inside and bypass fluid by the time the ends are worn out on old stock parts. pretty much all i did was removing the gold bushing and the pedal. i then drill a slighty bigger hole and got me a pin that will fit snug in the holes so i doesnt have any slack. and then put everything back together. didnt mess with the master cylinder at all just the golden bushing from the picture. that and the pedal were worn out. I took the car for a spin after that seem to work fine. but after the temp went up to normal it started giveing the same problems for the reverse gearthe car would be completely stop i'll try to put it on reverse and i can feel the gear grinding. so you suggest to change the master cylinder. Do you now where can i get this.also would replceing the cylinder will get rid of the horrible grinding noise the engine makes after i release the clutch pedal. cause if not i have a friend thats selling me his tranny. i really dont want to rebuild a tranny too many parts and special tools required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 Its goes back to how far does the slave rod move total after the pedal is pushed. Maybe the noise is the throw out bearing. Maybe the wrong gear oil is in the transmission, or none. One used transmission might not be better than another. They sell those master/slave parts everywhere and the combo is usually cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidL Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 (edited) Found a fix for the sloppy clutch pedal:Seems like the pedal arm hole oblongs first. I drilled it out to round again using a 1/2 inch.I put a Muncie nylon shift linkage bushing in it (tight fit)I reamed out the inside diameter to just fit the original pin.Grease it up, put it in.Was a little tight first few pushes but now is smooth as silk Not sure how long it will last, but we'll see. Also...took a while to figure out how to put the pedal back in.Found the trick (which might be in the FSM - didnt check) was to put the clevis on last (the one we just fixed).So, put the pedal in with the top pivot bolt. Then I used a pair of pliers to get the assist spring on it's perch while the pedal was down. I then put the spring's securing bolt in to hold the spring. Let the clutch back up and reinstall the clevis. The Muncie bushing also has a side washer as part of it's mold that helps tighten up side by side as well. Clevis just fits on without any bending. The bushing was from mid seventy's M21 style GM transmissions that had external linkage shifter and shift rods. The bushings were for the shift rods. Available at any auto parts store. Kinda a pain to do upside down but at least the dash doesn't have to come out So, to confirm some of the earlier posts in this thread...you can remove the pedal without removing the bracket.Also...to the one having trouble removing the clevis pin ("common wear point" pic)...the pin might be worn to the point that there is a slot grooved into it that is holding the pin in. Try moving the clevis around relative to the pedal arm and then push the pin out. You can put a screwdriver under the head of the pin to try to pry it out if really worn. Edited April 23, 2011 by DavidL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetmech Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 update: change the slave and master cylinder.didnt solve the problem. now the clutch pedal has to be completely depressed iam talking all the way to the firewall so i can shift. thinking the tranny is the problem gonna change the fluid to see if that helps. if not thinking it might be the sync rings or the input shaft bearing. dont know watelse to try. to shift to reverse i have to putting halfway into 4 to slow the tranny and then put it in reverse. i guess i can try to bleed it again, what yall think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Lots of air in that system now. First you must bench bleed the new master. You'll have to remove the line, get a helper to press the pedal down and now you cover the hole with your finger and have someone lift the pedal and pull it back up. Have them slowly push the pedal down and don't get squirted in your eye. Keep the hole covered when the pedal is pulled back up otherwise it will suck in air there and not draw in fluid from the reservoir. Do that a few times until you get no bubbles then keep the reservoir full at all times so it won't leak out and get more air in the system. Quickly put the line back on and tighten it back up. Now go down and take the bleeder screw out and leave it out and just keep the reservoir filled and let that drain out so that you refill the reservoir at least two times completely. That will drain out all the fluid with bubbles in it since gravity lets all the air run out the bleeder hole and take any big ones out too. Even if you think you got it bled you didn't and in a few days all those tiny bubbles combine into one bubble and it won't work again but right now you got lots of bubbles in there. If you don't first bench bleed the master it won't do anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Anytime you mess with the hydraulics/mechanicals there's the potential to throw the settings off on things. Change the slave, change the master, the clutch, the bearing, etc...things may move differently. Bleed it until you're CERTAIN the air's out of it. If it still acts up adjust the rod on the back of the master. Loosen the locknut, then spin the shaft out a turn and see how it does. A little goes a long way. My 87 had the same issue right after I swapped the clutch. I bled and tinkered and cussed and nothing worked...until I found that adjustment. Worked like a charm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetmech Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 well tried bleeding everything no luck still grinds reverse. i bench bleed the master and the slave and nothing. my reverse is out have nothing else to try than pulling the tranny out and rebuilding it or just putting a different one one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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