jetmech

It has brand new clutch from competition clutch stage 4

It sure didn't look like it but I'll try the longer slave rod after that I guess I will have to pull the tranny and find out what. is goin on

Also adjusted that little nut on the pedal also out and still feels terrible

Did that. Was not the cause of the problem but I replace the whole master and arm assembly and had my pedal drill a bit bigger for a new home depot pin. I'm so in the dark with this. A friend suggested getting a longer slave rod from 2g eclipse. They sell one for when they upgrade to a high performance ACT clutch so I was thinking of that

Came back from an assignment and I'm still having the same problem as before. Which is that the clutch does not fully engage. Replace the master and slave cylinder and nothing bleeded over and over again and nothing. Gravity bleeded still nothing. So I kind got frustrated and left it in my garag for a couple months. Anyway, I am back so I got on more thing to try that is putting a slightly longer slave rod so it pushes a little further in the fork and the bearing. I haven't done it yet I want some opinions about it. The tranny feels very hard to shift and reverse won't go in unless I kinda put in halfway 4th to slow down the engine and them immediate slam to reverse so it doesn't grind. I don't know this is pissing me off I kind of want to go V8 because of this but I'm holding off I have to much money in that engine completely built for performance. Over size valves over size bore, pistons I kind of forgot the specs because of the time away I spend but well over 3000 dollars in upgrades, parts and machining. Anyho a little advice I'm lost

well tried bleeding everything no luck still grinds reverse. i bench bleed the master and the slave and nothing. my reverse is out have nothing else to try than pulling the tranny out and rebuilding it or just putting a different one one.

update: change the slave and master cylinder.didnt solve the problem. now the clutch pedal has to be completely depressed iam talking all the way to the firewall so i can shift. thinking the tranny is the problem gonna change the fluid to see if that helps. if not thinking it might be the sync rings or the input shaft bearing. dont know watelse to try. to shift to reverse i have to putting halfway into 4 to slow the tranny and then put it in reverse. i guess i can try to bleed it again, what yall think?

pretty much all i did was removing the gold bushing and the pedal. i then drill a slighty bigger hole and got me a pin that will fit snug in the holes so i doesnt have any slack. and then put everything back together. didnt mess with the master cylinder at all just the golden bushing from the picture. that and the pedal were worn out. I took the car for a spin after that seem to work fine. but after the temp went up to normal it started giveing the same problems for the reverse gearthe car would be completely stop i'll try to put it on reverse and i can feel the gear grinding. so you suggest to change the master cylinder. Do you now where can i get this. also would replceing the cylinder will get rid of the horrible grinding noise the engine makes after i release the clutch pedal. cause if not i have a friend thats selling me his tranny. i really dont want to rebuild a tranny too many parts and special tools required.

update.... today i remove the pedal and the linkage bushing. tried looking for a new pedal and a new linkage but no luck. so i had this idea of drilling a slighty bigger hole. made it happen but unfortunately did not cure the symptoms of the tranny. The tranny still grinds on reverse and the tranny doesnt disengages when the clutch pedal is down so the one can put the stick in reverse.

men I think i found the problem the clutch pedal pin hole is pretty worn out so is the pin itself. been trying to remove it to replace it and is like impossible. is there a trick to it or is pretty much muscle it out. took the top nut and washer out but that bolt barely has room to come out. i havent been able to get that bolt out.i tried removing the spring first but that was a bad experience for my fingers and couldnt manage to take that out neither. Any ideas

man this is great info ill try this. like always thanks a lot

so the other day i was driving my quest around and tried to park in reverse and notice that it would not get in to gear. after forcing( slamming it) decide to turn it off put in reverse and try. was able to run the reverse for the rest of the night but this morning when to see if it woyuld get in reverse while on, and it wouldnt. the tranny keeps spinning after its in neutral not letting the reverse engage and also notice it was rought on shifting the regular gear. I was gonna remove the tranny to rebuild that too but just in case you guys might know a sollution besides removing the tranny i started this thread. so yeah bring in the experience on the subject.

has hard is it to change and also any spec i should be aware of before buying a new one

never mind i got it twisted guys confuse it with the pilot bearing ill check into it. damned

to make it clear throw out bearing goes on the fork right. thats brand new. input shaft bearing goes in the flywheel right if so and iam not confusing it that is also new