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Red paint codes


v1xiii
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Does anyone know what the difference in the red paint codes is? I'm wondering if a part from an '87 will match an '88. Will it even be a noticeable difference on a car that needs a paint job in the future anyway?

 

'87 - R04

 

'88 - R04/PR2

 

 

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They are the same paint codes and "should" be the same color. That being said, red is a super hard color to match, and red fades pretty bad over time. Also mixing paint is tricky and some people don't take the care they probably should to mix the color properly, so no two mixings of R04 will be exactly the same.
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Thanks, I plan on getting a new red paint job at some point in the future (once I have a place with a garage) but wanted to replace a mashed fender with a matching part for the time being.

 

 

Oh, that will be hard. Like I said, red fades pretty fast, and the red on SQ's is even worse. Unless you get a fender from a car that spent it's life similarly to your car, and was out in the sun about the same, you will have a difficult time matching. Also, you could have two red cars that lived next door to each other and spent their whole life in the sun, but if one was waxed regularly, and the other wasn't waxed at all, then the colors will be vastly different.

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Am i mistaken in thinking that the syntax for that second paintcode suggests it was clearcoated or possibly midcoated?

 

I was under the belief that all mexican red cars were single stage, but it seems just by looking at the code that it had some other type of coating as well... unless its just the way the OP wrote it here...

Edited by Frenchi934
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Yeah, he could wetsand and polish all the panels that looked chalky and slightly pink, and it would probably come out pretty good. However, if the paint is really pink, or looking white in places, that won't be saved. There's not much paint on these and they are all single stage. I had some spots on the roof that looked like the car got egged at some point and I sanded too much on a spot and broke thru to the primer. I was shocked to see how quickly it broke thru.

 

 

That red car that I brought back tho is a little different story... Like you said, the spoilers were pretty much white when I got the car which is common on these as the plastic parts fade MUCH quicker than the steel parts. My car only has 40k miles and spent most of it's life indoors, but was rarely waxed, if at all. My car wasn't so much faded as it was oxidized. Once I got the oxidization off it cleaned up real fast.

 

 

From this...

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10087/12-06-08_004.jpg

 

 

To this...

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10087/7-22-09_016.jpg

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Well yeah, I don't expect it to match real well. I just figure it would look better than having the corner all mashed up.

 

 

Yeah, it'll deffinately be better than that. If the fender you get ends up being a little duller than the rest of your car, then just use a good cleaner wax on the fender only a couple times to get it closer. If the fender you get is brighter than the rest of the car, then wax the hell out of the car.

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You could always just get a cheap $400 MAACO paint job for now and then do it "right" again later down the road. At least it would all match for a while until you could do it again--unless it came out great and you wanted to keep it that way.

 

I shopped around a while back for cheap paint quotes for my Palermo Starion and started looking at all the cars that came out of MAACO at 3 separate locations. Most had little to no dust in the paint and none had any runs. All had a great shine. There were muscle cars, tuner cars, family cars, you name it...

 

MAACO has changed their marketing and practices--and from what I have seen at 3 different MAACO stores is that their quality has vastly improved over days past. I have only seen one bad paint job from there and that was because the owner (a friend and member of these boards) didn't do any prep work and had them paint over a pretty rough, already repainted car.

 

The $400 job is decent and presentable. You can expect it to last 5 years or longer with proper care.

The $1000-$1200 base/clear is actually pretty nice for the money and should last a lot longer with proper care.

 

My silver car may get the $1200 treatment after some prep work. (Unless I spend all my $$ on mods :) )

 

Just a thought.

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Personally, I'd avoid the Maaco thing. They have been doing better, but having them spray one of their low quality paints on in the mean time, will create more work and money in removing that junk when you go to get it painted for real with good quality stuff.
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