DzNutz Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 So I am looking into actually doing away with the fuse links and the whole ugly mess next to the battery. I am going to be updating it with a power distribution block. Dont know from what donor vehicle yet but am thinking like Saturn or even Windstar. My biggest problem is doing the math to convert from fuse links to fuses. I have all the corresponding sizes and AWG sizes for the links but am trying to figure what fuse to use to replace them. The small is a .3 mm wire on the link which translates to a 22AWG wire with a 5 amp max load. It is protecting a .5 wire (AWG 20) - 7.5 amps. Here is a run down of my math. Brown (.3mm) 22AWG = 5 amp fuse {ECI}Green (.5mm) 20AWG = 10 amp {Headlight, PW, Defrost, pop up}Red (.85mm) 18AWG = 15 amp {Ign, Batt}Black (1.25mm) 16AWG = 20 amp (Supplies link box 1) Does this look right? What gets me is you have 5mm (10AWG - 55amp) feeding through a red .85mm (18AWG - 15amp) link to a 3mm (12AWG - 40amp) So is it right that a 15 amper is protecting a 40 amp circuit? I guess what I want to know is should I use a fuse that is comparable to the link capacity, or should I use a fuse that will protect the circuit capacity? I come to this because there is a 1.25mm ((16AWG - 20amp) link between the battery and altenator. The wire itself is 8mm (8AWG - 75 amp). Now a 75 amp fuse in the charging circuit seems a little more viable to me than a 20 amp. PS. I am aware links are slow blow and fuses are fast blow. I am thinking this is why a 20 amp link would work on a 75 amp circuit? Wiring fire trucks isn't as hard as Mitsu crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 When I did mine I didn't get all that carried away with the math. I took the lower rated ones and started off with a 5amp fuse. If it blew on the first drive, then it got a 10. As I recall I ended up with one 10a, 2 20a, and one 30a in my fuse box. Started off with one 5a and 3 20a, but had to up the 5a, and one of the 20a. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Based on what size wire is on either side of the fusible link you can gauge the max amperage the wire can handle. Here's my advice 18 gauge wire = 5-8 amps16 gauge wire = 10-12 amps14 gauge wire = 15-17 amps12 gauge wire = 20-25 amps10 gauge wire = 30-40 amps8 gauge wire = 50-60 amps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 http://www.japanautoteile.de/parts/files/pics/123684.jpg Galant 90's fuse block, nice and compact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zactek Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 I've been running a Rockford-Fosgate block for about 5 years now without any issues, used a 4gauge wire running from the battery into the block itself. All the blade fuses are 20A, with one being 30A, I can take a look to make sure which is which.. http://img460.imageshack.us/img460/690/1000073tr6.jpg Zack K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 i dont understand whats wrong with fusible links Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DzNutz Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 i dont understand whats wrong with fusible links Nothing wrong with fusible links. I am just looking to make it look cleaner and updated a bit. That and fuses are cheaper and easier to obtain then links. NOT that I'm blowing links, mind you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DzNutz Posted January 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 Found a nice compact one with more than enough circuits to replace all the relays and everything ny the battery. http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/DzG54BNutz/RMSQ/Distribution%20Box/S4021310.jpghttp://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/DzG54BNutz/RMSQ/Distribution%20Box/S4021309.jpghttp://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/DzG54BNutz/RMSQ/Distribution%20Box/S4021311.jpg Advantage with this block is there are additional circuits I can use for stereo amps and other "upgrades" in the future as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MainstreaM Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 Long ago there was a writeup on one of the sites about replacing it all with the fuse block from an 86-91 FC3S RX7. Trilogy turbos used to offer a plug and play version of this as well. Kane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emann420 Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 Fuses are not Fusable Links. I'm sure they are rated totally different. The fuses should blow fast and the fusable link should limit current flow up until a failure occurs(right before the fire). I know I'm not helping and my intentions are not to be an @$$, just don't want you to be stranded.E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 there is a writeup on one of the other sites, on something similar. it may be on b2600.com or 26liter.com can't remember exactly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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