polarisman14 Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 Hey all, I've examined this question with a fellow member (VICE) and I'm hoping you guys can help me out. I would rather not have to go through the effort of pulling the oil pan and having someone weld a return bung on to that so I am looking for an alternative. Because the treadstone manifold is a side mount versus the OEM top mount piece it puts the oil drain for the turbo below the factory drainback on the bottom of the head. I found a plug in the block at roughly the same height as the engine mount but off to the left of that a few inches. If I have to take a picture of it to show you guys what I'm talking about I can do that. Anyway I am not too familiar with the inner workings of these motors so I can't really picture where that plug is in relation to the rotating assembly. It looks like it may be the windage tray and if so I'm fine with that. If anyone could let me know exactly what plug that is and the thread count (hopefully it's NPT...) that'd be a HUGE help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotStock88 Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 IMO - Man up and buy a used oil pan, have it modded then installed. Will be much easier than trying to fiddle with rigging something up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87starion_in_ma Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 IMO - Man up and buy a used oil pan, have it modded then installed. Will be much easier than trying to fiddle with rigging something up. i have one of these manifold and i thought it wasn't that hard. you can pick up a bung for like five dollars. i belieave that there are some bung that you don't need to weld if you don't have access to a welder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted August 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 The other thing is that the oil pan looks kinda shallow on these so I want to make sure where I am draining to won't back up. Where it's a ball bearing turbo this is crucial. Anyone have any idea what that thing is? It may be a TDC plug but I'm used to those on cylinder 1 and this appears to be on 2 or perhaps between them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 That's the plug in the water jacket, its to drain the block of coolant. They make AN "bulkhead" connectors that's what you need. All you do is make a hole. All different sizes its just a fitting you put in and use crush washers and a nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted August 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 ^^Thank you. That would have been a real mess if I drained the oil into the coolant, lol... Thanks for the advice on the bulkhead fitting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Put the nut on the outside so you can make sure it is tight and you can see it and the fitting you use on the hose or tube will also prevent it from coming off if it comes loose. This is so it can't come loose and fall off inside the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted August 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Any special place I should tap into on the pan (other than as high as possible)? Thanks again for the tips. And is there a gasket for the pan or should I just use copper RTV or something to seal it back up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 I would put it below the baffle or about one third of the way down in the front side of the pan. DSMs put the oil drain UNDER the oil level. Having the oil drain under the oil level will at most times not let the drain as much be effected by crankcase pressures. If its above the oil level it will always be effected by crankcase pressures. There isn't going to be any resistance or lack of flow from it being under the oil level. The oil entering the turbo has no air in it, if it seems to come out with air in it you have a problem. The quicker the oil gets back to the sump the better but this oil is hotter than other engine oil so if its mixed in with the other oil above the pickup then imo that's the better way to do it. The bypass valve in the filter adapter will control flow to the cooler but it can't change instantly based on oil temps it like other sensors over time uses the average temp. of what is flowing past for its reading and its reaction to move like the valve in the filter adapter I'm talking about or your coolant thermostat. The sensors are under metal shrouds and their resistance changes based on the temp. of the metal and its take time to change the temp. of that metal and for it to be absorbed to the core so brief quick changes in temperature are not seen in them either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted August 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Sweet. One more two-part question--What is the pan made of and what is its thickness? I'm hoping it's thick steel but I just need to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Its not sheet metal but its not what I'd call thick but it is steel and its pretty good quality metal if you ask me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Excellent. If I'm gonna remove the pan I am going to buy a stainless fitting and have a friend of mine weld it in anyway. Good deal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 I put mine above the horizontal baffle inside the pan, near the front. If you have crankcase pressurization, that is a problem you need to remedy with a big breather setup. Anyway, I haven't had any problems with oiling on either of my big turbos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 it doesn't need to be stainless or even a fitting, you can cut the end off your old 12a drain tube that pointed forward and weld it on or just weld it on as is and then use whatever new tube is on your turbo now. http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM001947.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted September 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 ^^That is a good idea and I should have done that but I had a 14g and the turbo is long gone. I've got a fitting on its way from summit that will weld right in though. On a side note, should I weld the 2pc dipstick holder together? Mine decided it wanted to come apart and the previous owner just RTV'd it together anyway. Additionally, what are the torque specs for the oil pan and is there a gasket or is copper RTV okay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted September 2, 2010 Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 The vent tube broke loose from the tube is that what you mean? It really needs to vent tube but it gets clogged and when you check the oil you should pull the stick out and let the oil in the tube and the pan equalize then check it because the oil levels goes up and down in the tube all the time. The pan should have a gasket, flip it over on a flat table and make sure the lip all around is level and not bent, if it is get a hammer and make it flat again or it will leak. Torque spec is very low like 7ftlbs. Carquest may, they used to, sell a reuseable silicone impregnated pan gasket for this motor it was stiff as a board and almost 20.00 but its a real nice gasket. still needs sealant though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted September 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 ^^Thanks. Basically with the dipstick tube the part that is integrated into the oil pan broke off from the tube that the dipstick itself clicks into. Not sure if it's supposed to be 1pc or how it even goes together, but it is just RTV'd or something right now and I'm wondering if it should be modified at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted September 2, 2010 Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 It's two pieces. The oil pan part, then the dip stick tube that sits in there. There is an o-ring that goes in there to help seal it up. You don't need RTV there, please remove it. Haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted September 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 My guess is that the RTV is there because the tube came off and became misshapen or something at one point or another. I'll take a closer look when I get the pan off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted September 2, 2010 Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 Oh, well I put a new oring on and sealant. This is a possible place for crankcase pressure to leak the vacuum off and this is a sloppy connection at best even with a new oring. Two old steel tubes poked together, might not be very round any longer and have pits from rust. I just put a bit of sealant around there to be sure. The upper tube just bolts to the intake and if that tab is bent or even road dirt getting in that flared part of the lower tube this eventually will cause that to leak pressure. When I say pressure I'm meaning leaking off the negative pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted September 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 ^^So if it's misshapen and stuff should it be welded together? I am running MPI anyway so I have no place to bolt the top to in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted September 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 So, I've got the oil pan off finally and the drain ready to be TIG'd in there. Since I can see the piston skirts and whatnot I'm looking for an answer to this: Do the stock pistons have a crosshatch-type pattern stamped into the bottom of them? That's what I would think to be a good identifier. The connecting rods look to be some type of I-shaped piece but I can't tell if they are stock are not...They look cast so I would think they're stock. Who knows. I really hate people who lie about stuff when they sell it, they should all die in a fire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 Make sure you line up the drain tube, it can't point to the oil pressure sending unit or later you'll wish it was aimed a little better. These are OEM is that what you mean?http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM003243.JPGhttp://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM003260.JPG http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM000174.JPGhttp://www.b2600turbo.com/images/IM000178.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted September 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 Gay. Looks like he lied about that too. Oh well, time to see what stock pistons and connecting rods can handle! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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