help?

[asap]

ok so i picked up this car that supposedly had a blown headgasket.... it wasnt a blown headgasket but alot more... the car runs now after replacing alot of things the list includes.

1.. new stock replacement delphi injectors

2. new bosch injector clips

3.new plugs,wires,cap,button

4.new bosch o2 sensor

5.new super stack coil

6.oem mitsu exaust manifold gasket

 

so the car dudnt want to idle right i played with the fast idle screw got it to half way idle... i tried to drive the car, and it backfired loudly and when i got off the expressway and popped the hood the exaust manifold/turbo was glowing fire red... i shut the car off and let it cool down. after a bit i put a timing light on it i had to check it out.. at 1200 rpms i got it as close to 10 BTDC as i could. after about 2 hours i babied the car home. later i took it to a exaust shop thinking that the pre cat could be clogged but both cats have already been gutted so thats not the problem. i reset the timing with mr jimmy's help over the phone so no doubt that its right... today while playing with it i took the maf plug off and it idled fine.. it was still choppy through the rpms when u try to rev it but it did idle... so im thinking a problem with the MAF. the thing of it is, i have 3 1g 7 prong MAFS but i dont have the pigtail to wire them in i will bne using my factory starion plug... i noticed the sixe difference and i was going to cut the plastic gaurd off the 1g to be able to plug my starion clip in.. would this work? and does this sound like a maf problem? i pulled the #1 plug to check for leaness but it was nothing out the ordinary.. just slightly white on the electrode. someone please help because no one around me knows about these cars, and i am at wits end. thanks

[asap]

anyone??

[dstar88]

to answer you question about the 1g MAS. yes, cut the 1g plug part off and get rid of the 7th lonely pin as well. then just replace the old MAS with the 1g.

 

 

i would suggest doing a tps/isc reset to get your iddle correct first. try to get it around 800 rpm where it should be, then double check the timing after that. once you've done that, clear the codes, make sure there are none flashing. then take it for a spin and see if it still backfires..if it does, then try changing the MAS and see if it makes a difference. You gota try and get that iddle down and where it should be first though. messing with the iddle screw will only throw the TPS off some more and cause it to hunt even more.

 

 

 

 

Daniel

[asap]

what about the high alt/engine running temp plug? can i use that to help me even though im no where near high altitude?

[asap]

also what aboutt gat other plug that goes on the factory lid? its whit i believe?

[dstar88]

that most likely will no do anything for ya.

 

 

link to checking error codes

 

 

link to thetps/isc reset procedure

 

 

 

do those and it should, iddle better and where it should.

 

 

 

 

Daniel

[JAinsworth]

Chris,

PM your vin to me.

Jimmy

[asap]

im emailing it to u from my phone jimmy my comp is acting stupid.

[alp247]

welp you touched the idle screw...so your screwed...lol. Yeah so i second what Daniel said and you need to do the ISC/TPS procedure now. Exhaust manifold red....well a few things. One you have leaky injectors...but you said you changed it. Two you have clogged cats...well you checked that. Third you could be running lean. Even if you have timing right and the TPS/ISC is wrong your car run like crap when you try to stomp on it. If you touched that screw then you need to redo the ISC/TPS because now it's off...even if you think you put it back...just do it over.

[strang3majik]

does it glow red after just driving it normally? Or only after running it kinda hard? Because it will glow.

 

But, yeah, its either running lean or running very rich. And, since you're saying you're at high altitude, I'd venture to say its not running lean.

 

Oh...and check your coolant temperature sensor. (the one for the computer, not the gauge)

Edited April 22, 2010 by strang3majik

[asap]

welp you touched the idle screw...so your screwed...lol. Yeah so i second what Daniel said and you need to do the ISC/TPS procedure now. Exhaust manifold red....well a few things. One you have leaky injectors...but you said you changed it. Two you have clogged cats...well you checked that. Third you could be running lean. Even if you have timing right and the TPS/ISC is wrong your car run like crap when you try to stomp on it. If you touched that screw then you need to redo the ISC/TPS because now it's off...even if you think you put it back...just do it over.

im going to reset it tomorrow. also which sensor is the coolant sensor for the comp not the gauge?

[lew39]

its the one with the 2 prong connector going into the intake manifold.

[Tman]

you say the cats r gutted could it be there not gutted but the broke up and are glogging the muffler or stuck in the pipe somewere

[Shelby]

a very slow or non operateing mechanical advance can cause this,, esp if it is in the advance'd position and you adjust'd the ign timeing to 10 btdc,,

when this happens you have NO more advance and the exh runs hot and performance sucks,, remove the dist cap and twist the rotor,,it MUST spring back on it's own,, if not the plate needs clean'd and oil'd

 

and do your self a favor and down load the factory service manual from this site starquestgarage.com

then make it your most favorite book ever

[dstar88]

a very slow or non operateing mechanical advance can cause this,, esp if it is in the advance'd position and you adjust'd the ign timeing to 10 btdc,,

when this happens you have NO more advance and the exh runs hot and performance sucks,, remove the dist cap and twist the rotor,,it MUST spring back on it's own,, if not the plate needs clean'd and oil'd

 

 

ahhahaha!, i just came back on the tell him to check out the dizzy and vacuum pod too lol. you beat me to it.

 

 

 

 

 

Daniel

[Indiana]

If you set the base timing with the rpms at 1200 then its wrong, the rpms are borderline ready for the adv. weights to change timing and to be at that high of rpm then either you have a big vacuum leak or the throttle isn't closed so that is also causing the vac. adv. to increase timing. What Shelby said, if you set it like this then you have not much more to go. You won't have as much vacuum advance left but you'll still have your mechanical advance left. It would be more like setting it about 15-18btdc for a normal running car. You seem to be able to drive it but you have this red manifold part. Of these things you replaced did that make the car run alright? Other than the glowing manifold what else is happening?

 

1.. new stock replacement delphi injectors

2. new bosch injector clips

3.new plugs,wires,cap,button

4.new bosch o2 sensor

5.new super stack coil

6.oem mitsu exaust manifold gasket

 

Did you look at the valve train? Did you do a compression check? What spark plugs are in this motor? Does the turbo work? Did you spin the turbo with your finger? Does it make boost and what level is it at? Does the turbo make any noise?

[asap]

If you set the base timing with the rpms at 1200 then its wrong, the rpms are borderline ready for the adv. weights to change timing and to be at that high of rpm then either you have a big vacuum leak or the throttle isn't closed so that is also causing the vac. adv. to increase timing. What Shelby said, if you set it like this then you have not much more to go. You won't have as much vacuum advance left but you'll still have your mechanical advance left. It would be more like setting it about 15-18btdc for a normal running car. You seem to be able to drive it but you have this red manifold part. Of these things you replaced did that make the car run alright? Other than the glowing manifold what else is happening?

 

1.. new stock replacement delphi injectors

2. new bosch injector clips

3.new plugs,wires,cap,button

4.new bosch o2 sensor

5.new super stack coil

6.oem mitsu exaust manifold gasket

 

Did you look at the valve train? Did you do a compression check? What spark plugs are in this motor? Does the turbo work? Did you spin the turbo with your finger? Does it make boost and what level is it at? Does the turbo make any noise?

turbo doesnt make any noise, no shaft play other than normal valve train does not tick and compression numbers checked out. aside from the manifold glowing the car is running fine... starts up fine everytime and it will idle now, it just idles at 1200 rpms. and this is under normal driving shifting at about 3-3500 rpms. i played with the vacuum advance and it springs back on its own.

[asap]

also the exaust from the rear while the car is running is pushing plenty of air out, but i did think about busting the exaust loose from under the pre cat and let it run to see if there is any change.

[Indiana]

Put the timing light on it after its warmed up and unplug the reference hose to the vacuum advanace and see if the timing changes. Put the hose back on just open the throttle and see if timing jumps up immediately, it should if the vac. adv. is working.

 

This have jet valves? If it does, it that mech. or hydraulic valve train? If hydraulic and jet valves, jet valves must be adj. after the engine is ran and the lifters set up. If you have them and no you have noisy lifters that means the jet valves may not be seating and this is why they can end up letting in some air that isn't metered as one cylinder opens and sucks in the air there is additional air from another cylinder being added to that and its not supposed to be some one or more cylinders ends up leaning out and then someone blames jet valves when its their adjustment that was incorrect and lifters that aren't working properly.

 

You have an air/fuel gauge?

 

You have a way to get a fuel pressure gauge on it?

 

If your ignition timing is too far advanced too quickly that can make the engine run hot, so can too little fuel from a dirty injector or from a fuel pump not providing enough pressure.

 

Any of that help?

[asap]

Put the timing light on it after its warmed up and unplug the reference hose to the vacuum advanace and see if the timing changes. Put the hose back on just open the throttle and see if timing jumps up immediately, it should if the vac. adv. is working.

 

This have jet valves? If it does, it that mech. or hydraulic valve train? If hydraulic and jet valves, jet valves must be adj. after the engine is ran and the lifters set up. If you have them and no you have noisy lifters that means the jet valves may not be seating and this is why they can end up letting in some air that isn't metered as one cylinder opens and sucks in the air there is additional air from another cylinder being added to that and its not supposed to be some one or more cylinders ends up leaning out and then someone blames jet valves when its their adjustment that was incorrect and lifters that aren't working properly.

 

You have an air/fuel gauge?

 

You have a way to get a fuel pressure gauge on it?

 

If your ignition timing is too far advanced too quickly that can make the engine run hot, so can too little fuel from a dirty injector or from a fuel pump not providing enough pressure.

 

Any of that help?

car has hyro lifters and jet valves still.i dont own a fuel pressure gauge and it does not have a AFR gauge on it. i dont think that the injectors could be dirty since they are new.. but i will double check the crimps on them from where i put the new bosch clips on it. i will try to undo the vac advance and give it some gas and see what it does.

[asap]

ok so my MAF pigtail was bad when i bought the car, the red wire was pulling out the plug... i had a friend solder it for me... i was just letting the car warm up to do the tps reset but i looked at the LED and it gave me a 1, then 3.... im wondering if because of that plug is that was its throwing a MAF code becuase i have 3 diff 1g MAFS and my factory starion maf but the only other pigtail i have is a N/A 1g dsm.. can i use it the same way as i was using my factory starion plug? as long as i wire the colors together in the FAQ? just curios cause its hard to believe all MAF'S could be bad. and that will make the car run lean/rich.... just getting some opinions....

[asap]

could me not resetting the tps make the car throw a MAF code?

[asap]

also i just pulled the vaccuum off the dizzy while the car is at roughly 18BTDC at 1200 rpms.. the car nearly shut off it was probley at 200 rpms

[asap]

which CLIP IS THE ISC SERVO CONNECTOR? IM TRYING TO RESET THE TPS AND ALL....

[Shelby]

also i just pulled the vaccuum off the dizzy while the car is at roughly 18BTDC at 1200 rpms.. the car nearly shut off it was probley at 200 rpms

 

 

basic tune up adjustments have to be made before any tps, idle, mps etc adjustments can be made,,for now leave the hose off the vac adv and readjust the timeing,, after testing the mechanical adv system for being free

 

as to the dsm aand quest air mass wireing,, they use an entirely diff color assignment for the air mass,,you can no go by connector wire colors,, how ever their location and funtion are the same on dsm turbo mass's pin #7 is not use'd ,bend it over out of the way

Edited April 23, 2010 by Shelby