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HID Install Completed


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EDIT: I've tried to reload pics and I don't know why they are not working. I'll try again later.

In the mean time, maybe this will work Album

So you want HIDs? Here's how..


This powers the HIDs without putting a strain on the 20 year old factory wiring.

This is for HID Low beam and Halogen high beam, but a dual HID set may be similar, posibly addind another relay.

This set up will light the Low beams solo (Low beam on), or run High and Low beam at the same time (High beam on)

You need

1-Set of HID ballasts and bulbs

1- Set of H4 style housings (glass perfered)

1- 40 amp relay

1- 30 amp fuse holder

2- 15 amp fuse holders

And- about 10 ft of 12 gauge wire and various crimp conectors and a soldering iron (optional but recommended)

I purchased the HID kit from a seller on eBay.


Follow this diagram




Here is the diagram shown in real parts.

The 30A fuse holder gets extended and attached to the + side of the battery.

Each of the 15A fuse holders get extended and attached to the positive power wire of each ballast.

The Green wire ties into the Green wire from the stock headlight connector. This is what makes the 40A relay function. When you turn the headlights on, the relay sees power and closes the circut and powering the balasts.

The small brown wire is the ground for the relay, which attaches to the body.




In the picture below you can see the relay all tied in. The red wire with yellow collar is the power from the battery. The other red wire powers the ballast, the black wire with the blue crimp connector is the ballast ground, and the brown wire is the relay ground.

Not shown in this picture is where I split the power off for the passenger's side. The power for both head lights comes off of the same prong of the relay, so just "Y" the two power leads together.




Here is how I got the signal form the stock connector to the relay. The kit you buy may be different than mine, so don't get confused by the changing wire colors and how I connected mine. Just follow the diagram and it will be fine. The green wire from the relay connectes to the right side of the connector with the black wires. The right side of the connector is the Green (+) wire from the factory wiring harness




Mount your ballast where ever they are out of the way and somewhat safe from heat and water. This picture shows where I chose to mount the passenger side ballast. You can also see where I mounted the ground for this ballast and the 15A fuse for this ballast.



Finished product. This all depends on housings and how you adjust them. I've driven the car at night a bit now and have not been flashed or honked at by other drivers, so the light must not be too offensive to them. There is an obvious cut off for the majority of light output and I have adjusted that cut off with other drivers in mind.




Edited by nomad
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which kit was it that you got off of ebay?





This is the kit from 101propose's ebay store.

One thing that I did not memtion is that the glass housings were a little bigger than the stock houising. I was only able to get 3 of the 4 mounting screws attached. With just 3 screws they feel solid and do not shake. If anything changes I will post it up.

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nice right-up, but I would suggest actual projectors over the glass housings with HIDs, thats a lot of glare

D_Ven, you opinion is valuable to me. You are correct that projector retrofit will be better. But the wiring information will be the same for low beam applications. I think that if one wanted to do a Bi-xenon projector, the only change would be grounding the second ballast for high beam to the R side of the connector, instead of the chassis.

This just shows what is available "off the shelf", and I think that 101 is the only one offering a complete package with 6054 (6x8) housings on ebay at this time. This set-up of HIDs in non projector housings may be looked down upon by lighting connoisseurs, but it is a common sight on the streets. I travel all over the US and am not just talking about my locale.

There are many routes to take with the housings, this is the simplest one.

The other routes include retrofiting OEM TSX (or similar) projectors into a homemade housing or modifying housings similar to these to hold the OEM projector. And of course there are those who want to get rid of the pop up lights and have fixed position lights. These routes require more patience/ time than most people care to dedicate lighting and most end in failure. I have yet to see anyone post up a completed retrofit system that they have on the road in a SQ.

Given my example and a similar kit, anyone that can use a wire crimper can greatly improve their light output in about two hours.

If this write up gives anyone the courage to take the plung and go this route, I hope you will post up your experience.

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