Zone

Correction, 85.5 was the cut off for the B Pillar. At 86 on they were all the late model along with the addition of Spoiler and 3rd brake light which was required by DOT.

I need one set!!

Lol ?? Did you say the CPU is under the dvd drive ? I don't know if you know what your talking about now... GPU is under the dvd drive and the CPU is the chip to the right. Have you even modded a console ? Hacked the dvd drive ? Ive been modded/ fixing Xbox's since the first GEN. What give you more experience then me ? Lead free solder has a lower electrical resistance than lead based solder because the resistance of lead is about double that of tin.... but More importantly the difference of thermal conductivity and the lower melting point of lead based solder is more important in making a good solder joint. Lead-free solder is brittle and cracks under higher heat!! Turning the fans up would have extended the life of the console, the fans would have lasted longer then the problem stricken consoles. ive always ran 12v to the fans.....and some 360's ive fixed had no voltage getting to the fans AT ALL because the mofest's responsible for controlling fan speeds fail. The quality of the solder, parts, and design caused its doom. Fact.

Microsoft screwed up on designing the cooling system. So many fail because the CPU and GPU die's get super hot causing the solder underneath to warm up, flex then crack. Because the EPA don't allow lead products in consumer electronics the only way to fix the problem is make hardware revisions, although if they had just make a software update to make the fans work faster all the time the temp would never never hit critical. If your console has the red ring and is old its probably toast. Only way to fix it and fix it right is to have the BGA chips removed, have all the solder removed, and have lead solder put in. Also Price wise a PC will always be more expensive but will last. A compact piece of hardware like laptops, ps3, xbox360 are all devices that will fail if proper cooling is not addressed.

Do you still have the head ?

Injector in the wrong way ? or the clips to them ? I rebuilt a motor for a friend once, the new injector pig tails in the car were made the same length and when i put the car together i had primary firing the secondary and secondary firing primary. His car ran.... when it really tbh should have flooded alot.. but he boosted the s*** out of it and wondered why his gas mileage was s***. Turns out, after removing the primary pigtail the car stayed running... so i knew something was fishy! Swapped them and fixed. Not sure if this is related to you, maybe you just changed injectors recently.

It took me like 10 mins, and my car feels soo much better.

I did it to my 85.5 Dropped a 87 control harness in and spliced in. Altho im going to get a MSD 6AL soon.. Stock ignition is a little weak i think.

Delete your messages so I can PM you.

Not to ruin the sale thread, what kinda of regulator do you have coming off the rail ?

I never used any tools provided with a drive, i use windows to format/install and finish. Also from my experience WD are the ones that suck and Seagate and Samsung is the best to go with. Back in the day of the 1st Xbox, Microsoft used off the shelf 7gb WD drives. Everyone i encountered throwing a error had a WD, the drive would seek, seek, seek. However i have a 1tb WD external i bought about 2 years ago, its been working but its showing its signs of problems. My 2 main drives ive had for over 4 years 2x500gb Seagates in RAID 0. Never had any failures. Most of the time when hard drives don't work it's when the product has been dropped/banged around before getting on the shelf.

Im in need of s16 or higher tdo5/06 turbo. Pm me. Tell me what u got. No more then $300

I guess i should put a rack steering in also

Ive had no idea its been down for this long.... i need to order $400 worth of parts.