Fried an alternator.. why??
Posted 01 November 2010 - 12:14 PM
Posted 01 November 2010 - 06:43 PM
Posted 03 November 2010 - 12:11 PM
Posted 03 November 2010 - 10:27 PM
Ol' homeboy ProfessorQuest has a somewhat decent how to of this if you don't mind his 'tude and occasional redundancies.
Prof's Alt wiring
Edited by mstieg, 03 November 2010 - 10:28 PM.
Now Done: 7.5:1 .35 Wiseco rebuild w/ crank scraper; 274 Magna roller cam & 1.55 rockers; mod port AMC head; 1mm>valves; Innovate WB; GM alt/rewired; 3" alum radiator; BMW X5 oil separator exh. crankcase vent; gas tank renewed; D2s; sway/strut bars; LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap; 4.22 rear; 265 Kumos on SHP rears; new steering pump/box/lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558
In Progress: full dash/console rewire - Autometer gauges etc; retune; 38mm Tial WG reroute
Future: Enjoy driving again; meets; local shows; AC; (paint)
FOR SALE: Rear Camber plates (basic); NIB beefy U-joints(2); etc.see--> http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 also Autometer gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0
Posted 14 November 2010 - 07:42 PM
Posted 19 November 2010 - 02:13 AM
If your old alternator was the OEM one, then I hope you didn't trade it in. A good rule to follow is to never put a store bought reman on one of these cars. What you get is very substandard parts inside compared to OEM, and a unit that won't last very long. Even a lifetime warranty isn't worth it when you keep changing junk.
You should always take your OEM alternator to a rebuilder who can rebuild with superior parts inside. You might pay a little more for less of a warranty, but you won't need one and you get a professionally rebuilt and assembled unit with better parts. The store bought units are usually slapped together by a $5 per hour or less foreign factory worker who has no clue about workmanship, how to identify problem parts, etc.. If they run out of heatsink compound, they assemble it anyway, and other similar things that we find all the time only in storebought units.
'87 TSI Gold that needs just about all steering and suspension parts replaced.
'86 ESiR - OEM Roller Cam, Wiseco Forged 8:1 Pistons, Chad's equal length header, TEP T3/T4 turbo, ACT HD clutch, Fidanza Fly, custom 3" exhaust, 3 core oversized radiator, O-ringed block, AJUSA metal shim head gasket, Dawes Device boost controller
'85 Plymouth Conquest Auto , Wiseco 8:1, super light pins, shaved rods, hi-torque cam, 2.5 Exhaust
'84 Dodge Conquest Parts car
'83 Starion - Gutted stock exhaust with '87 TSi muffler, New engine with: BS Elim,forged Wisecos,balanced,Schneider274H,marnal w/oversized stainless valves
'83 Cannonball Run II Jackie Chan car, Basic ring and bearing job w/less than 6K original miles on body, steering, suspension, & rear end, Lightened stock fly, BS Elim, Walbro 255LPH FP, NEW Clearwater head with all new parts, intercooled, 14G turbo, 2750 car weight
'96 Mitsu Mirage w/rebuilt head. Gets 35+MPG.
'87 Dodge Ram50 4WD Needs bottom end only basic ring and bearing rebuild. Everything else works.
'97 Buick Ultra (supercharged Park Avenue)
Posted 19 November 2010 - 09:15 AM
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