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ecu question


choosenfeww
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Can somebody help out. I'm not getting no power to the fuel pump unless if I run it direct I'm not getting no power to the distributor n everything on it n that goes to it is new all the way. I put brand new rotor, rotor cap, ignition pick up, igniter or the coil what u want to call it spark plugs as well as wires. I think was that there is a wire that goes wwhere the intake wire at that. It wasn't plug into nothing he ran the fans to it cause that's so call the only way he could turn them on n no they don't even turn on and that wire is not getting no power either. Can somebody help me thanks. That's y I think the computer got fry
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Knock box can advance and retard timing based on what the ECU tells it, it can advance timing when the motor is cold, the altitude is high, retard it to 12 degrees if the knock sensor goes off. Half the ignitor is in the distributor and the other half is in the metal box.

 

You have some dirty connections at the battery cables, the fuse link box and the fuse links.

 

more details:

http://www.b2600turbo.com/ECI%20System.htm

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/ignsequence.jpg

 

 

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Knock box can advance and retard timing based on what the ECU tells it, it can advance timing when the motor is cold, the altitude is high, retard it to 12 degrees if the knock sensor goes off. Half the ignitor is in the distributor and the other half is in the metal box.

 

You have some dirty connections at the battery cables, the fuse link box and the fuse links.

 

more details:

http://www.b2600turbo.com/ECI%20System.htm

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/ignsequence.jpg

thanks a lot that give me more to learn n a lot of help I ma look into that tomorrow n see what's up with the information thanks
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Sorry a lil off topic but can the knock box be eliminated properly when running a standalone computer like MegaSquirt, along with a few other useless wires?

 

Yes, all you need is a ignition box, module inside the distributor, and a tach adapter (and a different ECU)

 

Zack K.

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Niice and eliminate the knock sensor too right, I mean MegaSquirt runs all that.

 

Yes,the knock sensor too, and NO, the Megasquirt just gets a signal from whatever ignition box you get.The ignition runs "all that" depending on which one you get and how you set it up, although I believe you can set up the megasquirt to run ignition, but I'm not too sure about that, as I'm only running mine for fuel control only.

 

Zack K.

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Yes,the knock sensor too, and NO, the Megasquirt just gets a signal from whatever ignition box you get.The ignition runs "all that" depending on which one you get and how you set it up, although I believe you can set up the megasquirt to run ignition, but I'm not too sure about that, as I'm only running mine for fuel control only.

 

Zack K.

i think he means a standalone megasquirt.

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Cool what about the ETACS, the car's electrical systems need that one so don't remove right?

 

Right, that's a separate system from the ECU that actually runs the engine/fuel/ignition.

There is one pesky ground wire that needs to stay that's in the main ECU harness that does get used, along with oil press sender wire, and coolant temp sender wire.

 

Zack

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You can't get rid of the ETACS unit unless you plan on doing some rewiring of circuits and why would you? Its a convenience and its not at all related to the ECU. If anything else its nice to have delayed power on the windows. You need to have an ignition switched wire and the control relay has this even if you do have a different ECU. MS doesn't have the protection unless they have added that recently so that it kills the fuel pump if there is no tach signal but it does have an output wire that will hold the control relay on and keep the pump running as long as there is a tach signal to MS and when there isn't the fuel pump is shut down. As long as you wire in a relay for the same purpose but there is already a relay there. I'd not want to be in a car with a fuel pump that was only controlled by the ignition switch. This is a safety concern and it might be you in that crash that knocks you out and leaves the fuel pump running and pouring fuel on to your hot manifold from the cut lines and you that ends up burned alive all so you can say I don't need this control relay. STUPID.
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You can't get rid of the ETACS unit unless you plan on doing some rewiring of circuits and why would you? Its a convenience and its not at all related to the ECU. If anything else its nice to have delayed power on the windows. You need to have an ignition switched wire and the control relay has this even if you do have a different ECU. MS doesn't have the protection unless they have added that recently so that it kills the fuel pump if there is no tach signal but it does have an output wire that will hold the control relay on and keep the pump running as long as there is a tach signal to MS and when there isn't the fuel pump is shut down. As long as you wire in a relay for the same purpose but there is already a relay there. I'd not want to be in a car with a fuel pump that was only controlled by the ignition switch. This is a safety concern and it might be you in that crash that knocks you out and leaves the fuel pump running and pouring fuel on to your hot manifold from the cut lines and you that ends up burned alive all so you can say I don't need this control relay. STUPID.

 

Me and VICE have hijacked this thread :blush: The problem that this guy is having is that the car won't start when the fuel pump is hooked up normally, BUT DOES run when run directly when bypassing the stock wiring. All this ETACS talk is probably confusing him, it has nothing to do with his problem.

 

Sorry, Zack K.

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Me and VICE have hijacked this thread :blush: The problem that this guy is having is that the car won't start when the fuel pump is hooked up normally, BUT DOES run when run directly when bypassing the stock wiring. All this ETACS talk is probably confusing him, it has nothing to do with his problem.

 

Sorry, Zack K.

lol thank you. I'm just disappointed already threw all this. What I think cause this problem. Is the old owner. The day I got the car he connected the fan to a plug that run in the same place where the air flow sensor on the intake runs. Cause it was getting power to the ignition n now it doesn't even get power. I'm just hopping I didn't burn the ecu or eci. Any hp that got me really stressing. I need the car to run to go to work. Any help with the lil info I gave ya thanks everybody.
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Can anybody help me like I stayted before the day I got the car the old owner connected the fans to a blug that is with the air sensor ob the intake. They run on the harness the blus wasn't connected to nothing he sead it would work for the fans cause it rans with the ignition power when u turn the car on the fans came on. So now I don't even get power there either n the fans don't even come on. At

All. HELP ME OUT...... Thanks

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