Ford EDIS-4

[ESTurbo4]

So hey it's been a while since I posted last. I’m back to playing with the Quest again. Last I had changed from Megasquirt to Haltech Platinum Sport 1000. Right now it’s running on the distributor but it’s cross-firing so I’ll need a DIS setup. I bought Mookeeh’s crank pulley with the 36-1 wheel and bought all the junk to convert to EDIS thinking it would be all easy like it‘s says in the Megasquirt manual. Now some folks tell me not to trigger the EDIS system using the Ford EDIS-4 module. Haltech suggests hooking the crank sensor directly to the ECU and then trigger the coil from the ecu. However the Haltech cannot trigger the coil directly it must fire through a module of some sort. Figures a 400 dollar MS ecu has an internal igniter and a 1400 Haltech doesn‘t?!. So now I have all this Ford EDIS stuff that may be useless. I will use the crank sensor and pulley regardless of the final configuration, but I’ve got no idea which way to go. Is anyone here running this setup or know if the Haltech ECU can trigger the Ford module?

 

According to the Mega-Manuals they want you to hook up the EDIS-4 as Ford would have. Then run the ecu output from the module, which they call PIP, to the Megasquirt for triggering. Last, run the ignition/timing control wire from the MS to the module, which they call SAW, for timing control. It says that if the module doesn’t receive the correct signal from the ecu it locks the timing at 10° or limp mode. It would be nice to hook it up like that because the module does all the dirty work. However, I don’t know if the Haltech can produce this SAW signal.

 

So now I need some input. What should I do? I can trigger the Ford coil from the Haltech using two of those GM 4 pin HEI modules. Only problem is I’ll need to know what dwell is on the Ford EDIS coil and I doubt I’ll be able to locate that information. Unfortunately, the GM-DIS system found on almost all GM 4-cyls uses a 4 pulse wheel and the module, like Fords, does all the decoding. The GM-DIS coils would once again work but I still need some kind of module. Unless there is something I missed, I‘m lost. So I ask for guidance, please. Thanks for at least reading all that, lol.

[substock]

i'd say go with the haltach module(i can't remember if these will control the dwell for you)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Haltech-2-CH-ignitor-module-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19b7924ac0QQitemZ110454000320QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

i've seen them much cheaper then that on ebay before

 

this is from the megamanual when switching from edis to direct coil

EDIS4 replacement

36-1 wheel aligned the same as EDIS4 (see EDIS)

trigger angle=60

Timebased cranking and 10deg cranking angle.

trig A=3

trig B=21

Use two VB921 to drive the coils and set LED17,LED19 as spark outputs.

Spark output "inverted"

Dwell control with 5ms cranking, 4ms running and a 0.1ms min discharge.

 

[ESTurbo4]

Substock you're a genius. Based on your suggestion I began to search dual channel igniters and found that MSD makes one for about half the price of the Haltech. I ordered the MSD, the part number is 6302 for anyone else interested in this topic. So what I'll do now is let the Haltech PS 1000 receive the crank sensor input and then have it output coil control to the MSD igniter which replaces the EDIS-4 module. The great thing about the MSD is I can still use the EDIS-4 coil pack. Once I get the igniter and install everything I'll post how it all works out. Thanks Substock.

[substock]

i'm interested to know how that works out.

I know the haltech one is simply a bosch unit.

 

i know some mitsu's used the same type of ignitor, but i'm unsure of which vehicles and how many channels they use

[ESTurbo4]

Well Substock I have some good news and some bad. The good news is that all your info worked out great. The igniter from MSD works like a charm. So easy too hook up too only 5 wires. Two to the ECU's ignition output, two to the coil and one to the ground, done. Best of all, all my cross-firing is gone and it idles so smooth. I highly recommend this igniter for anyone deciding on what to do. The bad news, which I noted with much dismay, is that my oil pan gasket is leaking so now I gotta spend ten whole dollars on a new gasket, bummer.

[sellerfeller]

will this EDIS setup work with the factory ECU?

i have mis-fire or cross-firing problem.

[NotStock88]

will this EDIS setup work with the factory ECU?

i have mis-fire or cross-firing problem.

No

[dstar88]

hmm..im gona have to look at that msd igniter, ive been thinking of running a maga jolt light jr. though for ignition.. will they both work together?..or maybe just go all msd and ditch the mega jolt so i can be street legal still.?

 

 

 

 

Daniel

[ESTurbo4]

Sellerfeller - I remember before locking the distributor it was all gummed up. It happened to me on a few quests I had. To fix it you got to take the rotor off then take that little bolt in the center of the distributor out, clean the shaft and the mechanical advancing mechanism. Lube it with some thin grease like dielectric grease and reassemble. You don't have to remove the distributor for that either and it literally takes 10 minutes. If you are mis-firing on the factory ignition than that is most likely your problem. Like I said I had it happen to me a few times. Also check your vac advance, they are old and the diaphragms tend to dry rot. Boost will blow a hole in it, sometimes the vacuum advance will hold vacuum but will loose pressure depending on the nature of the leak. Many mighty vac testers can also apply pressure to things so try checking that. If your car does a quick backfire or surge at around 3000 rpm then it's safe to say your vac advance is bad.

 

Dstar88 - If you're going to get a Mega-Jolt then I wouldn't use a MSD igniter I would just use the EDIS4 module. It does most of the work for you, calculates dwell and calibrates the wheel. All you need to do is set your timing table. I would have went that way but the Haltech I’m using does not communicate with the EDIS module. I have a brand new EDIS 4 module I bought for my conversion but couldn't use it. So if you decide to go that way and want it I sell it to you cheap, 25 bucks.

[sellerfeller]

replaced the distributor with a rebuilt one from rockauto.com because the old one had shaft play. vacuum advance is new as well.

the nose switch on the ISC i noticed yesterday is flaky. random off-on-off-on while i decelerate - evident in wide-band readings. i have another ISC/MPS i'm in process of testing just now.

 

my car sat for a while before i got it so the wiring harness is plagued with corrosion. the more of it i replace, the better it runs. been driving me crazy for the last year but diligence is finally paying off. i have a megasquirt1 that i got with modded magna intake off ebay. though i'm planning to go megasquirt2 asap and switch to EDIS4.

 

i'll need of an EDIS4 module so if it doesn't sell to Dstar88, i'll take it for $25

 

this is my daily driver so i need everything together before attempting the swap. thanks for the help.

Edited May 29, 2010 by sellerfeller

[sellerfeller]

Sellerfeller - I remember before locking the distributor it was all gummed up. It happened to me on a few quests I had. To fix it you got to take the rotor off then take that little bolt in the center of the distributor out, clean the shaft and the mechanical advancing mechanism. Lube it with some thin grease like dielectric grease and reassemble. You don't have to remove the distributor for that either and it literally takes 10 minutes. If you are mis-firing on the factory ignition than that is most likely your problem. Like I said I had it happen to me a few times. Also check your vac advance, they are old and the diaphragms tend to dry rot. Boost will blow a hole in it, sometimes the vacuum advance will hold vacuum but will loose pressure depending on the nature of the leak. Many mighty vac testers can also apply pressure to things so try checking that. If your car does a quick backfire or surge at around 3000 rpm then it's safe to say your vac advance is bad.

 

changing the coil didn't calm the wild rpm signal. the rebuilt distributor may not have a new vacuum advance as i thought... car does surge a little around 2800 to 3000 rpm. did road test with vac adv unplugged and not much change in drivability. it does though run like a bat out of heck at WOT either way. i've got a new vac adv from the old distributor that i'll give a try tomorrow. maybe i'll learn.... shouldn't have replaced the unit unless it was proven bad.

thanks again ESTurbo4

[dstar88]

 

Dstar88 - If you're going to get a Mega-Jolt then I wouldn't use a MSD igniter I would just use the EDIS4 module. It does most of the work for you, calculates dwell and calibrates the wheel. All you need to do is set your timing table. I would have went that way but the Haltech I’m using does not communicate with the EDIS module. I have a brand new EDIS 4 module I bought for my conversion but couldn't use it. So if you decide to go that way and want it I sell it to you cheap, 25 bucks.

 

 

ahh ok, cool. but do you happen to know if it does multi spark, or one spark each revolution or what ever? supposedly my friend said that ill have problems come smog time due to EDIS being multi spark or something like that., i know megajolt light jr. is not c.a.r.b. approved or smog legal too, so thats why im thinking of also just getting the MSD stuff cuz i can get away with that.

 

 

 

 

Daniel

[substock]

i forgot all about this post until today.

glad that worked out for you.

 

dstar, edis is a wasted spark setup

[dstar88]

ehh...maybe my brain is failing to process what exactly wasted spark means. if you dont mind, can you please explain a bit.

 

 

i just pretty much need to know if that when, the number 1,2,3, and 4 pistons come up on their compression strokes. will the EDIS system send just one spark to the number 1,2,3 and 4 spark plugs.? or will the EDIS system send multiple sparks, like 2 or more sparks to the spark plug to help ignite the air fuel mixture on the pistons compression strokes?

 

 

 

 

Daniel

[substock]

the ford edis coil pack is setup so that both 1 & 4 fire at the same time and them 2&3 next