snowbird Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Proud to say I just picked up an 89 Conquest TSi, widebody 5 speed with 72,000 original miles for $600. Body is rough, Ive learned quickly body parts are hard to find. I need the front air dam, right fender, and the right parking light/turn signal corner that is part of the grille. The car is totally gutted, but totally stock and purrs like a kitten. I will be doing my research on this engine but I plan on keeping the car reliable and low HP. I have left over talon parts, and I will be using the 14b with of course a custom downpipe and a 1G DSM air meter, BSE kit, PS delete, emissions delete, ARP headstuds, new headgasket and all other engine gaskets, a new clutch, and whatever fuel mods Ill need to run the 14b at 15lbs. If I cant run it safely on minor fuel mods Ill run it at what I can without having to add a fuel controller. Im supposedly suppose to have adjustable suspension, as Id like to lower it soley for looks, but I cant see how to do it, maybe because its a button and my interior is gone? Anyhow, just lookin to make it a mild, reliable car for fun as it is my 5th vehicle currently. My name is Joe, and I am looking forward to searching through archives here and learning my path to my goal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowbird Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 While I do the head gasket I really wanna remove the jets in the head that fail, but cant seem to find the Eliminator kit for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bag-O-Chips Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 welcome to the community! I was a former DSM owner too. If you were ever on DSMtuners you'll find me as SolidboostTsi. As far as replacement engine parts are concerned, DAD is the man for the parts. His site (enginemachineservice.com) has everything you will ever need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Welcome to the site and congrats on being the proud owner of one of these cars. There is very very large amount of info on here about every little tiny aspect of these cars as well as very knowledgeable members that are more than willing to help you out. Allen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowbird Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Thanks guys, and I have seen the DAD member mentioned many times. Ill keep you in mind Bag-O-Chips, Im Snowbird over at DSMtuners as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowbird Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Whats bad is I just realized DADs shop is only 45 minutes from me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotrodTSi Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Whats bad is I just realized DADs shop is only 45 minutes from me That's a good thing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowbird Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 That's a good thing!! Shoulda said bad a * *, it typoed me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Jet valves only fail when engines are allowed to burn massive amounts of oil for a long time and they crust up and stick otherwise the hole is still in the head and now you are eliminating what swirls the incoming air and cools off the spark plug tip and cleans the air arround it not to mention the cooling effect another open tube stuck in the head can do how a spark plug removes heat. Dirty jet valves are very simple to clean but I bet yours are just fine and only need inspecting because of the age of your engine. The valve seals may be hard and needing replaced and at that point the rocker assembly is off so its no big deal to unscrew a jet valve and look at it. The hydraulic lifters that were in the car when new, hard to say what's in there should be cleaned and its the same procedure as used in a g63/4 engine. Save your money from those totally unnecessary ARP head studs, this isn't a DSM engine. If you expect to exceed the red line of the engine and try to spin the car in circles from the front wheels then I'd eliminate the balance shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowbird Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Jet valves only fail when engines are allowed to burn massive amounts of oil for a long time and they crust up and stick otherwise the hole is still in the head and now you are eliminating what swirls the incoming air and cools off the spark plug tip and cleans the air arround it not to mention the cooling effect another open tube stuck in the head can do how a spark plug removes heat. Dirty jet valves are very simple to clean but I bet yours are just fine and only need inspecting because of the age of your engine. The valve seals may be hard and needing replaced and at that point the rocker assembly is off so its no big deal to unscrew a jet valve and look at it. The hydraulic lifters that were in the car when new, hard to say what's in there should be cleaned and its the same procedure as used in a g63/4 engine. Save your money from those totally unnecessary ARP head studs, this isn't a DSM engine. If you expect to exceed the red line of the engine and try to spin the car in circles from the front wheels then I'd eliminate the balance shafts. Good info in there. I guess Ill just clean the jet valves then, I didnt know it was better to keep them, and Ill do the valve stem seals as part of the refresh, you say its like a 4G63 head, so can I just put a paperclip into the lifter to hit that sweet spot and depress them, or just put them in a vise? I hear you on the head studs, I figured since I planned to use a Felpro gasket Id use them, since that was the trick to using the Felpro on the DSM, Is this still not necessary if I only plan on 15psi Max? And as far as the Balance Shafts, I dont plan on exceed the redline, just thought Id do it since Ill have the engine out, only because I did it on my Talons and was familiar with it, I was gonna ask if it was necessary to port anything in the oil pump at the same time to help the higher oil pressure flow. But when I did my DSM BS's I also had the whole rotating assembly balanced afterwards, but at only 72,000 original miles on this engine I didnt want to disassembly the block because I love to keep engines untouched from the factory. Sorry for the bombardery of questions, but I have a good general idea of what I want to do within reason. Its had to search for all this info sometimes, and I plan on having this all done in a couple weeks. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Shoulda said bad a * *, it typoed me!Welcome to the site!! Sounds like you got a good deal on the car if it runs well. Please mind our word filters here though, haha, no matter how fortunate you are to be close to Dad(Randy). -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMNDSTAR87 Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Welcome to the club----gig out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 you say its like a 4G63 head, so can I just put a paperclip into the lifter to hit that sweet spot and depress them, or just put them in a vise? A paperclip might work yes and there's a set of steps you need to follow when adjusting the jet valves when using hydraulic lifters too. Before you adj. the jet valves the engine needs fired up to set the lifter heights then you can adjust the jet valves. If you adjusted the jet valve on a collapsed or dead lifter then the lifter pumped up that would not let the jet valve close so that's half the reason people say they crack heads and come up with some its the different metal theory that caused it and I guess they don't have steel spark plugs like the rest of the world that would also crack heads if that were even remotely true. Here's your lifter cleaning steps. TSB from Mitsubishi : lash cleaning.pdf and a little more about jet valves and a warning just what I already said about adjustment: http://www.b2600turbo.com/jet_valves.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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