rjf

I am interested in the turbo if it is in OK shape - still have it? how much? email rjfathome@yahoo.com

Do you have a good turbo for a flatty?? If so email rjfathome@yahoo.com

Looking for a turbo for a NON-intercooled StarQuest If you have a good one, email me at rjfathome@yahoo.com

I am looking for one of the small turbos used on the non-intercooled cars email rjfathome@yahoo.com

I used the MLS gasket with a copper spray sealer. Trying to get the best of both worlds. It has been fine so far, but it has been less than a year.

To replace that frame rail is no big deal. If you can find the actual part, fine. But if you cannot, the welder can use some heavy gauge C channel. What may be a big deal is if the frame rail looks like that, what else is rusted? Check bottom of front fenders near door, bottom of rears near door, rears at the top of the arch etc.

I think that either the 3550 or the T56 are excellent options. The T56 has an extra gear and is stronger, but the 3550 seems to be much more plentiful and cheaper. I do not know how much folks paid for their units, but what little shopping around I have done seems to tell me that low mileage T56's seem to be around $1500+ while low mileage 3550's seem to be $500 - $1000. Am I way off base on this? What kind of prices are folks seeing for these trannies in your area?

If you read all of the tech talk at their site, and look at the pictures, the E3 plug seems to be similar in design to the Bosch +4. Both have this multi pronged anode that does not cover the center of the core. Actually the Bosch +2s also have these features. So is it worth twice the price of a Bosch+4 ? I do not know, but it would probably take some dyno runs to tell the difference.

Well a little more oil can't hurt I guess, but I thought that it was the oil bath that the cam swam in that lubed the lobes. If the intake rockers do not have this oil hole, then it probably is not a problem. Consider that the intake rockers have more work to do with the bigger valve to move, along with moving the extra jet valve. One of the points of having the roller rocker is to cut friction. Are the folks that are running the rollers having cam lobe wear problems? If so, then maybe this is worth it. But if not, don't fix something that ain't broke. Another thing to consider, every drop of oil you bleed off to oil the lobes is a drop of oil you do not have to oil the arm to shaft bearing surface, and in the engines I have torn down that surface it usually more worn than the lobes.

Well this thread has been going for quite awhile. As I mentioned months ago, most runner length calulators recommend a runner length around 15", but those calculators are really set for non-turbo'd engines. On the other hand many Tubo publications show manifolds with very short runners, but most of those are set up for the drag strip. Most of those engines are high rev units, the G54B has a 98mm stroke and although it can rev well past 6K with mods, it is not really happy up there, nor I suspect long lived. Then some folks adhere to the therory that each runner should have a volume at least equal to a single cyl displacement. If this project is to be successful you must decide if you will sell more if it is a manifold for the drags, or for street/SOLO2. Also the idea to make a manifold that can be used either as an MPI unit, or, with the bungs blocked off, as a TBI unit is a good one. This would give you a wider audience. If this unit is to be used on the street, some consideration will have to be given to adding ports, that can be blocked off, for the various vacuum hoses and for the EGR needed for smog in some states. Also it should clear the distributer and the AC unit if it is for the street.

I am here to cheer you on. As your friend is tied into the racing scene, he is probably up on all this, but when I run several of the intake runner length calculators that are available on the internet, I get runner lengths of between 13 to 15 inches for our engine, for max torque at 6000 rpm, for the 3rd wave, and assuming a 284 cam. The best length for the 1st and 2nd wave are even longer. So, if someone else is getting a better number from some calculation lets hear it, especially if it is a calculator for a turbo'd engine. I notice that most of the manifolds out there have runner lengths much shorter than what the calculators recommend. Maybe folks are saying, this thing is turbo'd, screw the length, make it an easy fit. Just guessing.

One of the design points of Oscar's kit was to work with the stock 16" wheels. As I recall Oscar said the 3000 GT calipers were to bulky to fit.

Have you considered cutting the bit of metal off of the header panel that is below the lights. This would reduce the shrouding effect. Just square off the ends of the header (front fascia).

Great work Derek - How much of the beam is shrouded by the being sort of in a tunnel? Can you move the light farther forward to reduce shrouding? Have you considered cutting the "lids" to the pop-ups and welding them to the hood to fill in the hole above the lamps? Keep up the good work -

This thread seems a bit strange to me. There are a lot of engines that make more power than the G54B, and if you wish to swap one in then I hope it works for you. But you must consider the "wholeness" of the car. Almost any inline 6 is going to be heavier and worse it it heavier out front. It puts even more weight out in front of the front axle. And from a packaging standpoint it is a disaster. From my point of view the best candidates are those which fit well and weigh less. Of those the G63 and G64 are the most common swaps. Some of the V6's are good candidates, especially the alloy ones like the Nissan VQ series. Another possible candidate is the GM "Shortstar" V6, these are used a lot in sand rails and have some decent aftermarket parts. With the Shortstar you can use GM trannies. Another candidate I would consider is the new GM 5cyl, this is llight and would fit, but has few aftermarket parts. So if you want to graft an inline 6 in there, have a good time, but do not hit the brakes too hard, you might stand it on it's nose.