polarisman14 Posted May 28, 2015 Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 (edited) I have seen a few of these threads but none of them have been all-encompassing and most of them have been just opinions, not hard facts. What I've got here is a list of the engine and drivetrain components, and I would like you guys to shoot out some concrete numbers on their failure points, HP/TQ if possible. -Engine Block-Head-Connecting Rods-Crankshaft-Pistons/Rings-Clutch-Flywheel-Transmission-Drive Shaft/U Joints-Rear Axles-Intake (TBI)-Intake (MPI)-Exhaust Manifold-Exhaust System-Fuel Pump (stock) For the engine parts, I would also like to know not just the failure point, but where it becomes a bottleneck in the system. Maybe it can become a sticky if it has enough good info, and we keep the bickering to a minimum--I'd like to keep this to facts if at all possible. Thanks guys! --Matt-- Here is my personal experience, running 22-23psi on a Turbonetics 11021-BB Turbo with .83AR (close to a 60-1 but not quite that large IIRC) Engine OK, stockDrive shaft/axles OK, stockIntake, MPI not limitingExhaust 3" fullExhaust manifold treadstoneFuel pump stock, running 60psi, 75lb/hr injectors--out of fuel, that's why I am not running 25-26psi (where the turbo would run out of efficiency)Head-NJVCam-TEP Street/StripCon rods, crank, pistons/rings-stockClutch ACT stage 4 6-puckFlywheel resurfaced stockTransmission stock w/strengthening trans panRear axles stock Estimate 300whp-325 based on scott's assessment when we were done tuning but have not put it on the track or on a dyno. Eventually I want to go to the wiseco or JE pistons for the sole reason of higher compression ratio (faster spool on less boost, less wear on turbo and engine components) along with an aftermarket pump and bigger injectors and chase another 50-75whp but want to make sure I will be safe in the 300-350whp neighborhood for a couple years while that is being built. Edited May 28, 2015 by polarisman14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted May 28, 2015 Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 I think its going to be hard to get set numbers on some of the stuff you've asked but things like I broke X part with X hp will definitely be nice. I'm all for compiling data together for future reference, I sadly don't have much to add for broken parts due to horsepower lol. Not yet anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Lol yeah me either. The other thing, even if it isn't what HP things broke at, is something like Notstock88 where he is running MPI on totally stock internals (upgraded head and cam, but stock long block) with x miles at x hp. His build is what helped inspire mine and to stay with the G54B instead of doing a swap so I'd like to see if anyone besides him had similar experiences. I know Technology did a bunch with his MPI setup and made a lot of power so I'd like to see where he's at as well. Roll call! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted May 28, 2015 Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Well Andrew a.k.a Technology lives up in Minnesotta and doesn't currently have a quest but I know he wants one again. His setup was very cool and geez was it fast. If I was to go mpi I'd follow the same roadmap he layed out as I think its a great way of doing it. He used an engine harness from a dsm, dsmLink, dsm injectors (initially), and some other stuff along with an mpi manifold of some sort. He told me about how using the dsm engine harness, injectors, and stock ecu he got his car running with no tuning. Apparently the ecu has close enough tables that it can run the g54b right out of the gate. Not overly well but it runs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Yeah mine is currently running pretty well tuned by scott87star on MS2 with a FIP hurricane IM and ford 65mm tb, 2.5" charge pipes through a 4" *DM IC and 3" inlet pipe for the turbo. I'm just making sure that the amount of boost I am currently running is OK and manageable for the long term and want others to be able to use this thread for reference as well. I'm running ARP head studs, stock head gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted May 28, 2015 Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 (edited) How much boost are you running? The ARP head studs will definitely help you with keeping your car together under high boost but overall if you have a good tune, your air fuel ratio is right, and your exhaust gas temps are good then you should be fine. Really from what I understand once you have a good tune and the car is running well your next limiters are the amount of boost the engine can keep "sealed in", not running into limitations of your fuel system, and heat management to keep detonation at bay. Yea that is a simplified look at the subject but overall that is stuff to worry about. Oh and the efficiency range of your turbo. Edited May 28, 2015 by speedyquest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Yeah I am currently running low 20s for boost on a Turbonetics 11021-BB turbo which is rated for upward of 500hp. I figure 400whp is about all I can squeeze out of it but with that on a higher than stock compression ratio it should spool decent. It's a ball bearing turbo but it is pretty big so it's a little laggy with the stock CR. I'm not too worried about the detonation as I tune it on 91 and run 93 in it whenever possible and charge temps are relatively low, fueling is on the rich side but not overkill--maybe 11.5:1 at WOT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted May 28, 2015 Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Let's start with my car is not driven year around but do daily all summer long and have done near 1000 mile road trips EIP RACE CANNON FIC 650cc inj 78mm Tb JDL EHX MANIFOLD A1000 FUEL PUMP 8AN FEED & 6AN RETURN ELECTROMOTIVE TEC2 STANDALONE LC1 WIDEBAND WELDED STOCK MOTOR MOUNTS 2.5 " INTERCOOLER PIPES TIAL 50MM BOV 4 " K&N INTAKE FULLY BUILT CLEARWATER NJV HEAD 2MM OVER/LS1 VALVES DUAL SPRING SET-UP 284 CAM MECHANICAL ARP HEAD STUDS AJUSE HEADGASKET TORQUED TO 100 FOOT POUNDS 8.0:1 WEISCO STOCK RODS BSEK HX40 BILLET 6 / 12 .70AR T3 BEP HOUSING LOW BOOST IS 17PSI AND HIGH IS 30 PSI FIDANZA FLYWHEEL & ACT 2900 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Bump, any more input? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 problem is so much variation from climate to tune, to fuel grade, to quality of aftermarket parts, to condition of parts to even be able to determine any of this.we do have some rough numbers, like the stock rods start to stretch at ~500hp, so we are told to assume Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 I hate to say it, but this is going to be another thread of opinions. For example, you can actually flow test the intake to know it's usable limits. You can measure the output of a fuel pump and compare it to the injector size and rate. However when it comes to engines, good luck with anything remotely real. Especially when there was pages of debate on what oil to use yet very few people even sent out oil samples to a lab for an analysis, Transmissions for example, all opinion. You'll never get facts. Sure there's a dude running 400hp through his and it works as of today. However, you also have me. I blew my km 5speed in a 105hp montero. The mileage was 180k. So for me putting that tranny in a starquest at 180hp is already way beyond the breaking point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Here's another one--the cooling system, specifically the radiator. I've always been told these cars run hot but I never have any issues with mine. Granted, mine has a 180* thermostat in it and is currently wired for the fans to be on all the time, but the last SQ I had was just fine and not set up with any aftermarket parts. The best I could do with that is just running water wetter with a 60/40 mix of water and coolant but not sure if that will stand up the -20 degree temps we sometimes get during the winter. I'd hate to crack the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 I run the 195 t stat. No cooling problems. Most of the time it's lack of maintanance.what good is a radiator that's clogged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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